WE AK steel trigger group installation guide

[Rommen]

A guide to installing RATech steel replacement trigger parts in a WE AK series gbbr.

Note that this is my first review or guide to anything, so please let me know if I missed something. Also, I am not a professional photographer so the pictures might not be perfect (I still tried to get the best possible shot though).

Tools Required: Philips screwdriver, 1.5mm allen key, 2mm allen key, punch, soft faced punch (wooden dowel works well)

To begin, remove the bolt carrier and return spring.


Step 1: Removing trigger box
Unscrew pistol grip using philips screwdriver


Using a 1.5mm allen key, remove the small screw that holds the safety lever on.


With the screw removed, simply pull the safety lever off the gun. You may have to wiggle or pry it a bit.


Using a punch, tap for forward pin out. It should come out easily.


Using a 2mm allen key, remove the 4 screw holding the trigger guard in place. This step is not necessary for parts installation, but makes the job much easier.


The gun should look like this when done.


Rotate the fire selector towards the rear so that it faces upwards, then pull up to remove. It's a tight fit so you might have to rock it a bit.




The trigger box should now be free. Remove it from the receiver.


Step 2: Opening the trigger box
*An important note on functionality* The lever on the right side of the trigger box must be pushed forward in order to release the hammer from a cocked position. If the trigger is pulled while the lever is at rest, the hammer will release slightly and needs to be pushed down again in order to release properly (with the lever forward).

The hammer will not release.


The hammer will now release with a trigger pull.


Let's open this up. Using a punch, remove the pin that the trigger sits on. Make sure the hammer is released before doing this.


These are the parts you should have after removal.


Use a soft-faced punch to remove the brass roller. Swap out the trigger and sear with your fancy steel parts.




Lube up the roller if needed and reinsert it. You should now have what you had before, except made of steel. Place these parts to the side for now.

WARNING! From this point on there will be several parts under tension and tiny, tiny springs which like to go flying. Work slowly and be careful not to lose them.

Carefully remove the spring that locks into the firing pin.


Use a philips screwdriver to remove the two screws on the front left side of the trigger box.


Remove the cover. I needed both hands for this part so there is no image, lol.

This is the cover plate once you take it off. Remove the pot metal valve locker, clean and lube the cover, and install your steel valve locker. Only the firing pin and hammer to go.




And the inside of the box, for reference.


Time to take out the rest of the parts from the trigger box. Start with the firing pin block lever, part 97. It simply slides off. Place it to the side.


Next remove the firing pin. Note the position and orientation of the small spring that goes through the middle of the firing pin. Careful not to lose this spring, it is under quite a bit of tension. It is easier to slide the firing pin out if you pull the hammer back slightly to relieve tension on the firing pin.


Only the hammer is left. Use a punch (or your fingers) to remove the pin it sits on.


Remove the hammer.


This is the hammer. Remove the brass roller and spring, then swap with the steel hammer. Reassemble the new hammer.




This is as far as disassembly goes. All parts should be replaced with RATech steel parts now. Clean and lube everything. I recommend SuperLube and a drop of silicon oil.

[Rommen]

Step 3: Reassembling the trigger box
Reassemble the hammer


Reinstall the trigger. Arrange the springs on both sides like in the picture.


Carefully insert this into the trigger box so that the front ends of the springs rest on the edges circled in the picture. This will probably take a few tries.


Once everything lines up, put the trigger pin back in.


Reinstall the hammer. You will need to move the lever on the right side of the trigger box (part 87) forward slightly to get the hammer in its hole.


Place the hammer into its place. Reinsert the hammer pin.




Next, reinstall the firing pin and firing pin spring. It is easier to work with the hammer cocked for this part.


Slide the firing pin spring onto its post, oriented like in the picture. It will be under moderate tension at this point. It is important to get this right, so I included 2 pictures...not sure which is clearer.




Replace the firing pin block lever (part 97) on the same post as the firing pin spring.


Next place the firing pin in so that the firing pin spring goes through the middle of the pin, providing tension towards the back of the trigger box.


The firing pin will be under tension; to hold it in place, SLOWLY release the hammer (remember to push the lever, part 87, forward in order for the trigger to release the hammer).


All the parts should be in. Replace the cover. You may have to fiddle with the valve locked and hammer pin until everything lines up. Note that the valve locker will have to be slightly depressed to let the firing pin fit through.


With the cover back on, replace the spring that locks into the firing pin.


And then the 2 screws. The hardest part is over! You now have a complete trigger box.


Step 4: Reassemble gun
Place trigger box in receiver


Replace the front pin.


Reinstall the pistol grip.


Reinstall trigger guard.


Reinstall the (new, steel) fire selector. Get it into its slot upside down, then rotate it down into position.




Place the safety lever back on the gun. It might be a tight fit; hammering it on may be required. If you find you just can't get it on tight enough, bend it slightly so it is firm against the receiver (I had to do this).


