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What gun to start off with ?

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Old September 7th, 2011, 00:07   #16
Eeyore
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eluder View Post
WOW!
thanks Kuro_Neko, lot's of useful stuff for a noob like me.
And he writes it each and every time.
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eeyore, the more I look at your avatar, the more I find it looks like a vagina...
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Old September 7th, 2011, 00:08   #17
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Real Sword T-56 series is a fantastic AK build, 1:1 dimensions and weight. But Make you buy an better quality hop-up bucking to squeeze that extra range the gun can offer. The stock bucking is fine, just not great. And if you plan to get any type of AK mag other than the Real Sword brand, have to sand down the mag catch on the mags a bit to fit into the gun. Not too much work compare to other AEGs to get the gun to it's greatness!
Good luck on your new AK!
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Old September 7th, 2011, 00:27   #18
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Originally Posted by Eeyore View Post
And he writes it each and every time.
LOL he does. He does though have a good point I have the CA m15a4 TC and love it. Hasn't given me a single problem and I've shot quite a few rounds out of it. I'd highly recommend the CA's for their build quality internally externally, ability to add accessories and just for looks and authenticity they're great. The full stock allows for the large battery that never goes dead. Especially handy for 24 HR OPs. If your going for an AK build the Real Swords are great quality/performance models.
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Old September 7th, 2011, 02:18   #19
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I stand by Real Sword products on all levels. Real gun steel means you will NOT be messing it up through any neglect and abuse. It's accuracy stock, right out of the box, is absolutely incredible. As much as I can tell you about how pleased I am with my unit, all I can tell you is that I absolutely hate AK-47's. I think they are ugly as sin, not ergonomic at all, and in a sport where you can dress up an M4 to be as cool looking as you want... There is no reason to be using the Somali weapon of choice.

But I do. I use it almost every time I do an outdoor game. I do this because it is one of the best guns I own.
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Old September 7th, 2011, 07:02   #20
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deagles and a sniper. 50 calz are best

Seriosuly though, Realsword is a serious contender, I've owned a number of AEGs, then sold em off and have a WE C8, looking to get an AEG again simply for cold weather use or when I want to be lazy with ammo, Realsword is what I plan to get. Worked on a few and used a few, great guns.
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Like seriously dude. The incredible lack of common sense in the question could be scientifically investigated for evidence of a black hole.
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Old September 7th, 2011, 09:09   #21
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ummm.. sorry for hijacking.. but can anyone tell me is WE a good brand? I found some surplus stores selling this brand but I am totally noob to AEGs so I am not sure if they worth the money..
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Old September 7th, 2011, 09:36   #22
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WE doesn't make AEG..... they make Gas Blow Back aka GBB
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I know that isn't really what you asked, but it's the internet, and I like to type things that don't matter.
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Old September 7th, 2011, 10:35   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eluder View Post
WOW!
thanks Kuro_Neko, lot's of useful stuff for a noob like me.
You're welcome, happy to help.

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Originally Posted by MaciekA View Post
p.s: Kuro_Neko : I gotta say I admire your friendly and detailed approach with newcomers. You're a machine! ( http://goo.gl/LZAaR ).
=^_^=

It's a shame most newbies can't seem to use google as well as you, otherwise I might not have to post so often.

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Originally Posted by SqueezeBox View Post
thanks everyone especially Kuro_Neko! this is all new to me but sounds fck*in amazing:P i originally wanted to start off with a sniper but my friends convinced me not to so ak it is, price wise im willing to spend 600-700$ on a sick ass gun!, then slowly start buying gear.
You're welcome. $600-700 is a great budget for a gun. Glad to see a newbie with a realistic idea of the cost of this sport.

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Originally Posted by SqueezeBox View Post
your gun look insane!!
Thanks. =^_^= Even with the battery in the stock it's alittle on the front heavy side. On the plus side, with that m203, other members of my group are pretty leery of charging any position I'm holding.

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And he writes it each and every time.
You bet I do, every single time. =^_^=
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Old September 7th, 2011, 16:06   #24
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Kuro, I applaud you for your efforts. That was a lot of text! O.O I will never have the patience to type that much for a simple question.

