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Polishing & Re-Painting GBB Metal Slide

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Old January 28th, 2007, 20:41   #16
CDN_Stalker
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Rub over all the lines 90deg with a white Crayola crayon, then use your funger to rub off the excess on the upper surface, it also packs and smooths the surface of your trades making them look like paint that won't yellow.
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Old January 28th, 2007, 20:43   #17
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Originally Posted by pivot View Post
I think it all depends on how deep your trades are and how deep you go when you are sanding it down. You don't have to remove much material to get down to the base metal. You cant see the trades well from this pic and I don't have the gun anymore, but when I polished this slide and barrel it was pretty hacked before I got it. You can still see the trades on the barrel even though it was sanded poorly before I got it and I had to sand it some more. Forget stripping with chemicals, just hit it with some wet sandpaper, probably start with a 200 and go up from there until there are no more scratches. If you want a polished look like this gun, hit it with a polishing wheel. Takes no time at all.


I'll add this, not all metal slides are milled out of a solid piece of a luminum like this, some are just pot metal (namely G&G crappy slides) that won't polish like this.

Even though I think polished or even just silver Glock slides look like ass I gotta admit that one is nice!
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Old January 28th, 2007, 22:11   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CDN_Stalker View Post
Rub over all the lines 90deg with a white Crayola crayon, then use your funger to rub off the excess on the upper surface, it also packs and smooths the surface of your trades making them look like paint that won't yellow.
wont the crayon come off eventually? I mean.. it's not like crayon is an adhesive .. Is there any prep involved, or does it just go straight on?
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Old January 29th, 2007, 01:54   #19
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I agree that chrome or silveresque guns only look good if they match your teeth, and I normally wouldn't have done it, but I bought the gun second hand and someone already tried to half ass sand off the slide. I thought I'd giver er a whirl and see how easy it was. I sold it shortly after as it's a hard piece to match with your kit. Sorry to semi jack your thread.
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Old January 29th, 2007, 02:04   #20
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More off topic as it winds on -
On yellowed trades, is there any way to whiten non-engraved and/or etched trades?
(namely, the ones on my TM Mk23 silencer, which are also starting to look like 'alien piss')
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Old January 29th, 2007, 14:23   #21
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Non engraved trades are just paint, if you want to clean them up use mild soap and water. If they are too far gone, you'll probably want to get a detailing brush, a whole bunch of spare time, and touch them back up with some white paint.

Ingraved trades that are dirty as well can be 'cleaned out' with a pin or similar then 're-rubbed' with crayon as metioned.
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Old January 29th, 2007, 14:43   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kos View Post
wont the crayon come off eventually? I mean.. it's not like crayon is an adhesive .. Is there any prep involved, or does it just go straight on?
In places yes, eventually it'll wear off, but just have to reapply it every year or as needed. The reason you rub it with pressure and vigourously is to pack/compress the wax into the trades, as well as rub off the stuff on the surface. I still have full trades on a well worn KSC M11 that are intact (incidentally I used white all over but used red crayon on the FIRE part of the selector.)
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