Once the safety lever is on, secure it to the fire selector with the screw.


Reinstall the bolt and return spring.


Close the cover, pop in a mag and test fire! Your sexy new steel parts should work flawlessly. There will be a break in period of ~1500 rounds to get the parts properly worn in. Also note that the bolt carrier is made of pot metal and wears against the steel hammer - this will be a source of continuous wear. Don't worry too much as the bolt carrier is a big piece of metal, but a steel replacement sure would be nice : P



Let me know how I did on this guide. If you liked it I might do more in the future.

[TPM001]

Great guide! Thanks! I know for a few people that working with trigger boxes is a daunting task. This should help clear things up.

When putting the fire selector back in, be mindful of the semi/auto positioning. I find that the RaTech parts require more precision than the stock parts in the positioning of the selector.

Also should note there will definitely be a break in period. The operation with the new parts may not be smooth at the beginning but over time, they become buttery smooth.

[MilanWG]

How many rounds do you estimate the "break in period" is?

[HeadlessChicken]

Awesome, now I just need the new trigger group before mine breaks.

[Brian McIlmoyle]

Originally Posted by MilanWG

How many rounds do you estimate the "break in period" is?

Mine had some soft strikes, and resulting mag venting for maybe the first 8- 10 mags .. but now seems to be fine.. no issues reported from the ROs who where managing the Range at the convention.. the AK probably had 100 hands on it that day

[jamex]

Awesome guide. Gives me the confidence to at least try it before running straight to a doc

The bolt carrier appears larger\thicker than the other WE GBBRs so maybe it'll last longer but agree it would be nice to know you have the option of a steel replacement in case it ever cracked in half.

[Brian McIlmoyle]

Originally Posted by jamex

Awesome guide. Gives me the confidence to at least try it before running straight to a doc

The bolt carrier appears larger\thicker than the other WE GBBRs so maybe it'll last longer but agree it would be nice to know you have the option of a steel replacement in case it ever cracked in half.

If I can do the swap.. anyone can..

The bolt carrier will last, it's like a pound of cast potmetal.. a lot of wear would have to happen before it started to affect performance

[Rommen]

After shooting ~1500 rounds after doing the swap, I examined the bolt where it strikes the hammer. A shallow groove had started to form. I expect this groove will get deeper over time, possibly eventually affecting performance. Make sure to keep this area and the hammer well lubricated. You also may consider polishing the surfaces - anything to reduce friction.

[N_Force]

Originally Posted by Rommen

Step 3: Reassembling the trigger box


Reinstall the trigger. Arrange the springs on both sides like in the picture.





Once everything lines up, put the trigger pin back in.

in top picture, both springs#102 left and right are reversed. these two springs are mirror design to fit in support. if you reverse them could make it stuck in the opening space during movement. but your bottom picture shows the install is corrected.



the picture below may be easy to understand what i mean for the positioning on left and right

[turok_t]

Originally Posted by jamex

Awesome guide. Gives me the confidence to at least try it before running straight to a doc

The bolt carrier appears larger\thicker than the other WE GBBRs so maybe it'll last longer but agree it would be nice to know you have the option of a steel replacement in case it ever cracked in half.

Replacing the trigger group for the WE AK is one of the easiest thing to do, even a monkey can do it. Its pretty simple and its just a quick swap of the parts, no modifications required. It took me literally 10 minutes to replace the parts. However, I decided to use my stock selector plate instead of the RAtech one for various reasons.

[MilanWG]

I just installed the trigger group.

Semi works fine - but full auto is not working...

edit: I tried using the stock selector plate instead of the RAtech and I get the same thing - no auto fire.

Whats up?

[N_Force]

pm'd, how's going?

Originally Posted by MilanWG

I just installed the trigger group.

Semi works fine - but full auto is not working...

edit: I tried using the stock selector plate instead of the RAtech and I get the same thing - no auto fire.

Whats up?

[Brayden]

^ If anyone would send me their extra piece that is being touched here i'd appreciate it

Here is the full side view of it, its part #88- it would save me 120$ if you don't plan on keeping it anyways. PM me.


Apologies for hijack, OT really nice guide lots of pictures, makes this idiot proof.

[N_Force]

good luck to you, my friend. I think we might have to spend $115 to upgrade the 6 pieces trigger set. Mine was broken already and waiting to have enough money to get them. not only this, but also the spring for the hammer one was broken too. I picked up an old piece of M4 hammer spring and cut it in shape, seems work. what a fun time for me. damn...

broken part88 firing pin

broken part93 hammer spring

Originally Posted by Brayden

^ If anyone would send me their extra piece that is being touched here i'd appreciate it

Here is the full side view of it, its part #88- it would save me 120$ if you don't plan on keeping it anyways.


Apologies for hijack.