JG S-System with a better hop-up and 6.01 madbull tightbore barrel - $250 total and shoots as far and accurately with a .25 as my mate's Systema MP5 does with a .2
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Old September 7th, 2011, 17:24   #25
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I personally wouldn't recommend getting a Tokyo Marui, but the VFC or Real Sword.
Reason that I don't like TM's much is that they have plastic bodies, to upgrade the fps you need to upgrade other GB parts, and they're expensive. For a similar price you could get a G&P.
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Old September 8th, 2011, 05:07   #26
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Originally Posted by Kuro_Neko View Post
If you could state how much you're willing to spend on the various parts of kit we would be able to advise you better.

Manufacturer is generally more important then the style. Generally all airsoft aeg's work the same so how it looks like outside is up to you. Though the advice in the Airsoft Newbie Buying Guide about styles is good. Generally ak47, m16/m4 or mp5 are good starter gun styles due to the availability of accessories and upgrades.

Sniper rifles are very much *not* recommended for newcomers for a variety of reasons. The foremost among them is price; a good accurate sniper rifle is going to cost you a minimum of a thousand dollars, probably more like fifteen hundred or more. Second, unlike in real steel, an airsoft sniper rifle doesn't have much more range then an upgraded aeg and a considerably slower fire rate. When you can only fire one round every couple of seconds and your opponent can fire sixty is the same time frame, considerable skill is required. Otherwise you'll just get slaughtered every game, which is no fun.

I'll add my weight to the argument of cheap vs quality. Get the highest quality gun you can afford, you'll thank yourself in the long run. Upgrading a low grade gun to match a high grade gun almost always costs considerably more then simply buying the high grade gun in the first place. Not to mention having your gun break down on you in mid game due to cheap parts sucks rocks.

Another thing to consider is resale value. You don't want to spend too much cause you're not sure you'll stick with it? That's actually a good reason *to* get a high grade gun rather then not to. You spend $600 on a Classic Army gun and, provided you've taken decent care of it, you have a very good chance of recouping most if not all of that $600 back. On the other hand, the classifieds are continuously flooded with people trying to offload Aftermath guns with no luck.

Please keep in mind that the prices listed below are rough. I've seen each of the listed at the price given but that was months ago and I don't religiously follow pricing trends. They should be used as a guideline only.

For $200, the best you could manage is Aftermath (CYMA rebrand) stuff. Both the Broxa (full stock MP5) and the Kraken (AK47) are decent bargain basement guns, about $160 or so each. Stay away from Aftermath's Kirenex or Knight (both M4 variants) and the Lycaon (collapsible stock MP5) though, not a good rep.

If you're willing to go up to $300 you could get a JG. Yeah JG's are China clones but they're getting quite respectable nowadays. JG's M4 runs about $290. You could get one of the G&G M4's for about $340. G&G is the cheapest of the midgrade guns. $400-$450 would get you an ICS which is a slightly higher end midgrade gun. $500-$600 would get you a G&P, there's some debate on whether this is the lowest of the higrade guns or if it should rank higher. Either way they make nice guns.

If you can afford it, highgrade guns such as Tokyo Marui or Classic Army are the way to go. They're going to run you $600-$700. Though if the M4/M16 style is what you want then I'd recommend staying away from stock TM's, the barrel wobble and creaking are pretty bad on the stock TM M4/M16's (yes the new TM M4/M16's have fixed this problem, but the bulk of the ones in country are the old ones so best to just avoid them for now).

I did extensive research and settled on the Tactical Carbine version of the Classic Army M15A4 (basically a full stock m4) as my first gun. If an Armalite is what you're looking for then I think it's the best of all possible versions. You have the shortened M4 carbine barrel, which makes you less likely to smack your barrel off something when turning quickly, combined with the full stock which houses a large battery. Small batteries don't have near the run time of a large battery, not to mention that the reinforced slip ring (the ring that keeps the fore-grip on) is really strong. While this is mostly a good thing and a big step up over CA's previous M15 versions, it makes changing small batteries in the field very difficult if not impossible.

