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G&P SPR/A RAS slack

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Old January 6th, 2006, 18:02   #1
Igor01
 
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G&P SPR/A RAS slack

Noticed a small problem with my brand new SPR/A (otherwise an extremely solid gun) - when handled with a vertical grip attached to the RAS, there's a small slack somewhere which allows the entire RAS to rotate within about 5-7 degrees. The problem is not noticeable without the vertical grip but I guess the additional leverage the grip provides makes it apparent.

My question is - is this a known issue and how does one go about fixing it? I have never opened any of my guns and therefore won't dare to dissect this beautiful and rather expensive toy for the fear of screwing something up Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
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Old January 6th, 2006, 20:34   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Igor01
Noticed a small problem with my brand new SPR/A (otherwise an extremely solid gun) - when handled with a vertical grip attached to the RAS, there's a small slack somewhere which allows the entire RAS to rotate within about 5-7 degrees. The problem is not noticeable without the vertical grip but I guess the additional leverage the grip provides makes it apparent.

My question is - is this a known issue and how does one go about fixing it? I have never opened any of my guns and therefore won't dare to dissect this beautiful and rather expensive toy for the fear of screwing something up Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
If you're lucky, just tighten up the ring that goes around the RAS where the RAS meets the receiver.
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Old January 6th, 2006, 22:46   #3
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yup. as adrian said. use some blue loctite to keep it solid.
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Old January 7th, 2006, 16:51   #4
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Thanks for the suggestions guys. How do I tighten the ring though? It doesn't seem to wanna rotate around its axis when I use a moderate amount of force I am afraid to use exsessive force since I have no clue how the thing attaches to the body and the RIS. Or am I getting it completely wrong and "tighten it" means doing something copletely different than rotating it clockwise around its axis?
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Old January 7th, 2006, 22:45   #5
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How I do it is:

a)I loosen off the ring enough so I can see some thread
b)throw some loctite on there
c)Make a cardboard "cushion" around the RAS
d)throw the RAS in a vice
e)start tightening it.

Pretty much you just have to tighten it until the ring is covering all the thread. If it's still loose, then you'll have to take everything apart and tighten the barrel nut (ILL, correct me if this isn't the right term; you know the part I'm taliing about) most likely.
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Old January 7th, 2006, 23:25   #6
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it's even easier than that. loosen the ring with a rubber glove on or a rubber strap wrench. only a couple of turns is enough. then set the rail straight with the top rail of the gun and tighten. you don't even need loctite. my spr used to do that and i loosened it and retightened it once and it's been fine ever since.
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Old January 8th, 2006, 11:53   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcguyver
rubber strap wrench
I didn't even think of that. Listen to this man. I need to buy me one now dammit.
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Old January 8th, 2006, 15:37   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcguyver
it's even easier than that. loosen the ring with a rubber glove on or a rubber strap wrench. only a couple of turns is enough. then set the rail straight with the top rail of the gun and tighten. you don't even need loctite. my spr used to do that and i loosened it and retightened it once and it's been fine ever since.
I loosened the ring exposing the threading, made sure the RAS is straight and tightened the ring back as hard as I could (with the help of good old rubber glove since I don't have a vice). The problem still persists though.

Could it be that "as tight as I could" is not tight enough, or is there perhaps some other attachment point that might need tightening?
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Old January 8th, 2006, 16:20   #9
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you could try turning the rail with the threads as you tighten it. this will also tighten the "nut" that's attached to your body in case the problem is there. in any case both "nuts" need to be pretty tight, much tighter than skin/metal contact will allow. that's why i suggested either really strong hands in rubber gloves (i bend pipe for a living) or a rubber strap wrench so you don't damage the finish on your gun.
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Old January 14th, 2006, 15:30   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcguyver
you could try turning the rail with the threads as you tighten it. this will also tighten the "nut" that's attached to your body in case the problem is there. in any case both "nuts" need to be pretty tight, much tighter than skin/metal contact will allow. that's why i suggested either really strong hands in rubber gloves (i bend pipe for a living) or a rubber strap wrench so you don't damage the finish on your gun.
I've used a rubber strap wrench and it looks like tightening the ring holding the RAS in place does not fix the problem. It appears that the nut (for the lack of a better word) that the RAS attaches to has some play, so even a super strong attachment of the RAS to the nut simply results in the entire nut+RAS assembly rotating together.

How to I tighten the nut (the round metal piece with circular holes on the perimeter and two short stubby metal pins that prevent the RAS from rotating relative to the nut itself)? Please tell me this is possible without having to take the gun apart
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Old January 14th, 2006, 15:44   #11
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yes, that "nut" can also be tightnend. if you have a spanner wrench this is easy. if not, you can use the r.a.s. to spin it tight by hand and then use the strap wrench to tighten it further, then move the pins in the "nut" to line up with the corresponding holes on the r.a.s. until it sits properly lined up with the top rail on the upper receiver. if you still seem to have trouble with it after all this, take it to your next game or visit your local gun doctor. they could fix it up in a jiffy.
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Old January 14th, 2006, 15:53   #12
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The proper tool is the Armorer's Wrench.

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Old January 14th, 2006, 19:15   #13
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and the infinitely cheaper version, the G&P Delta Ring Key:

http://www.wgcshop.com/pcart/shopper...=GP-TOOL-GP266

You don't need to tighten with the strength of real steel parts. This less effective tool (but more than effective enough for airsoft) does the job for cheaper than Guarder.
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