We Scar Accuracy

[Ross]

Hi guys. My we scar's accuracy is the pitts. I know that the gun itself is inaccurate by nature but mine is really inaccurate.

I have researched ways to fix it but they don't seem to work. what it feels like to me is that the hop up doesn't work. i've put a few thousand rounds through the gun and the hop up is dry. After still having problems i replaced the stock hop up with the stinger one. Fired a few thousand rounds through it again and made sure the hop up is dry and there is no change. The bbs hook all over the place. It's like the hop up is working but chooses a random spot on the bb to give spin. After 100 feet the bb goes rogue and fly mostly left or right. When the hop up is adjusted it does affect the vertical trajectory but not the side to side one.

I played around with the hop up. Even removed some paper shims and then put them back later. I replaced the knocker valve and that one that slides up and down, and I installed that npas. The gun works fine in those aspects. Although when I pull the charging handle there is a lot of resistance. This only started happening after the npas was installed. The gun functions fine, but it's as if the npas has a slightly wider diameter than the brass tube. so it squishes in there and requires extra force.

So after assuming it's the hop up, I bought another stinger hop up just to be sure that's not the problem. Installed it, and after a 1000 rounds the groupings are still larger than my apartment. Also the overall range of the gun is just over 100 feet. which is sad because it does fire at 410 fps using .28s.

I had the bb chopping issue with the gun as well, but i modified all my magazines with a piece of credit card and I think that problem stopped. I purchased a "precision barrel" from ratech. Still waiting for it in the mail. I'm hoping that may solve some of this, but I doubt it. I was wondering what else I can do to troubleshoot this problem. If there is anything else I can buy or anything I can check on my gun that would cause this. Any replies are appreciated.

Respectfully yours,
Ross Fox

Ps: See figure A below for visualization of problem.
http://i1032.photobucket.com/albums/.../blah/FIGA.jpg

[DoctorBadVibez]

hmmmm do you have that little nub on the hop up? it looks like a little plastic cylinder, I had similar issues, once I reseated in completely flat, it worked for me.

[Ross]

Ah, I know what you are talking about. I looked at the hop up positioning. It looked fine. If I look down the copper tube I can see it there. I took the gun apart this evening the hop up is only 1000 rounds old and it's yellowed and the nub looks damaged. I'm not sure if that's what the hop ups look like when they're "broken in", but it makes me believe that the bbs are chopping in the gun and slicing up the hop up. I also noticed that the little black rubber piece that sits up against the hopup rubber is not perfectly cylindrical. I wonder if that affects the bb's path. Oh and does anyone know what kind of grease I should be using to lubricate the bolt carrier? Silicone oil evaporates too fast.

[Riko]

About the grease, gonna use this:

Gonna post if it seems okay to use, since i still have to apply it.

[Ross]

I assume that would work. As long as it doesn't have the flammable symbol on it. Some greases eat o-rings.

[DoctorBadVibez]

Originally Posted by Ross

Ah, I know what you are talking about. I looked at the hop up positioning. It looked fine. If I look down the copper tube I can see it there. I took the gun apart this evening the hop up is only 1000 rounds old and it's yellowed and the nub looks damaged. I'm not sure if that's what the hop ups look like when they're "broken in", but it makes me believe that the bbs are chopping in the gun and slicing up the hop up. I also noticed that the little black rubber piece that sits up against the hopup rubber is not perfectly cylindrical. I wonder if that affects the bb's path. Oh and does anyone know what kind of grease I should be using to lubricate the bolt carrier? Silicone oil evaporates too fast.

That bb chopping issue seems prevalent in most WE or like bolt design based rifles. After you replace the hop up sleeve and nub, I would suggest trying semi only, perhaps you will get some wear in to the parts. From what I've learnt in the airsoft world, some wear to get part seated is good. Now, to deal with the lube debacle, there is something I personally use and field on any of my guns; a lot of you may find this either controversial or insightful, to each their own but it's worked for me from air pistols to AEGs with great results, I use Trinity Super Silicone light weight shock oil, this way it's designed to be used on rc car shocks which have rubber damper rings and silicon oil rings, that stuff sticks! You have to make sure to use a light weight rating (also helps with picking out an oil with a lighter viscosity) but you do get a far superior sealing affect that spray silicone. I've used the same on my heavily trusted TM SR16 with a v2 mechbox for the piston assembly and I'm happy to report that I have nothing but success.