CA's M15A4 series in general is a big step up over their previous versions and as far as stock armalites go they're probably the best. All metal where the real steel version is, the plastic parts where the real steal version is plastic are made of high quality enhanced nylon fiber rather then abs for great texture and feel. Classic Army has a deal with Armalite so you get all the proper markings. Plus that deal also goes to show the quality of the manufacture, Armalite wouldn't put their name on a shoddy product.

Internally the gearbox is reinforced metal and all the gears are metal as well. It fires hotter stock then Tokyo Marui's as well, firing at 300-320 fps where your average TM only fires 280-300 fps.

All in all this is a great starter gun if you can afford it. Because it's all metal you don't have to worry nearly as much about breaking it and you won't get any of the wobble or creaking that is infamous in stock TM M4/M16's. Unfortunately affording it is the biggest problem, they're not cheap. For reference I got my CA M15A4 from the classifieds, upgraded with a bunch of Systema internals to fire 390fps, for $600 shipped which was a great price.

As you can probably tell, I'm a big fan of Classic Army. One thing to keep in mind about Classic Army is they now have two lines, a proline and a sportline. Originally they were easy to tell apart because the proline had the metal body and the sportline had a plastic body but recently CA has been releasing their sportlines with metal bodies. The price tag should still allow you to easily tell the difference, the sportline being $300-400ish and the proline never being cheaper then $500, usually more like $600 or more but it's still something to keep in mind. All the pros that I went over above were regarding the proline model. The sportline model has cheaper everything internally and externally.

There's alot of people that will expound the virtues of G&P as well. And I'll admit the externals of G&P are very nice, easily on par with CA, in some cases better. The reason why I don't say G&P over CA though is much the same reason why people weren't big fans of CA up until a few years ago: their quality control for the internals is not the greatest. That means a fair number of lemons. CA got a handle on this a few years ago and they've been making great strides in terms of their rep ever since, but G&P isn't quite there yet. This is simply my personal opinion and there are many people that would likely disagree with me, but it's something to keep in mind. ICS is about a cheap a gun as you can go and still get full metal out of the box. One thing to remember about ICS is they like to go their own way internally, so upgrading them inside will be more difficult then other brands. And needless to say it's not in the same league as CA or G&P. It's what someone on a budget but determined to get full metal would aim for. I should probably give TM some love here as well: Due to Japanese laws TM guns fire alittle cooler then most others and their externals are going to be almost entirely abs plastic. But *nothing* beats TM for internal reliability. You leave a TM stock internally and it will last for literally decades.

One of the perks of going with an M16/M4 variant is that mags are dead easy to come by and dirt cheap. You can get Star brand mags for like $5 a mag or less, plastic yeah but sturdy none the less (Star is also one of the few brands that makes realcaps too). Metal mags will run you a fair bit more, $15 to $30 a mag. There's no real reason to go with metal over plastic for mags except looks/realism. Though of course if you're going to go hicap then you might as well get metal ones. As to Brands, TM and CA make good mags. I've heard pretty good stuff about MAG brand mags as well. King Arms not so much, especially for M4/M16 mags. Star is always a good affordable fallback too.

Some people say you need to shell out for batteries, mags, camo, chargers and ammo in the begining. Most of that isn't necessary right off the hop. The stock battery will do you for awhile. Most of the guns come with a hicap (high capacity (300-600 rounds)) mag that will also do for awhile. I do agree that a good charger would be a sound initial investment, but not a total requirement, especially if you plan to get a good battery down the road and don't care if the cheap wall charger fries your stock battery. Camo isn't really required in the beginning either, just some dark clothes. Ammo, yeah obviously a requirement but even good ammo (BB Bastard) only costs $10 for two thousand rounds.

