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January 2nd, 2013, 16:23 | #1 |
How to completely disassemble a P226
I purchased a KJW P226 and want to get the frame powder coated so I need to dissassmble it down to just the bare frame.
I've taken it all apart exept for the mag release which I'm hung up on. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks *NEW* I found a guide to completely disassemble a Sig 226. Here is the link -Weps Last edited by Weps; January 6th, 2013 at 13:35.. Reason: Found a guide |
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January 2nd, 2013, 16:44 | #2 |
GBB Whisperer
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Look down the top of the receiver. There should be some sort of a plastic tab sticking up at the front of the inside of the magwell. This piece holds the spring, and is the retention mechanism for the magazing catch. Pull it straight up, and the mag catch should fall right out.
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January 2nd, 2013, 16:56 | #3 |
Prancercise Guru
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Make sure you mask off or tuck foam blocks in the working parts. If the painter puts the coat on thick you won't be able to get the pistol back together.
__________________
Airsoft, where nothing is hurt but feelings. |
January 2nd, 2013, 16:59 | #4 |
GBB Whisperer
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Also, beware of the heat that's used to bake on the enamel. I've seen a few airsoft frames deform or disintegrate in heat.
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January 2nd, 2013, 18:09 | #5 | |
Quote:
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January 2nd, 2013, 18:37 | #6 |
Prancercise Guru
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Re- shake and back your frame.
You can ask for low temp powder like they use on plywood. Be very wary if this painter is a guy who's putting your parts in with a bunch of other stuff to cut you a cheap deal. If they go in the oven with a bunch of car parts or lawn furniture then that will affect how much heat they put in the room and probably turn your job into a silver puddle.
__________________
Airsoft, where nothing is hurt but feelings. |
January 2nd, 2013, 18:48 | #7 |
I'm looking to get it done by Dave at Imperial Engravers as I've seen some posts on here of guys getting work done. I'll ask him about the low temp heat and blocking off the open spaces
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January 3rd, 2013, 10:21 | #8 |
GBB Whisperer
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One of the deformations that I saw, was done by Dave at Imperial. I'm not knocking his quality of work. It could have been his first time, and he may have learned by now. Fortunately, the deformation was minor and I was able to repair it without major effect to the rest of the fitment.
Also, be sure the insides are fully masked out, or you're going to have a hell of a time removing all the enamel from the functioning mechanisms. These small parts all work within a very small level of tolerance (hundredths of an inch). Even if 0.010" of enamel got on to each side of a mold, that extra 0.020" of thickness will affect fitment. Pistol receivers require much more level of accuracy than many of the carbine receivers that are done by him and shown on the forums. I had an issue with the piece that Dave did for me, but that could be because the precision components I use are accurate to 0.001" in tolerance. He'd missed a few areas to be masked out, and even with a bit of mis-spray in to some areas, it created some problems - this was solvable with some filing, but it was hours of added labour that I didn't want to have to do. I know the inner workings of the gun better than he does, so I know which areas to mask, and which not to. My lesson away from this, is that I will mask any interiors for him from now on. At the end of the day, he offers a good service for a very reasonable price. |
January 4th, 2013, 23:07 | #9 |
Thank you for the honest opinion. I will spend some serious time masking off the insides so I limit the chance of running into problems. I called him today and he said that he's done a lot of pistols so I'm hoping that was a one off.
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January 6th, 2013, 13:57 | #11 |
link doesnt work
__________________
Your brain is your best defence. Your weapon and effective use of command and control tactics immediately puts you on an equal or superior offensive footing. |
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January 6th, 2013, 14:09 | #12 |
January 6th, 2013, 23:01 | #13 |
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