2018 and vsr technologies

[blazzer73553]

I bought a vsr-1- gspec, i like it, but it def needs a few ups, i have an aeg barrel i wanna use with it, but my research tells me i need a new hop up unit,

spent a few hours yesterday researching this, but lots of the threads were very old. 2007 etc.

im wondering with current times, what are some of the more high end quality hop units i should be looking at as i have no experience with them as of yet, i dont wanna drop 100$+ on a hop up and it be a dud.

action army?
pdi?
etc?

thnx

[Drakker]

The short answer is you don't need to upgrade the hop-up unit. You will not gain anything, and you might even degrade your rifle's accuracy using an inferior unit. To use AEG barrels, you need to use inferior AEG hop-up rubbers. They don't seal as well and they generally are not as accurate as VSR type rubbers.

Contrary to the VSR 10 pro-sniper that has a crappy aluminum barrel, the G-Spec has a good quality brass barrel. Clean it well and it will serve you well. The only barrels that would be a guaranteed upgrade compared to the stock g-spec barrel would be a high end stainless steel PDI or Laylax barrels, and those are expensive. Don't bother with lesser brands, they might not give you any better accuracy than the stock barrel, and in some cases they could even lower your rifle's accuracy.

The only upgrade your stock hop-up chamber could use is a Dangerwerx (or any clone) metal hop-up arm which will prevent any side spin if you use heavyweight BBs. The stock plastic arm can bend with higher hop-up pressure and harder hop-up rubbers.

[blazzer73553]

well ,ive got an orga magnus barrel id like to use its an aeg, correct me if im wrong but o feel as the quality is far better than factory in this case?

is there really no aftermarket hopup that is better than factory that is aeg suitable?

well are all hop ups inferior?

[Drakker]

Orga barrels are nothing spectacular, but the wide bore when combined with an excessive air volume works very well. What is the bore of your orga barrel, and what is its length? A VSR10 has a lot of volume, but still not enough to use the wider orga barrels effectively.

There are no aftermarket hop-up units that will give you better accuracy than the stock unit, all of them are gimmicks, but some of them are equally as good accuracy-wise. If you'd rather adjust your hop-up with a hex key than a slider, you can look into the Action Army hop-up unit, but personally, I find that adjusting hop-up with a hex key is a huge pain. Some people will make a TDC hop-up adjustment (top dead center) to alleviate this problem and still use the Action Army unit, but if you are going to go for a TDC, the stock unit works equally well, so why bother with the AA chamber in the first place?

Some people need to replace everything in a rifle to feel like they have the best custom piece out there, but that's just flushing money down the drain. Most upgrade parts on the market don't help much if at all, some are worse than stock. The trick is to avoid those traps and use only the parts that will really help improve accuracy and durability.

To make a great VSR 10, you need the following, in this order:

A metal hop-up arm with good tolerances for your stock hop-up unit, the Dangerwerx is great, some people have had good results with the maple leaf arms. It's a lot cheaper than a new hop-up chamber.

A good hop-up rubber, or a good r-hop setup. If you use the maple leaf hop-up arm, then a maple leaf rubber will work marvels. This is the part that will give you the most accuracy increase out of all the upgrades you can do. It also happens to be very cheap.

A good 90° trigger unit. I love the PDI, but the Laylax is great too. Everything else is meh, except some of the really expensive and super custom triggers like the S-Trigger, but they are not that much better than a PDI or Laylax and cost a lot more. This is strictly for durability, it won't help accuracy at all.

A good piston, one is provided with the Laylax trigger. Otherwise, I would recommend the piston and stainless steel cylinder set from PDI. With a G-Spec, I like to use a vacuum PDI piston with a custom air brake like the one ThunderCactus makes to insure your rifle is dead silent.

A lot of love. Everything needs to be tweaked to perfection.

Two barrel spacers of good manufacture.

Finally, if at that point the rifle is not accurate enough for you, then looking into the very best barrels on the market could help further increase accuracy. In this case PDI or Laylax are best. A barrel is VERY expensive, so buy the best or skip. A lesser barrel will most likely not be any more accurate than the stock G-Spec barrel, and might even be worse. The barrel is the part that will give you the least accuracy increase per dollar spent, so do it last.

Everything else is wasted money. If you went the laylax road, your stock cylinder might eventually wear out, so you can replace is with a Laylax cylinder, or any other good quality cylinder *of the same diameter*. That upgrade cylinder will most likely require a new cylinder head too. If you went the PDI way, you already have a new cylinder and cylinder head that came with the piston kit and that should last forever.

That's about it. Don't listen to all the peddlers out there that are trying to sell you crap you don't need. You can build a good rifle out of lesser parts, but you can only build a great rifle with the best parts and by knowing exactly what you are doing.

[blazzer73553]

hmmm...
the bore on the orga is a 6.23 430mm( so on the g-psec the silencer will be used as a barrel extension)

i do plan on using an r-hop and i thought the AA hopup was tdc by default? no?

you've given me some thing to research/ think about.... thank you kindly

[ThunderCactus]

You'll want a 6.01 or 6.03 with a VSR.
A 6.23 is just a stupid bore, perpetuated by retards too blinded by reviews of other retards that had nothing else to compare to.

