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January 3rd, 2013, 23:16 | #1 |
JG G36C Disassembly not that easy...
Well, after an hour or fiddling with the Airsoft and checking tutorials online, I figured how to remove the Gearbox assembly from the rest.
However, when I tried to remove the Gearbox from the Grip, it looked like this: As you can see, on of the wires is being blocked by the Safety lever... Am I missing something or I need to break the wire in order to get the Gearbox out? Also, while I'm at it, should I split the wires from the Gearbox to the Barrel with any type of connector to allow an easier disassembly next time? The whole wiring looks like a mess from my perspective. Thanks. |
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January 3rd, 2013, 23:34 | #2 |
will always be Mike Litoris in our hearts
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That's very odd. The entire gear box normally just lifts out. Well if fiddling and moving the wire around does not work, you can always try to remove the selector. After you remove it when small parts that control the selector switch on the gearbox should fall our freeing the wire.
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January 3rd, 2013, 23:55 | #3 | |
does it not disconnect where the shrink tubing isn't really shrunk down...?
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January 4th, 2013, 00:04 | #4 |
Just keep pushing and pulling whatever parts you need to get the wire from under the selector... if necessary, push the gearbox back in if you have to.
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"Mah check" Now you know |
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January 4th, 2013, 00:29 | #5 |
When you have the selector in a certain position it shouldn't be an issue and will slide out.
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January 4th, 2013, 01:12 | #6 |
Selector is in semi as stated in numerous websites. It will not lift. The cable is really stuck there. I'll try to remove the whole selector tomorrow, but right now I'll just put the project on hold.
Oh, and my great self cracked the plastic piece that moves when you select the fire mode, so I'll need to order a new one, I have a feeling it will completely break soon. |
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January 4th, 2013, 01:45 | #7 |
Squid Porn Superstar, I love the tentacles!
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This looks very odd to me, I've never seen a G36 wired under the selector before. Maybe you could try removing the wiring latch at the back of the gearbox. It should have a small hook on the other end that you can easily push out. Maybe that will give you the length of free wiring you need to pull the gearbox clear of the selector and wiggle the wiring around it.
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January 4th, 2013, 01:55 | #8 |
I'll take mine apart tomorrow evening and see what the difference is. I've done it lots of times and I can't say I've encountered that problem.
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January 4th, 2013, 15:04 | #9 |
"bb bukakke" KING!
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seems like it might have been a random coincidence that it ended up like that from factory, I've seen 5 or 6 g36s now and none of them were wired like that, and of other owners/techs who have worked on them have not mentioned such an odd occurrence.
unclip the wire retainer at the back of the gearbox there to create some slack in the wire, it's not really secured anywhere else so there should be more slack as the wires start to float around in the lower... should give you enough room to wiggle it out.
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I futz with V2s, V3s and V6s. I could be wrong... but probably, most likely not, as far as I know. Last edited by lurkingknight; January 4th, 2013 at 15:09.. |
January 4th, 2013, 15:16 | #10 |
Unless I'm really doing something wrong, even with the retaining clip removed, it won't come out. I need one or two more centimeters of cable to be able to pass the cable over the selector...
I'm really unlucky I guess. Glad to know I'm not that stupid, and that my case is ...unique. I'm waiting for a soldering iron by mail, and I'll just cut every damn cable in the way, and redo it completely. And yes, I broke the selector plate, need to order a new one from Stealth. Might order some more stuff at the same time. |
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January 4th, 2013, 15:37 | #11 |
Squid Porn Superstar, I love the tentacles!
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What if you tried disconnecting the wiring from the motor?
If you're going to re-do the wiring, be aware that you may have some semi auto problems if you combine the KA trigger assembly with a reinforced tappet plate. The problem I had was the carriage in the trigger assembly wouldn't disengage properly because it was slightly enlarged and the tappet plate was reinforced. The reinforced tappet plate didn't give it enough clearance to disengage properly. I had to sand them both down slightly to make semi auto work. |
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