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June 6th, 2011, 22:57 | #1 |
V2 mechbox motor can't turn the gears
SO!
I have a VFC Scar-l and I had a spring upgrade done last week to a M110, had it chronied at just over 350 at the Picton Zombie game I full autoed the residual bb's in the mag no problem. I didn't use it again that night/morning. I went to break down the gun for my post game clean and lube and I noticed the piston is retracted so that it's visible in the air feed port (on the side of the receiver) and thepiston sticking out the back area and the spring is pretty compressed. I put the gun back together and hook up a battery and attempt to fire it the gun won't cycle. I can feel the motor torque in the grip and hear a quick noise from the motor but that's it. My question are: 1.) Is there another way to cycle the gears without the motor disengage the spring. 2.) Should i be shitting bricks? and 3.) Are there any known fixes? Thanks!! Ozone
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“We sleep safe in our beds because rough men stand ready in the night to visit violence on those who would do us harm.” George Orwell To those Rough men... Thank You. |
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June 6th, 2011, 23:09 | #2 |
If you have the gearbox out, use a paper clip and bend a L at the end like a hook. Use a flat head and turn the gears slightly and use the hook to pull the ARL. This should decompress the spring. If the motor can't turn the gears to fire, you're battery might be low. Try a fully charged one or another battery.
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Please email me as I'm not on ASC too often. Custom Build | Upgrades | Repairs | Maintenance Contact: ghostgunwork@gmail.com / Private Message Last edited by HKGhost; June 6th, 2011 at 23:17.. |
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June 6th, 2011, 23:11 | #3 |
A good mini battery or a large battery would be able to cycle the mechbox.
If not there's something wrong with it and it probably has to be taken apart anyway (which is the third option to unwind the spring/gears) |
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June 6th, 2011, 23:29 | #4 |
Thanks for the quick responses
The batteries were fully charged at first I tried to do it with an 8.4 then a 9.6. I'll pull the mechbox out and try the to release the ARL. Before I do that should I need a lot of torque/pressure to release the switch/turn the gears? Last thing I want is to strip the gears/do something boneheaded. Also I managed to get power to the motor outside the gun, by touching the contacts on the stock against the lower reciever without the upper, so I can see what's going on and it looks like the gears are trying to pull the piston back even more when it should be done cycling. I'm asking for confirmation that messing with the ARL help in this case? Again last think I want is to F**k this up... obviously. Thanks for the quick replies again!
__________________
“We sleep safe in our beds because rough men stand ready in the night to visit violence on those who would do us harm.” George Orwell To those Rough men... Thank You. |
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June 6th, 2011, 23:35 | #5 |
you won't need a lot of pressure to turn the gears slightly. Hook the ARL first, then use the flat head to turn it just enough so you can pull the ARL away from the notch. If you slip, repeat the process until the spring is decompressed. You won't damage anything by doing this.
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Please email me as I'm not on ASC too often. Custom Build | Upgrades | Repairs | Maintenance Contact: ghostgunwork@gmail.com / Private Message |
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June 6th, 2011, 23:37 | #6 | |
Quote:
I keep an 11.1v lipo handy for such tasks. If it doesn't release the piston, then I usually can say there is something wrong. |
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