So truly, all you really need to start is the gun, a bag or two of ammo, good eye protection (which will run you between $30 and $50) and decent footwear (combat boots are the best but $40 hiking boots from walmart will do in a pinch). That said, if you can afford it then it all helps. Camo would cost about $100, a chest rig or vest would cost another $100. A good loadout of mags, even the cheap Star mags, are going to cost at least $50. A good charger is at least another $50, with another $50 for a good battery. A sidearm is another thing that people like to have but isn't really necessary. A decent sidearm would cost you between $250 and $350. Probably another $100-150 for a duty belt, a holster, a sling, gloves and a misc pouch or two.

Sidearms aren't really required right away so if you're on a limited budget then hold off on the sidearm for now. If you have the budget for it then what you want in a sidearm depends on two factors (besides cost of course) whether or not full metal is a must and exactly what model you're partial to. Certain manufacturers tend to make certain models better then others. If full metal is a must then the best choice that isn't going to cost you an arm and a leg is probably KJW, especially for the M9 which they do very well. You'll see alot of WE's around, they're cheap and full metal but tend to have problems, especially their 1911 models. KJW has a rep of having mag problems, but I have had two KJW pistols and I haven't had any trouble with my mags. If full metal isn't a must then WA or TM would be very good choices.

If you're planing on using your pistol frequently as a primary or using it for CAPS style target shooting then go with the hicapa. The hicapa is basically a doublestack version of the 1911. If you're interesting in tricking out your pistol then you should definitely go with the hicapa, the bulk of pistol upgrades out there are all for the hicapa. And get a TM hicapa if you do get one, since all the upgrades are for TM. Yeah, other pistols are TM compatible, but that's not quite the same.

As you can see from the above (very rough) prices, airsoft is not a cheap sport. It's generally accepted that the absolute minimum you need to get into it is $500, and it's usually more like $1000-$1500 if you go with quality gear. I've seen a few people do it for less then $500, but it takes a fair bit of time, effort and jury-rigging. And of course quality tends to be a problem at that level.

Now for some gun pron:

My Classic Army M15A4 Tactical Carbine without external addons:


My baby, CA M15A4 Tactical Carbine with m203 grenade launcher, red dot sight and taclight:
Man your gun is super badass! But how much did your gun cost including the gun itself, the internal upgrades, m203, taclight and red dot sight (including TAX) ??
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Old September 8th, 2011, 14:13   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THEMAKKER13 View Post
I personally wouldn't recommend getting a Tokyo Marui, but the VFC or Real Sword.
Reason that I don't like TM's much is that they have plastic bodies, to upgrade the fps you need to upgrade other GB parts, and they're expensive. For a similar price you could get a G&P.
There is definitely some truth there. TM is alittle weak on the muzzle velocity, and all abs externally. But you will not get anything remotely as reliable. You leave a TM stock internally and it will last literally decades. I'm in the process of building a backup gun right now that's going to be externally almost entirely G&P and internally stock TM. Yeah the fps will be alittle weak, but the primary consideration of a backup is that it works, since if you're using it at all your primary has already crapped out on you.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Iloveairsoft View Post
Man your gun is super badass! But how much did your gun cost including the gun itself, the internal upgrades, m203, taclight and red dot sight (including TAX) ??
I got the gun itself lightly used from the ASC classifieds already upgraded with a bunch of systema internals for $600 shipped, which was a really great deal (it was probably worth a $100 more). I got the CA m203 for an absolute steal at $150 due to some cosmetic damage you can't even see when it's mounted. Normally expect to pay around $300 for one. The red dot sight and the taclight I also got for great deals due to timing, both sellers needed cash quick. The rds was $20 (expect to pay ~$70) and the taclight, which is a G&P, I paid $30 for (about $60 new). Flip front sight, about $30. The Z rail I got as a free extra on another deal but is worth about $30 or so. I had to replace the battery not too long after I got it, another $50. So all told it cost me $880, but if you wanted to duplicate it in a hurry expect to pay about $1100-1200. And that's not including the $60 I paid for twelve Star realcap mags or the $450 I paid for six madbull 40mm grenades. Including the above ammo, $20 for the AI adapter and $40 for a charger, it cost me about $1420 to effectively field my baby.
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