6.13 is about the maximum bore you'd want with an LMG.
But with a sniper rifle, a larger bore honestly offers nothing. The only advantage is that you'll have less accuracy loss due to fouling, but if you're shooting that much with a bolt action, you shouldn't be using a bolt action lol
A 6.01 will get you better efficiency from the volume you're using, since it's a fixed volume (unlike AEGs), so it'll be easier to reach your muzzle energy goal.

And AEG barrels > VSR barrels.
AEG rubbers are inferior to VSR rubbers, but neither type of stock rubbers are better than Rhop. And the VSR barrels aren't actually higher quality than AEG barrels, it's just a different cut of window.
The hop chamber design eliminates any losses from having a smaller seal.
There's really no downside to using a hop chamber with an AEG barrel.

However, the aftermarket hop chambers are overrated.
The AA chamber is your best bet.
The PDI chamber is designed for use with hop rubbers 12 years ago and was never updated. It's now a terrible design that needs to be heavily modified to keep up with the AA chamber.

[manchovie]

Check out this thread and those in rakutin's signature:
http://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/41...-use-them.html

I found them to be very helpful in explaining where vsr tech is at these days.

A few notes I took away:

-tm hop up is great but its hop arm is only designed to work with traditional hop rubbers that expect it to push down the way the stock arm pushes down (prometheus air seal, modify brown, pdi w-hold etc.)

-If you modify the arm, get an aftermarket one, or use an Action Army hop unit (which has a number of other improvements) it can use concave nubs. These concave nubs, used in conjunction with the autobot/decepticon line of maple leaf buckings, gives much better results than the traditional style and most r-hop installations (reputedly)

-VSR uses the VSR bucking style for a reason. It's a better bucking style for lifting heavy bbs and maintaining a very good airseal under high pressure. Switching to AEG style won't give you good results unless you r-hop and even then it's questionable whether it's better, let alone worth all the extra money and effort.

-Choose the right bucking softness. 60° if you want slightly more accuracy but you'll have to change it every 10k rounds, or 70° that will last forever.

-match the barrel length to your rifle with its optimal bb weight and power. the gspec barrel is ~300mm long and so has less volume in which the bb can accellerate. Depending on the power you upgrade to, you should use very heavy bbs (.4g, .45g) for getting the best performance

-90° triggers, cylinder/piston sets etc are the expensive stuff, but you need it to shoot hard. I've got all PDI in mine, but now there are many brands available.

-Apparently maple leaf crazy jet barrels are producing excellent results, sometimes beating out MUCH more expensive barrels like the EDGI or PDI ones. If I were building a new VSR, I'd definitely check one of those out.

Good luck!

[blazzer73553]

Originally Posted by manchovie

Check out this thread and those in rakutin's signature:
http://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/41...-use-them.html

I found them to be very helpful in explaining where vsr tech is at these days.

A few notes I took away:

-tm hop up is great but its hop arm is only designed to work with traditional hop rubbers that expect it to push down the way the stock arm pushes down (prometheus air seal, modify brown, pdi w-hold etc.)

-If you modify the arm, get an aftermarket one, or use an Action Army hop unit (which has a number of other improvements) it can use concave nubs. These concave nubs, used in conjunction with the autobot/decepticon line of maple leaf buckings, gives much better results than the traditional style and most r-hop installations (reputedly)

-VSR uses the VSR bucking style for a reason. It's a better bucking style for lifting heavy bbs and maintaining a very good airseal under high pressure. Switching to AEG style won't give you good results unless you r-hop and even then it's questionable whether it's better, let alone worth all the extra money and effort.

-Choose the right bucking softness. 60° if you want slightly more accuracy but you'll have to change it every 10k rounds, or 70° that will last forever.

-match the barrel length to your rifle with its optimal bb weight and power. the gspec barrel is ~300mm long and so has less volume in which the bb can accellerate. Depending on the power you upgrade to, you should use very heavy bbs (.4g, .45g) for getting the best performance

-90° triggers, cylinder/piston sets etc are the expensive stuff, but you need it to shoot hard. I've got all PDI in mine, but now there are many brands available.

-Apparently maple leaf crazy jet barrels are producing excellent results, sometimes beating out MUCH more expensive barrels like the EDGI or PDI ones. If I were building a new VSR, I'd definitely check one of those out.

Good luck!

Some great info, hugely appreciated. Got some more digging I gotta do now. Helped alot!

[Drakker]

Be wary of the Maple Leaf crazy jet barrels. They are usually better than stock barrels, but the crazy jet gimmick does nothing. They are brass barrels that shoot well because they have a good enough bore that is better than most stock barrels, but they can't compete with PDI or Laylax/Prometheus stainless steel barrels for longevity/durability. There's nothing wrong with brass per say, but it will have to be well maintained to keep shooting well over the years (clean corrosion, polish/lap it lightly once in a while), while with stainless steel barrels you can clean them when needed then forget about them. This is one of the big reasons most seasoned Airsofters swear by stainless steel high quality barrels.

Also, you can use an r-hop with the stock chamber without any worries, but you'll need a flat hop-up arm to stick an m-nub to or one of the specialized arm that is designed to use a hop-up bridge like the frefly.

[Ricochet]

+ 1 - VSR stock Hop
+ 1 - 6.03mm bore (Prometheus)

- 1 - Wide-bore
- 1 - Long barrels