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August 15th, 2008, 12:56 | #1 |
V3 gear box upgrade questions~
Hi All, I was wondering if you can help me with couple gearbox upgrade questions
1) Currently I have a m120 spring installed along with Guarder’s FTK’s gears, piston/piston head, plating cylinder, Air seal nozzle, with its Tappet plate (suppose to be stronger). However, because the poorly manufactured Guarder's stainless cylinder head (doesn't mount to casing properly), I am using Classic Army’s factory cylinder head(not stainless). Is this going to cause me issue in sometime soon, or distant future? On that note, will I loose any air pressure due to imcompatible pieces? (the last thing I want is to have a lower FPS rifle after upgrade) 2)If I uses classic army’s steel bushing instead of Guarder’s supplied bushing, would that also have some side effect in the future? (because I notice Guarder’s supplied bushing is no where near as flush in compare to classic army’s steel bushing Last edited by jdyahoo; August 15th, 2008 at 13:27.. |
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August 15th, 2008, 13:09 | #2 |
The CA factory cylinder head should hold up. However, I've heard that bore-up kits use a cylinder head with a bigger nozzle. Why are you using a bore-up kit in the first place, and what's the gun?
Unless there's something noticibly wrong with the CA bushings, there's no need to change them.
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"The Bird of Hermes is My Name, Eating My Wings to Make Me Tame." |
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August 15th, 2008, 13:21 | #3 |
Thanks for the response saint,
* Clarification - Upon further investigation from WGC shop, i don't think it was a bored-up kit.....phew~~~ To answer your question: because it was an FTK kit, that comes with bored up everything and bunch of accessories. So while doing the swap, I thought I upgrade everything using what's supplied in the kit. However, stupid as I am, I didn't really notices that Guarder's stainless cylinder head was poorly manufactured until I try to close the gearbox. The hole that holds the cylinder head to the gearbox was not a perfect circular shape as compared to the CA factory cylinder. In fact it was somewhat oval, if I look at it VERY closely. So I end up switching back just the cylinder head. The gun in question was a G36K. Last edited by jdyahoo; August 15th, 2008 at 13:26.. |
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August 15th, 2008, 13:29 | #4 |
I've had problem with fitting aftermarket cylinder head into a CA v3 mechbox before.
Apparently, CA v3 is slightly off spec compared to standard v2/3 cylinder heads. See: http://www.airsoftparts.ca/store2/in...order=6&page=3
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"The Bird of Hermes is My Name, Eating My Wings to Make Me Tame." |
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August 15th, 2008, 13:39 | #5 |
Hey Saint,
According to some of the post on form, they indicated that The cylinder head is one half (the stationary half) of the compression cycle of the cylinder set. It controls the flow of air out of the cylinder. If it's misshapen, or the o-ring is buggered, you lose compression (and thus velocity and range). The stock TM Cylinder Head is a single o-ring design, made of plastic with a metal "throat" that leads to the Loading Nozzle. I replaced mine with the Guarder Steel Cylinder Head, which has double o-rings. Since it is made of steel (not plastic) it should be harder to warp/deform, and combined with the dual o-rings should give me great compression for a long time In this case, would the factory cylinder head warp after a period of usage? |
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August 15th, 2008, 13:41 | #6 |
I wouldn't worry about it. If you're that concerned, pick up the cylinder head I linked to.
__________________
"The Bird of Hermes is My Name, Eating My Wings to Make Me Tame." |
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August 15th, 2008, 13:43 | #7 |
Thanks for the advise
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August 15th, 2008, 13:45 | #8 |
Tys
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I don't think that you'll run into any longevity/durability issues that are directly attributable to mixing different brands of parts...as long as the parts are setup properly.
With the spring/spring guide out of the mechbox and the rest of the parts installed (the mechbox is laid open), disconnect the tappet plate spring (or better yet take the tappet plat and nozzle out for now). Ensure that the cylinder head/cylinder is positioned in the mechbox and place the piston all the way into the cylinder until it bottoms out. Gently turn the sector gear until the first tooth of the sector gear engages the most rearward (1st) tooth of the piston. If it is engaging nicely then you should be ok to go. If the sector gear tooth is hitting the piston's 2nd tooth then your piston/piston head/cylinder head combo is too long. If you run it like that the sector gear will eventually (or maybe very quickly) mash your piston, at the very least if you're lucky. If the sector gear tooth is hitting the piston's 1st tooth, or engages it "early", then your combo is too short. You can put a washer between to the piston and piston head to lengthen it, but be sure that it's a good fit. If in doubt, and if it looks ok but maybe just a hair off...I'd run it for a couple of hundred shots and then tear it down to inspect for wear. You can also drill out (just a little) the Guarder cylinder head to make it fit your mechbox. Sometimes all it takes is a little beveling of the holes to get it in place. |
August 15th, 2008, 13:53 | #9 |
following the information from this site, I actually can swap/upgrade v3 gears box in under 30 minutes....
http://www.mechbox.com/mechbox/v3-me...spring-upgrade |
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August 15th, 2008, 14:01 | #10 |
Tys
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Doing it quick is easy...and once your gears/piston engagement/compression/etc. is sorted out then sure...spring swaps to hit different power levels are really straight forward.
Best of luck! |
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