Bolt Action Project: VSR G-Spec, M24 Full Upgrades Discussion (Parts, Mods, HPA/CO2 vs Spring, etc)

[Drakker]

How long is your old one? (That's probably the weirdest question I've asked on these boards so far).

If you want to use very heavy BBs at very high FPS, you need all the air volume you can get and the air brake gets in the way. But under 500 fps, its desirable to use the air brake for noise reduction and durability.

[Fallen]

Originally Posted by Ricochet

I'm going to stick with springer for now, though I may do an HPA setup later, but it'll likely be an a different platform altogether. I'm looking into the Classic Army M24 or something like that and use a CO2 cartridge setup. So here's a question then; Mancraft Sdik or Wolverine bolt? Reviews online are split down the middle. Sdik is a fully mechanical unit versus Wolverine's bolt, which has a solenoid requiring a battery, also the Mancraft is much cheaper, but the Wolverine is supposedly a little better in the overall consistency. Has anyone else researched this?

Bolt has better consistency at the moment on C02. A lot of players are having trouble with the mancraft unit consistency. Fps varies a lot between each shot ( +/- 10 to 20 Fps depending on the set up). But a few players are not having trouble at all with fps variation... Maybe a question of quality check or the way the regulator is designed
I also know you need to upgrade your SDIK unit with an O-ring somewhere on the cylinder head to make it quiet. Without it, it's a lot more noisy then the Bolt unit.

Mancraft is releasing a new regulator in a few weeks. Something with a double expansion chamber, giving a better consistency. Co2 is a liquid gas in the cartridge, and when liquid co2 gets in the system , that make fps variation. With the double expansion chambre, all the liquid transform into gas, which mean less fps variation.

We'll see the result of that.
But for the moment, I'd still chose the Minecraft unit over the Bolt, juste because of the price and the fact that you need to buy their cylinder.... And their overpriced regulator

[ThunderCactus]

Long enough to make a gun without a sorbo pretty freaking quiet
Its just friction fit so easy to install as well

[Ricochet]

Originally Posted by ThunderCactus

Long enough to make a gun without a sorbo pretty freaking quiet
Its just friction fit so easy to install as well

You didn't have a sorbo in yours?

So what's a 480-500 spring? Is it trial and error?

[ThunderCactus]

Made the air brake before I put a sorbo in, not that it really makes any difference.
Loudest thing the the sear releasing the piston, which is actually quite noisy for the shooter.

The spring rating is going to be very inaccurate. You're going with a 6.03, so that helps reduce joule creep quite a bit, but due to the volume and bb weight, its a tad unpredictable.
Anyway, best bet is to aim 50-100fps over. The air brake is going to reduce the volume of air able to propel the BB, and you'll lose anywhere from 30+ fps, but the thing is its WAY easier for me to adjust the length of the airbrake than it is to fiddle around with springs and shit.

So with mine, im on target for power, but still loud. So im getting a stronger spring and a longer airbrake. Then just have 2 airbrakes depending if I can run 2j or 2.3j. Kinda like swapping springs but cooler.

[Ricochet]

Man I really got away from this project. So Thunder convinced me to go with the M24 seeing as how his new build is having great success. It's a tough choice between the VSR family and the M24 family as they both ha e their merits, but essentially they are the same thing at their core, so it's upgrades and mods that'll really bring a BA to life. Thunder got a Snow Wolf M24, which is a little different than the Classic Army, the flagship M24, and is a match to the Javelin, both of which use the APS2 system more or less. I finally settled on the Modify-Tech M24 for it's initial build quality and features. It's in the Snow Wolf APS2 family, but it's stock trigger and cylinder set are high grade hardened steel and high quality aluminum right out of the box. The trigger has a pull distance and resistance adjustment, so time will tell if it will survive, or eventually need a PDI or Laylax replacement. The cylinder set and bolt handle are also supposed to be higher end, but we'll see how they seal and how they last.

Like it's brothers and sisters it has a solid one piece stock, which has a more realistic size, weight and feel versus the VSR guns. The hop-up has an exterior G-Spec style adjuster, which is a great feature, but the hop-up is slightly proprietary and although it is said to be compatible with some of the aftermarket hops, there may be some modding or fit issues. I haven't heard any complaints about the mags though, which is something that seems to plague the M24 guns. It is compatible with many other brands, such as Snow Wolf, which is good as the Modify mags are expensive compared to most BA springer guns. Some do have an LED upgrade feature that allows you to run glow-in-the-dark rounds, so maybe that's why the price is up.

I ordered the Tan version brand new from Toronto Airsoft, which is on sale now, and apparently comes shooting just under 500 FPS. My goal is to keep it under 450 FPS, so I'll need to downgrade the spring immediately. My first changes will be a high quality Laylax 6.03mm barrel, an R-hop to the stock hop of possible, fill foam the stock, sorbo and possibly airbrake the cylinder and fit the whole thing with a foam suppressor. I'm also working on a custom gun wrap/ghillie made from camo netting and paracord. I may forgo a bipod to start, or just get a short one and I'll also need a scope, not sure which type yet.

If anyone has had one of these feel free to chime in. I'll try and keep everyone updated as I go. I've been having good success with 0.32g Elite Force, which are locally available, but I may try a 0.36g or even 0.49g if I want a bit more consistency.

[Drakker]

I can't really comment on the modify M24, but for the bipod and scope issue, yeah. I'll say that the bipod is a waste of money. It makes your rifle heavier, harder to aim while not using it, and it snags in branches and stuff when you crawl. Not something desirable at all. For the scope, its really up to you, but a real steel scope is a must, you want it to stay adjusted when you bump into stuff, or if for some reason you accidentally drop the weapon or something. Also, there's more scopes with level "bulbs" on them and now even inside the scope so you can see it while aiming. If you are shooting long range, they will be a great help to ensure your shots don't start flying to the side because your rifle is not straight. I'd check those. Of course, any great quality scope coupled with a rail mounted level would do the same. A level is not required, but it can be helpful, and considering how cheap it is, it might be a good buy for you.

Author notes: I don't have one, but sometimes I wish I did. If I bought a scope today, I'd get one with a level.

[Ricochet]

I'll look into that, it sounds like a decent enough idea. Another thing is the eye relief. I'm going to grab a scope with large eye relief and a shroud for quicker acquisition. As I'm not going to shooting bullets, it's important to give myself as much time as possible. On one of my last failed sniper projects, the TM L96, I had a larger scope which worked wonders in that regard. It looked a little big for the rifle, but who cares. I've seen quite a few videos and pictures of players using a more assault oriented scope on their BA builds, like an ACOG, so I'll look into the merits of that as well.

I'll try with no bipod to start, I don't need the extra weight and I think I'll be more active than just lying around.

I should go get some acoustic foam as well, which I think I can buy by the sheet. I may use it in the stock versus the expanding foam and will replace the foam of the suppressor with it.