Favorite Hi capa trigger?

[Chairmanlao]

What is your favorite Hi Capa trigger? And why? I see some beautiful and sexy hi capa builds on this forum and thus I only bother with knowing your answer.

I'm currently in the market for one. A.S? Pro4? AIP? PDI? Heard of many, but what to hear from some of you.
I know Illusion here has some great ones. I'm also looking for one that can be adjusted? (Is that a thing?) With that oversized screw (right?) Gah, first time with the trigger system.

[shootersaber]

Originally Posted by Chairmanlao

What is your favorite Hi Capa trigger? And why? I see some beautiful and sexy hi capa builds on this forum and thus I only bother with knowing your answer.

I'm currently in the market for one. A.S? Pro4? AIP? PDI? Heard of many, but what to hear from some of you.
I know Illusion here has some great ones. I'm also looking for one that can be adjusted? (Is that a thing?) With that oversized screw (right?) Gah, first time with the trigger system.

I think the guarder one is the best. I like this :

Don't buy the A.S. one. I tried already, always jam. NOT GOOD!!!

[p.phresh]

I have a ProG4 trigger in a stock grip with a ProG4 mag release.... REALLY nice compared to the stock setup.

The trigger is serrated and it is flat instead of rounded, and I've found it has some really good grip compared to others I've tried (AIP, 5KU).

[RacingManiac]

I like the SVI style ones that I think Airsoft Surgeon makes AS replica of. I do like the flatter style trigger better than curved ones...

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by Chairmanlao

What is your favorite Hi Capa trigger? And why? I see some beautiful and sexy hi capa builds on this forum and thus I only bother with knowing your answer.

I'm currently in the market for one. A.S? Pro4? AIP? PDI? Heard of many, but what to hear from some of you.
I know Illusion here has some great ones. I'm also looking for one that can be adjusted? (Is that a thing?) With that oversized screw (right?) Gah, first time with the trigger system.

My personal favourite are the Freedom Art flat triggers:



They have a feel to them that I have not been able to get replicated in the ILLusion Kinetics triggers.

As an fyi, ILLusion Kinetics = Airsoft Surgeon = ProG4

All of these I've mentioned have the overtravel adjustment screw.

PDI... I've had mixed opinion with those. The first few I had were very wobbly, and did not have an overtravel adjustment screw. I drilled and tapped my own in, but felt I shouldn't have had to do that. Their new run (very limited styles) has this screw, but one thing that always bugged me about PDI triggers, is their lack of replication to any real world trigger. That's just me, and a personal preference. I'm sure many users out there couldn't care less. Anyways, PDI triggers are finished very nice. Typical Japanese manufacturing.

The KM ones are nice, but found most of them to be a tad too wide. They fit fine in the stock grip, but require fitment to get in to a Shooters Design grip due to the thickness. These are built very solid. Again, typical Japanese manufacturing with a sublime finish.

Freedom Art, again, typical Japanese manufacturing with a sublime finish. I just like the feel of their flat trigger the most.

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by shootersaber

I think the guarder one is the best. I like this :

Don't buy the A.S. one. I tried already, always jam. NOT GOOD!!!

Define "jam". Are you sure you don't have the overtravel screw turned in too much? If it's turned in too much, it will prevent you from pulling the trigger back far enough to allow the hammer to break if you have it set too high. All kinds of issues can occur if you don't have it set properly. Even if you can get the hammer to break, you may have issues with reset.

I use the Guarder one a lot in builds for budget conscious buyers. They're great for the price, but with the cheap price, comes cheap manufacturing. It has rough edges. Not enough to cut your finger, but they're present. In any case, it works well for what it's suppose to do. It's just not as nicely finished as most other products available out there.

[Chairmanlao]

Originally Posted by ILLusion

Define "jam". Are you sure you don't have the overtravel screw turned in too much? If it's turned in too much, it will prevent you from pulling the trigger back far enough to allow the hammer to break.

I use the Guarder one a lot in builds for budget conscious buyers. They're great for the price, but with the cheap price, comes cheap manufacturing. It has rough edges. Not enough to cut your finger, but they're present. In any case, it works well for what it's suppose to do. It's just not as nicely finished as most other products available out there.

ILLusion, thank you for the input. Its always a pleasure to read your posts.

