Another *polishing* question.

[Union]

Hi everyone!

I recently ordered an airgun that shoots steel bbs. Its a colt 1911 close to perfect replica based on a KWC airsoft gun. I do not know the actual finish name but I do know it's full metal and it comes black.

Now before telling me to do some research, I looked everywhere I could but people are mentionning 80% of what I am looking for.

Heres my question : I want to get rid of the black and get a metal polished look on the whole gun. I do know how I am going to strip the paint off, thats not a problem. I do know how I am going to polish the gun as well, thats not the problem either. The problem is, after stripping the paint and polishing the metal to give it that shiny metal look (not mirror look, more like mat polished), I am well aware that Im probably gonna take off the bluing on the gun or any other kind of coating used on it to prevent oxidation.

----> Is there a coating or a just a clear coat that I can put on the gun after the polishing job that will protect back the gun against oxidation moisture etc?

Dont tell me bluing or parkerizing, I wanna keep the gun polished not black or gray! Something similar that will secure the finish...I got told to simply oil the extrrior but its not really permanent...

Thanks!

[ILLusion]

Acrylic.

I'll bet money that your gun is NOT blued and NOT parkerized... simply because the chances of any budget BB gun actually being machined from steel is ZERO. Bluing and Parkerization are general steel treatment techniques.

Easiest/fastest way to get the coating off, is to sandblast it. Then spray it with acrylic, but expect any internal mechanical interfacing to get royally messed up.

If you can do it by hand, then you'll have a lot more control over it, but for what it's worth, Acrylic enamel is NOT permanent either. It can wear, but at least it's more durable than a layer of WD40. :P

[Union]

THIS is the kind of question I was hoping to have. That sounds good. And I was think about removing all the internals and sand/polish only the exterior of the whole frame, without touching the non-visible mechanical parts (ie : The tip of the magazine that connects to the chamber etc...) so I dont see why I would have any mechanical problems...

Thanks again!


Edit : What do you mean by my gun probably not machined from still? The gun is full-metal I must missunderstand your sayings...It's a KWC Tangfoglio Witness 1911 full metal...Basicly the closest replica I could find of the 1911...Actually pretty amazing realistic wise...

[ILLusion]

Well, that confirms it: It's die-cast pot metal (some alloy mixture of zinc, aluminum, lead, and perhaps some other impurities). Exactly as I'd predicted, it's not machined from steel.

Steel is not the only metal element on this planet...

In other words, the coating you have on there is NOT blued, and it's NOT parkerized. It's most likely powder coated (that's common with KWC's).

[Union]

Ok then its just gonna be easier to remove the paint I guess...

And one last thing, I went to read about acrylic enamel and if I understand correctly, it's transparent and provides a protection is that right?

It seems like its kinda shiny though, wich I like a bit less since I wanna get a clean polished look but not mirror, hard to explain but I will provide pics of the kind of finish I wanna get...The good words are probably "mat polished finish" but still shiny haha

[Union]

[MultipleParadox]

Correct me if I'm wrong but wouldn't Acetone dissolve Acrylic Enamel?

[CDN_Stalker]

100% pure canauba car wax, is what I use on the knives I make.

http://www.mothers.com/01_mothers/01..._carnauba.html

Canadian Tire has it.

[Union]

Yeah but thats to polish isnt it...

[HKGhost]

If you want a polished look (not mirror finished), take off the current coating and polish it up with 2000 grit or finer sand paper. For a more brushed metal look, after stripping the finish, use a medium to fine scotch bright pad. To protect the finish, use a clear lacquer or for a dull look, use a satin or flat clear. This will protect it but the metal will get darker over time as the alloys will oxidize. Only high grade metals will hold it's shine.

[Union]

Wow thanks for that its exactly what I needed. Especially when you mentioned the satin or flat clear instead of clear lacquer.

I guess the clear lacquer would give it more of a glossy look right?

il have to go with a flat clear thats exactly what I need, just need to find out where to find it. Oh and thanks for the medium to fine bright pad I actually want that brushed look but i tought sandpaper was enough to give that look hhe thanks!

[Union]

For those interested, the previous answer were right. I did some further research based on the advices I received from here and what is used on industrial polished/brushed metal is :

Clear Lacquer Satin Finish

Thanks!

[CDN_Stalker]

Originally Posted by Union

Yeah but thats to polish isnt it...

No, it's to put on after to keep moisture from getting to the metal. Polishes have fine abrasives to scour the metal, the wax just seals the surface.

http://www.mothers.com/02_products/05550-05750.html

[Union]

Originally Posted by CDN_Stalker

No, it's to put on after to keep moisture from getting to the metal. Polishes have fine abrasives to scour the metal, the wax just seals the surface.

http://www.mothers.com/02_products/05550-05750.html

I see. Its still a temporary product though...Just like oil basicly, I have to put some every once in a while wich I don't want. The clear satin lacquer will do the job

[CDN_Stalker]

Lacquer will chip and flake off with use..........