Flat-nub, M-Nub, R-Hop, G-Hop, XYZ-Hop, Hip-Hop?

[AnthonyG]

Can someone please help me sort these out?

I've seen a lot of threads comparing one type of nub with another, or one hop-up mod to with the next, but can't seem to find a comprehensive guide that explains the difference between each of these parts/modifications.

Was wondering if someone would take a bit of time to explain or point me in the right direction. I'm more interested in the differences between hop-up modifications, as apposed to a recommendation of which one is the "best".

Thanks!

[Azathoth]

Super simple for you, omits lots of details.

G hop is the Japanese hopup mod that was done back in 2004-2010ish that gave a really solid long path for the 1 joule guns. Somehow they managed to keep this thing a secret for a rather long time.

R HOP is the next iteration of the G-hop. HS5 of hunterseeker5 is credited with the invention.

ER HOP stands for Extended R hop. You take the barrel window of you inner barrel and you make it longer. Can be used in conjunction with EM nubs E meaning extended.

M NUB is the replacement for the adjustment cushion??? i can't remember what that little round thing was called in AEG HOPUPS. its the thing that the Shredder SCS replaced. It is a foam that is rectangular and works in combination (ideally) with a R hop/G hop/ Flat hop.

Hip-Hop is the crap that young people listen to on the street as I drive by in my Mercedes throwing money out the window.

[Hectic]

Edit, I type slow lol.
Okay let's simplify.
There are two basic types of hop currently available.
The traditional type (a rubber and a nub) and then the R hop type (those will have a patch cut to fill the hop window)
Let's get deeper. The traditional hop has come a long way, now one has a lot of choices for rubbers and nubs. I'm sure we all know the standard, a rubber with a mound of some sort on it, then a small bit of rubber (nub) that the hop arm uses to push on the rubber pushing the mound into the barrel.
Now we have the "flat hop" types of rubbers, they have no mound inside, they require a larger nub to push the rubber into the hop window.
This allows us to create many shapes and sizes to try and achieve better hop. The two standards are the flat hop and the bridge hop. Flat being exactly that, a flat or gently curved nub that is (hopefully) sized to just fit into the hop window. Bridge having a notch of some sort in the middle, to apply the hop more to the sides of the bb to help center it.
Now the rhop will use some sort of nub, usually a flat one from my understanding, a lot of times a custom cut (home made from eraser or something) then a custom/semi custom (depending on the kit and barrel used) rubber is cut to fit the hop window, then it is glued to the barrel and sanded smooth then either a modified rubber or just a pre made smooth one and the above mentioned custom fit nub are combined.
The goal of both this and the flat/bridge methods is to provide more hop by having a larger contact area for the bb to aquire spin, at the same time this reduces the ammount of hop needed to generate lift.
Don't miss understand, you will need to apply the same amount of spin to lift a given weight at a given velocity, but you will be able to provide spin with less effort, (ie less pressure from the hop up causing loss of fps and potential bouncing in barrel from starting off pushed down to the bottom etc..)
This in turn means heavier rounds could potentially be fired I creasing effective range.
I'm sure some of the methods could be gone into more detail and I didn't touch on ones I haven't heard of or used at least once lol.
here is a bridge style.

A flat hop, note the modify is a little small to fill the window using most inners and most hop units, the above prometheus has a chart to trim for different guns.

Some assorted attempts at making the traditional hop more effective with some rhop pads to the left.


And the makings of an rhop install.

credit to the owners of the pics, just for your reference.
Also it should be noted the best bang out of an rhop comes from first widening the window on the barrel so you can fit the biggest patch possible, some moving of the hop units window may also be needed. That being said good results can come from fitting to the stock window, however I found that the prometheus rubber with the bridge tensioner (as they call it) works just as well.

[lurkingknight]

ER hop is more for guns above 400fps in the states attempting to shoot higher than .36s. It's a bit of overkill for canadian guns, lot of work for little gain above the R hop at canadian fps levels. Ridiculously good results can be achieved with a standard sized IR hop patch, prommy barrel and excellent air seal mods.

R vs IR is normal material vs material more suited for colder weather, which is just some sort of silicone tubing.

[AnthonyG]

Just need to clarify a few points to check my understanding.

Is there a difference between a rubber and a bucking, or they're the same thing?
Is an R-hop pad the same thing as a nub?

[Hectic]

A rubber and a bucking are the slave that go over the barrel.
The nub is either the little round bit (stock) or the bridge or flat tensioner or some home brew option or mnub.
The rhop pad is attached to the barrel, inside the hop window (filling it up and sticking out a little to the inside of the barrel). That gets used with a rubber/bucking and then does its job, the rubber itself is now mostly just for airseal. Then you would use a nub of some kind.
In summary
Rubber, bucking=the sever over the barrel
rhop=a silicone (or other) type of tubing cut to fit and then glued into the hop window
Nub, tensioner=the little bit that the hop up arm pushes into the bucking and then either the BB or the rhop pad

[ThunderCactus]

Hop rubber is the sleeve that goes over the barrel and usually has the part that physically contacts the BB. Exception with G-hop, R-hop, ER-hop; the patches sit in the window of the barrel (to make physical contact with the BB) and the hop rubber merely forms a seal around the barrel.

The nub is the bit that goes on the end of the adjuster arm on the hop chamber that applies the pressure TO the hop rubber.

But in the end, flat hop (a naked flat hop rubber with no contact surface inside) and R-hop perform pretty darn close to the same.

The big difference is really whether the BB is hitting a mound or pair of fingers, or hitting a longer flat contact patch to get backspin.

[AnthonyG]

Got it!

[chofmeister]

Has anyone ever experimented with creating turbulence at the top of the chamber right before the BB. In my mind this would create spin without having anything touching the BB possibly making it more accurate and not robbing power.


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[lurkingknight]

The backspin itself is what slows the bb down. It's not necessarily the contact patch.

If you want to create spin quickly, I doubt there's a more efficient way than a patch. If you want to create the same amount of spin over time, then you should be looking at a LRB. Essentially it's a bent barrel in which the curve forces the bb down a path that will generate backspin.

[AnthonyG]

I successfully confused the guys at Evike:

https://youtu.be/P92fNzxpqLw?t=545

[chaz]

Originally Posted by AnthonyG

I successfully confused the guys at Evike:

https://youtu.be/P92fNzxpqLw?t=545

Yikes.

[Stealth]

Originally Posted by AnthonyG

I successfully confused the guys at Evike:

https://youtu.be/P92fNzxpqLw?t=545

[DarkJTF]

Their credibility just hit the fan