KJW M9 Elite Full Metal Painting

[jerryliang2k]

I just bought the KJW M9 Elite and I'm really excited about it. The only thing thats kinda a turn off for me thou is the gray color of the frame, slide and outter barrel.

HUGE PICS V
http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/739/dscn25075lv.jpg
http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/2093/dscn25082pc.jpg
HUGE PICS ^

I'm looking to paint the gray areas black but this is the first time I've painted an airsoft of any kind. I'm basicly looking for some tips and stuff. I've found some painting tips on google and on the forums but they're mostly for AEGs. Here's what I want to know:

1. What kind of paint do I use to get a durable, and realistic finish?
2. I'm guessing I have to take the thing apart so how much should I disassemble the gun? Like to I have to take all the safety/safety levers and off or do I just dismantle the gun into its main components (frame, slide, barrel etc).
3. Besides paint, what else do I need?
4. What procautions should I take when painting/disassembling/assembling?
5. Is there any other post-painting processes I should be aware of?

Thanks in advance! I'll go stare at my gun for a while now (dont have propane adapter yet )

[Syn]

http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/?filn...ainting101.htm

painted weapon pics 56k warning

http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forum...howtopic=15767



They (@ARnie airsoft) seem happy to use Krylon paint, but from my experience on different metals and plastics it scratches easily on metal. It bonds really well to plastic or hard plastic though. I noticed some ppl used this scratching off on metal to their advantage using a scrub brush on strategic parts of the gun to give it a realistic "worn in due to battle look".

I've had many great experiences using automotive paint on metals using airbrush but you can acheive a good job too using a can of auto paint from canadian tire. Just be aware though, Can T auto paint you really have to shake well or colours will run, and the paint is much thinner than krylon, so don't spray too much on the first coat. Even if not all 100% of the surface you are spraying thats ok for the first coat because you are doing a 2nd and 3 coat soon anyhow.


basic tips just in case 20-25 cel temp of area best

- i like to use the big cardboard box and newspaper method since it blocks wind gusts and dust.
-after taking apart prep the gun with a lint free cloth, if it is grease dirty clean it up. don't use harsh chemical on the gun especially on the plastic or it may warp.
-use masking taping rubbed on parts you don't want painted.
-paint in a well ventilated area, that is relatively dust free.
-shake the can for at least ten minutes and shake it inbetween spray strokes of horizontal 6-10 inches from gun part.
-give very light coats and let dry as per can instructions rather than 1 thick coat.
-you can do very minor wet/dry sanding inbetween coats for unlevel areas where the paint colour looks uneven.
- a clear matt coat (not gloss, unless you want a shiny gun) as a final coat will help against nicks and chips.
-let the paint harden before you use the gun in battle. eg at least 48 hrs.

* also have a clean up place ready before painting, and a secure (eg from little brother) place where to put the painting box with the parts so they can dry in peace.

[mcguyver]

if it's metal strip it down with brake cleaner (works best) and wire brush. then get it powder coated. paint won't stick even with a high-zinc primer (scratches and flakes off too easy). tried it on my m9 multiple times with different configurations. they powder coat them at the factory and it stands up best

[jerryliang2k]

woldn't stripping paint with brake cleaner and a metal brush damage the metal? And whats powder coating? Never heard of that before. And whay m9 did you have? Maybe ours are made of different metals?

thanks for the advice Syn.

[Syn]

If you can get the parts powder coated (electrostatic spray gun, google it) (for cheap $, hard though ) go for it, I always get expensive bike frames powder coated outsourced to a specialty bike store before detail work. umm yeah be careful what chemicals you use on the gun i am too ??chicken?? to use anything beyond 50% iso alcohol lol. Scratching may show through with some paint jobs so don't scratch to to the point where you remove metal. btw you can start off with a green scrub pad they use to wash dishes if you think the metal brush is too much.

From what mcguyver (thanks for you actual experience with the gun mcguyver) said he tried it with his m9 and no go. You can of course try the cheap butt spray can method and if it don't work all you lost is $7 or else yellow pages mechanic shops would be a good place to call around and get quotes.

I wonder if they quote you beyond $100 if its worth just getting a better slide in black if they make it for the gun. pretty sure they do.

I'm training now only with a P99 co2 with metal bb. The GBB version is twice the price and 1/2 the quality. (I think G&G UMP or the new TM mp7a1 for Jan).

I'm going to ask my uncle when i see him on MSN next time and ask if they have the name of an appropriate bonding agent in this case.

[jerryliang2k]

Awaiting your expertise then

btw, Syn does T.O. mean toronto? If so add me to your list (blackdeltagames@hotmail.com). I live in mississauga and I'm just getting to know everyone.

[Syn]

ok jerry i added you on msn. I'm still a noob in airsoft too but i started off right by doing the free Atq1 course. It will be a few days before i get in contact with my uncle so please be patient (he teaches panel beating and car painting at technical college in Europe).