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Old February 19th, 2010, 19:24   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Windows View Post
It means you have an internal short somewhere in the circuit, you will need to open the mech box up and inspect all conections. I would recomend this be done by an experienced gun doc, or if you own and know how to operate a multi meter and are experienced with taking things apart you could try it yourself, mechbox tutorials can be found by searching around.
Yes, I got someone to look at it who is good with electronics. They confirmed that I needed a new motor.

Now my question is do I need a motor specific to this gun?
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Old February 19th, 2010, 20:37   #32
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Originally Posted by Jackarutu View Post
Someone asked why did the fuse blow. Based on the type of current draw these motors cause on startup I've never understood why the factories haven't provided slow blow fuses. True, they do cost more.

And someone else asked why remove the fuse from the circuit. Because, the OEM type are just an additional piece of junk waiting to cause high resistance in the circuit and decrease the weapons performance. That said I have noticed some companies are starting to use a higher grade of fuse holder and a different type of fuse other the glass ones which are not associated with causing high impedance.
What the hell do you mean Glass Fuses cause impedance?!, because that sounds like what your saying, nearly all fuses have very very little resistance/impedance that won't make a difference, i don't think you totally understand everything but your right with the slow burn fuse because in nearly any case there useful but the resistance in a fuse will not be an issue in airsoft guns. If I'm not interpreting what you saying correctly then just correct me. ;P

Last edited by Ripperman79; February 19th, 2010 at 20:39..
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Old February 19th, 2010, 20:56   #33
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Originally Posted by Decimator 3000 View Post
Yes, I got someone to look at it who is good with electronics. They confirmed that I needed a new motor.

Now my question is do I need a motor specific to this gun?
Yes you do. I'm not too knowledgeable on motors however they make short medium and long motors. All you have to worry about is picking the right motor for your model.

Most of the time it will be a short or long motor. IIRC AK's use short motors and M4's and MP5's use long motors. Medium ones are used by some oddball models the PSG-1 and something else I think. Don't know about the G36 though but taking a guess I'd probably guess it's a long motor.

As for where, airsoftparts.ca likely has what you need. I believe the consensus is that the Guarder Infinite Torque Long motor was the best in terms of price for performance however if you're willing to do it SystemA makes some good ones it seems like. They released a new "Energy" motor recently so maybe check that out. I could not make sense of the graphs that they had but from what I can tell it's supposed to be "revolutionary" to airsoft motors (but it comes at a high price point as with all bleeding edge technology).
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Last edited by L473ncy; February 19th, 2010 at 20:58..
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Old February 19th, 2010, 20:57   #34
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Decimator 3000:

“I just bought this gun 3 weeks ago for quite a bit of money and needless to say I'm more than a bit frustrated.”

If I’m safe to assume that means the weapon was a new one (not a used one) then . . .

1. First it’s not beyond the realm of possibility that you do indeed have a shorted motor and it needs to be replaced but if you do you must be the most unlucky person in your town.

2. But that would be the last item on my list of suspects of what could be wrong with your weapon

3. True you could have gotten a faulty put together motor from the factory but the chances of that seem very slim to me.

4. You have to do one heck of a lot of shooting to wear out a motor to the point it would cause a direct short.

5. Striped pinion gears are a much more common motor failure but they don’t cause a short.

6. Before you condemn the motor look for shorts where the wiring could be pinched between the casting halves of the gearbox or anywhere else the B+ could short to the common.
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Old February 19th, 2010, 21:03   #35
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G36 uses a short type motor.

Has a motor cage very similar to the AK.

I would recommend a G&P M120 for a cheap, solid motor.
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Old February 19th, 2010, 21:07   #36
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Ripperman79

"If I'm not interpreting what you saying correctly then just correct me."

I was not claiming the fuses themselves are inherently high impedance but rather that the cheap fuse holder are or can become with use and age.

In high humid areas I'm sure you have seen green on the connections
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Old February 19th, 2010, 21:23   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jackarutu View Post
Ripperman79

"If I'm not interpreting what you saying correctly then just correct me."

I was not claiming the fuses themselves are inherently high impedance but rather that the cheap fuse holder are or can become with use and age.

In high humid areas I'm sure you have seen green on the connections
Ok now i get what you mean but if the connectors on the fuse is turning green you have a bigger problem then fuses....
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Old February 20th, 2010, 18:13   #38
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So can anyone confirm whether I need a long or short motor?
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Old February 20th, 2010, 19:25   #39
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Originally Posted by Decimator 3000 View Post
So can anyone confirm whether I need a long or short motor?
I just checked it out at redwolf and it looks like it's a short motor that you need. Short Motor for AK /AUG /G36 /M1A1

http://redwolfairsoft.com/redwolf/ai...l?prodID=13942

and airsoft parts has it in stock so you're pretty much good to go: http://www.airsoftparts.ca/store2/in...oducts_id=1189
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Old February 20th, 2010, 20:50   #40
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Originally Posted by Decimator 3000 View Post
So can anyone confirm whether I need a long or short motor?
G36 is short motor. But if this gun is only 3 weeks old, get the vendor to send you a new one.
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Old February 25th, 2010, 20:39   #41
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Okay I bought a new motor and it still didn't work.

This part of the gun appears to be snapped in half. (Outlined In Green)

http://s740.photobucket.com/albums/x...g36cbroken.png

I tried super gluing it and it worked for about 2.5 seconds before sounding like a dental drill.
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Old February 26th, 2010, 00:13   #42
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thats the selector plate i think.

http://www.airsoftparts.ca/store2/in...roducts_id=616
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Old February 26th, 2010, 00:18   #43
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... You've screwed up more than just your selector plate if it sounds like a dentist's drill.

Take it to a reputable gundoc.
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Old February 26th, 2010, 00:50   #44
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Yes, for god's sake take it to someone who knows what they're doing.
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Old February 26th, 2010, 03:58   #45
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Okay I've ordered a new selector plate, should be here is a couple days.

If that doesn't work I will definitely see a Gun doc.
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