[Ross]

Originally Posted by DoctorBadVibez

That bb chopping issue seems prevalent in most WE or like bolt design based rifles. After you replace the hop up sleeve and nub, I would suggest trying semi only, perhaps you will get some wear in to the parts. From what I've learnt in the airsoft world, some wear to get part seated is good. Now, to deal with the lube debacle, there is something I personally use and field on any of my guns; a lot of you may find this either controversial or insightful, to each their own but it's worked for me from air pistols to AEGs with great results, I use Trinity Super Silicone light weight shock oil, this way it's designed to be used on rc car shocks which have rubber damper rings and silicon oil rings, that stuff sticks! You have to make sure to use a light weight rating (also helps with picking out an oil with a lighter viscosity) but you do get a far superior sealing affect that spray silicone. I've used the same on my heavily trusted TM SR16 with a v2 mechbox for the piston assembly and I'm happy to report that I have nothing but success.

Fortunately there is a magazine modification that fixes the bb chopping issue. I replaced the nub but not the sleeve. I also installed a new barrel. I find silicone lube to be good for about 2 magazines worth of shooting, then the bolt carrier is dry as a bone and won't slide around. One guy uses dry teflon coating with amazing results, but they don't sell teflon spray anywhere in canada. Fail. I definitely use silicone oil on the o-rings. but it just doesn't last long on the carrier.

[PugsleyAdams]

Originally Posted by Ross

Fortunately there is a magazine modification that fixes the bb chopping issue. I replaced the nub but not the sleeve. I also installed a new barrel. I find silicone lube to be good for about 2 magazines worth of shooting, then the bolt carrier is dry as a bone and won't slide around. One guy uses dry teflon coating with amazing results, but they don't sell teflon spray anywhere in canada. Fail. I definitely use silicone oil on the o-rings. but it just doesn't last long on the carrier.

I have actually seen the Teflon spray at Part Source!

[coach]

Originally Posted by Ross

Fortunately there is a magazine modification that fixes the bb chopping issue. I replaced the nub but not the sleeve. I also installed a new barrel. I find silicone lube to be good for about 2 magazines worth of shooting, then the bolt carrier is dry as a bone and won't slide around. One guy uses dry teflon coating with amazing results, but they don't sell teflon spray anywhere in canada. Fail. I definitely use silicone oil on the o-rings. but it just doesn't last long on the carrier.

You need to lube the bolt carrier aside from just the oil coming from the mag.

A light to liberal coating should get you shooting many mags without it binding up on you.

Get some of this from CT:
Ultra Slick Multipurpose Silicone Grease by Permatex.

[Amos]

Ross come see me

I've got Specially designed lubricants for gearbox and GBBR's that work fantastically.

the problem you're having with silicon oil is because it's too light, you need a grease, not an oil

[joey1107]

Hey Ross,and fellow airsofters
I have the same problem with the bbs going everywhere.
Did you ever fix this problem? And how?
Thanks

Joe

[Ross]

Originally Posted by PugsleyAdams

I have actually seen the Teflon spray at Part Source!

OMG part source was the second store I tried and they gave me funny looks like I was on crack. Many stores claimed the product didn't exist and that I was mistaken.

[PugsleyAdams]

Originally Posted by Ross

OMG part source was the second store I tried and they gave me funny looks like I was on crack. Many stores claimed the product didn't exist and that I was mistaken.

The last time I was there they had it! Mind you, I live in St. Catharines, Ontario....but still, you'd think if one has it they all would! Aside from the fact that PS is a division of CT!

[DoctorBadVibez]

Originally Posted by Amos

Ross come see me

I've got Specially designed lubricants for gearbox and GBBR's that work fantastically.

the problem you're having with silicon oil is because it's too light, you need a grease, not an oil

I wholeheartedly agree sir, I should clarify also that the shock oil I use is more of a grease too. I find it a tad disturbing that folks are encouraged to use light silicone spray on aegs and gbbrs based on the amount of stress and speed that these guns are subjected to. May I ask if the grease you're talking about might be a heavy weight silicone based grease? Also, I know that Teflon spray is hard to come by but has anyone used spray on dry graphite lube on GBBRs?

[grantmac]

That Sticky G silicone lubricant is repackaged plumbers lube. Same consistency and materials content.
Plumbers lube is available everywhere, its food safe, rubber safe and very sticky.

I use it for all o-rings on my GBBR. For anything involving metal I use moly. Realistically moly is rubber safe so it could be used for both.

-Grant