With that said, since i'm ordering from Evike I might as well just pick this up (?)
http://www.evike.com/product_info.ph...ducts_id=32255

I'm not so worried about the price, as too how it will work..... My budget is about like (up to) 40 bucks. I just want DAT LIGHT TRIGGER PULL.

Now with the left over money I can go buy a new trigger stir up (damn for no longer having that Illusion huge sale post)

[RacingManiac]

I think one of the thing that changes the feel of the trigger the most is the trigger bow/stirrup...going to the wirecut ProG4/IK/AS style one changes how the trigger feels by a lot, as it does not flex like the stock TM ones...

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by Chairmanlao

ILLusion, thank you for the input. Its always a pleasure to read your posts.

With that said, since i'm ordering from Evike I might as well just pick this up (?)
http://www.evike.com/product_info.ph...ducts_id=32255

I'm not so worried about the price, as too how it will work..... My budget is about like (up to) 40 bucks. I just want DAT LIGHT TRIGGER PULL.

If you want a light trigger pull, you are looking at the completely wrong product. The trigger itself has nothing to do with pull weight. The first parts you should consider for a light pull, are the hammer and sear, followed by the sear spring (which you already have.) Finally, as RacingManiac pointed out, a good trigger stirrup translates all of this feel directly to your finger tip (along with a metal trigger). A solid trigger stirrup gets rid of the mushiness of the stock one, and also allows you to take up the trigger pre-pull slack, which is where most of a trigger's excess pull length comes from.

Originally Posted by Chairmanlao

Now with the left over money I can go buy a new trigger stir up (damn for no longer having that Illusion huge sale post)

The sales post will be back up soon. I'm just categorizing all of my inventory and creating a permanent database so that this outage won't happen again for such a long time. It will take me a bit longer to get it set up, but will ensure minimized downtime in the future if this happens again. If there's anything specific you need, you have my email.

[SuperHog]

Originally Posted by Chairmanlao

ILLusion, thank you for the input. Its always a pleasure to read your posts.

With that said, since i'm ordering from Evike I might as well just pick this up (?)
http://www.evike.com/product_info.ph...ducts_id=32255

I'm not so worried about the price, as too how it will work..... My budget is about like (up to) 40 bucks. I just want DAT LIGHT TRIGGER PULL.

Now with the left over money I can go buy a new trigger stir up (damn for no longer having that Illusion huge sale post)

From the pics, that trigger and stirrup is very rough and crude looking considering it was CNCed.

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by SuperHog

From the pics, that trigger and stirrup is very rough and crude looking considering it was CNCed.

From my experience with working on them, I think the only "CNC" that was done to them, was to the die-casting mould used to make them.

At most, the triggers may have gone through a secondary milling on the sides to ensure the width does not stray too wide from the casting tolerance.

The light seam across the top and bottom of the trigger is the dead giveaway that they are actually cast.

[SuperHog]

Originally Posted by ILLusion

From my experience with working on them, I think the only "CNC" that was done to them, was to the die-casting mould used to make them.

At most, the triggers may have gone through a secondary milling on the sides to ensure the width does not stray too wide from the casting tolerance.

The light seam across the top and bottom of the trigger is the dead giveaway that they are actually cast.

So the actual material within is pot metal verses a true billet aluminum machined trigger like the more expensive and higher quality ones.

I prefer spending a bit more for better triggers. You see a lot of times where a lower quality product that can be produced at less than 1/5 the cost of the higher quality product and sold a few dollars less the a higher quality product, people will still buy the junk.

[ILLusion]

Originally Posted by SuperHog

So the actual material within is pot metal verses a true billet aluminum machined trigger like the more expensive and higher quality ones.

I prefer spending a bit more for better triggers. You see a lot of times where a lower quality product that can be produced at less than 1/5 the cost of the higher quality product and sold a few dollars less the a higher quality product, people will still buy the junk.

^^ quoted for truth.

[Styrak]

To be fair, that listing on Evike doesn't say it was CNC'd anywhere.

[SuperHog]

Originally Posted by Styrak

To be fair, that listing on Evike doesn't say it was CNC'd anywhere.

You're right, It's pot metal for the trigger with no secondary milling or deburring on the stamped stirrup.