Ics-127 ris full metal !

[teriases]

Its here!

Finally got mine 2 days ago!

Very solid, VERY accurate, VERY VERY VERY easy to disassemble!!! One thing however - the marking on it is ICS No S&W, Navy Seals, etc... Just ye classic ICS...

But besides that, I am so happy with mine... ^^ Anyone else ordered one? Anyone ordered the new ICS MP5s with the split gear box?

[Cokeman]

Hello,

I'm also thinking about getting an ICS-128. I was hoping to get some info from you regarding your ICS-127.

Did you have your stock rifle chrono'd? What was the velocity of a 0.2 g bb?

Have you considered changing the spring (from M100 to a M120) to get a higher velocity?

Does the manual state that the existing gearbox can handle a strong spring (M120) to fire at near 400 fps?

Thanks

[Sportco]

Yeap ics-127 is fine for M120 spring upgrade it got the turbo 3000 High Torque motor and metal bushings

http://bunker.pt/index.php?main_page...08&language=en

Full metal Body.
- Modular Metal Gear Box.
- M100 Sping (300 - 330 FPS).
- Motor Turbo 3000 High Torque.
- Metal R.I.S. System.
- Steel Bushings.
- Cylinder Crane Stock.

But... @ 320 fps (avrg) if you go for a prometheus 363mm 6.03 (about plus 20 fps) and do a blueprinting job on the upper gearbox (about plus 15 fps)
you are @ 360 to 375 fps without any un due stress on your battery and gearbox ((that extra 20 fps extracts a heavy toll on the gun with marginal advantage when you think about it plus you get 25 to 35% more play time (read "SHOTS") from your battery

So if you upgrade de barrel, replace de piston and head with good stuff... and your set for a trouble free airsoft career...
Cheers

Pete

[sundae_1021]

Originally Posted by Sportco

and do a blueprinting job on the upper gearbox Pete

sorry for this question, but, what do you mean, "blueprinting" job on the upper gearbox? Thanks.

[Sportco]

Oh boy... longer to write then to actually do!!!

Here we go... on a ICS M4 split gearbox!the two halves of the upper gearbox castings are a bit crude.. ruff

Two problems

1) The ruff surface or the casting literally grinds the piston and the particules contaminate the whole gearbox (remember that sandpaper is grit glued to a sheet of paper... if you put the grit in grease... it's still sandpaper!!!)
So by doing that you actually reduce piston, gear, seal and cylinder wear drasticaly plus you (IF you polish the whole gearbox) eliminate most stress risers (crack will developpe in those imperfections) think sheet of paper with a small tear in it, if you pull that is were it will fail (tear up)

2) that friction slows down mouvement (piston and nosle plate) makes it harder for the gears and motor.... plus slows down stroke

((smoother cycle = more FPS, faster ROF and less wear obviously))

PLUS your upper gearbox looks like a millions bucks
----------------------------------------------------------------------

So what you do is you disassemble your upper and you prep the piston guiding tracks ( clean the halves with a toothbrush and liquid dish detergeant in a warm bath)

a) with a wet 600 paper and the proper tickness solid block you run the paper up and down the valley until all asperities are gone. (sharp corner too)

Note: If the paper doesnt have solid (hard) backing) it will smooth the whole area WITH the bump still in it ((take has little of has you can)) if you cant feel it with your finger... it's not going to slow down anything much

b) Using metal polish (I LOVE autosol) (on Q-Tips and/or shaped toilet paper) complete channel polishing

c) do the area were the nosel plate grinds

optional d) do the whole int/ext bit because now you've become obscessive compulsive

e) when you regrease use synthetic teflon grease ((has little has necessary))
People put to much grease because they think if's better an end up gunking up the whole thing

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Every 50000 bb's (in clean none desert condition) crack the upper gearbox open, clean (dish liquid again) check piston condition remove o-ring (on piston head) and decontaminate o-ring (LDD again) plus a bit of rubbing with a coton cloth , replace if condition is altered

Remember that sand will find it's way into a SCELLED gearbox so if you play in a sand box... guess what your doing that night!!!

Check cylinder ((if it's brass) and you feel weard things (very... no extremely politely repolish the inside with autosol (metal polish)

PS you can renew the exteror shine with brazo metal polish also


reclean with LDD dry with clean coton rag, remove dust, regrease inside out and store in a ziplock bag until reinstallation

If your cylinder is chrome or stainless it shouldnt have that much wear, if so use Autosol (metal polish) here too

Beware that if you polish the cylinder to much at some point you will lose compression (( bare in mind that clean well lubricated o-ring and piston is the secret to minimal cylinder wear.

Questions, comments... insults

Cheers

Pete

Originally Posted by sundae_1021

sorry for this question, but, what do you mean, "blueprinting" job on the upper gearbox? Thanks.