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Old May 10th, 2006, 03:51   #16
ILLusion
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harleyb
Quote:
Originally Posted by shbadmintonclub
Quote:
Originally Posted by AirsoftPlayers.com
If you search the AirsoftZone forums, you will find older reports of the silenced piston heads actually coming apart inside of the mechbox. These reports haven't been substantiated very well recently, so since I have no problem entering my mechbox, I am willing to take that risk.
Source: AirsoftPlayers

Did Systema put a fix to this recently?
Things like that should have Loctite applied anyway. Plain common sense, doesn't matter if it's an airsoft gun or a motorcycle or an airplane.
Personally do not recommend.

The silent head sets are FULLY polycarbonate (read: PLASTIC). Loctite works well on metal to metal contact. The silent head sets are all some for of polymer. Loctite or threadlock compounds are all known to eat away at any kind of plastic.

Installing such head sets are done through experience:
1) knowing when "tight is tight enough" by manual installation without using any external compounds
2) Too much tightening where the threads will degrade
3) Too little tightening and the entire unit comes apart.

Understand that plastics are softer than metals, but at a certain point, will have the same holding point.
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Old May 10th, 2006, 04:36   #17
MadMax
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Polycarbonate is sensitive to many solvents and oils. I suggest carefully cleaning screws used to mount PC with an alcohol wash. Grip the threaded end with a paper towel and turn the screw to remove oils from the manufacturing process of the screw.

Seems kind of anal, but I have noted oil related degredation of some polycarbonate components under microscope inspection. Under not too high magnification (around 40x) you can sometimes find small cracks around stressed corners exposed to oil or solvents. This is called crazing.
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Old May 10th, 2006, 05:02   #18
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Heh ah heh..

Actually, technically busings are also bearings in engineering terminology. The term bearing is actually not very specific. When the word is applied to a part, all it asserts is that the part supports a load of some sort. A buttress on a church is a load bearing member. The washer on a stock spring guide is called a thrust bearing.

There is a bushing type in your AEG motor in the end bell (end where the brushes are kept) called a spherical bearing (or more specifically a spherical bushing). It can align itself with the front bearing because it's allowed to rotate in directions perpindicular to the shaft and reduce binding. The outside of the bushing is spherically shaped so it can align coaxially with the front bushing despite misalignments in the endbell. A cylindrical bushing press fit into the end bell would staunchly try to stay coaxial with it's seat so it could bind with the front bearing if it was also cylindrical. In the real world, you never have perfect alignment when you chuck things together. Good designs are tolerant to reasonable errors. In good motors, both bushings are spherical so they can both self align and become coaxial with the shaft and each other.

A ball bearing is a rotary bearing which uses rolling spherical elements to provide low rotational friction support to an axle.

So in engspeak, a bearing is the generic term. A bushing indicates a bearing which offers radial sliding surface support or even only alignment (you can use bushings to hold an inner barrel concentric to an outer barrel even though the inner barrel is not intended to spin). A ball bearing indicates rolling spherical element support. A needle bearing indicates cylindrical element support for very high radial loads as the inner and outer races ride on cylinders instead of balls.

If only airsoft would ditch +ive and -ive threading. It's supposed to be right or left handed threads which is meaningfull in machining or even physics terminology. A right handed thread rotates clockwise to tighten. If your curled fingers on your right hand point towards the direction of rotation, your thumb points towards the direction of axial travel. A left handed thread indicates a similar principle.

If current passes through a coil in the direction of curled right fingers, the thumb indicates a northward polarity of magnetism. I have no clue where +ive and -ive comes from.
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Old May 10th, 2006, 14:17   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ILLusion
Quote:
Originally Posted by harleyb
Quote:
Originally Posted by shbadmintonclub
Quote:
Originally Posted by AirsoftPlayers.com
If you search the AirsoftZone forums, you will find older reports of the silenced piston heads actually coming apart inside of the mechbox. These reports haven't been substantiated very well recently, so since I have no problem entering my mechbox, I am willing to take that risk.
Source: AirsoftPlayers

Did Systema put a fix to this recently?
Things like that should have Loctite applied anyway. Plain common sense, doesn't matter if it's an airsoft gun or a motorcycle or an airplane.
Personally do not recommend.

The silent head sets are FULLY polycarbonate (read: PLASTIC). Loctite works well on metal to metal contact. The silent head sets are all some for of polymer. Loctite or threadlock compounds are all known to eat away at any kind of plastic.

Installing such head sets are done through experience:
1) knowing when "tight is tight enough" by manual installation without using any external compounds
2) Too much tightening where the threads will degrade
3) Too little tightening and the entire unit comes apart.

Understand that plastics are softer than metals, but at a certain point, will have the same holding point.
I think I'll stick with the stock piston head and just got with the bearing spring guide. With my G3 I've had an M120 in there for 2 years now with torque up gears, metal bushings, and that's it. Sitting at 182fps consistent and probably 20,000+ bb's through it. I'm going to order two bearing spring guides in and install them both in my G3 and the M4 I'm working on. Hopefully that will keep the stresses down for a while.

That article kinda made me leary of silent piston heads now. The fact that they can't truely be loctited and have a problem of potential seperation is not my idea of an ideal part. If the mechbox ever cracks due to the strain it will be upgraded to a reinforced box.
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Old May 10th, 2006, 19:54   #20
Mantelope
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Falcon_MB
I think I'll stick with the stock piston head and just got with the bearing spring guide. With my G3 I've had an M120 in there for 2 years now with torque up gears, metal bushings, and that's it. Sitting at 182fps consistent and probably 20,000+ bb's through it.
There is something seriously, seriously wrong with your gun.
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Old May 11th, 2006, 00:28   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harleyb
Quote:
Originally Posted by Falcon_MB
I think I'll stick with the stock piston head and just got with the bearing spring guide. With my G3 I've had an M120 in there for 2 years now with torque up gears, metal bushings, and that's it. Sitting at 182fps consistent and probably 20,000+ bb's through it.
There is something seriously, seriously wrong with your gun.
Err... what exactly do you mean by that? Sarcasm or what?
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Old May 11th, 2006, 01:05   #22
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He means a gun with an M120 should be firing WAY harder than 182.....try 370-380. See my PM for further info.
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Old May 11th, 2006, 15:35   #23
ILLusion
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182fps is below stock speeds. Consider stock is around 275fps.

Two of my guns with M120S' shoot over 420fps.

Regarding your concern with the silent head set, I would not worry about that. I have it in 3 of my guns and installed it in well over 20 other guns and have not had any problems with them disassembling.
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Old May 12th, 2006, 01:43   #24
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lol... typo on my part. Sorry guys meant 382, didn't even realize I had put that in.
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Old May 12th, 2006, 01:54   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ILLusion
182fps is below stock speeds. Consider stock is around 275fps.

Two of my guns with M120S' shoot over 420fps.

Regarding your concern with the silent head set, I would not worry about that. I have it in 3 of my guns and installed it in well over 20 other guns and have not had any problems with them disassembling.
When installing did you use any loctite? Or just snug it nicely without going so far as to put a bind on the plastic threads? As it's been stated I don't think loctite is a smart move on plastic/metal threading.
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