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October 10th, 2016, 16:10 | #1 |
Lipo inside of keymod...
I wanted to add a keymod on my rifle and wanted to keep it front wired. I've read many conflicting thoughts on keeping a battery constantly plugged in so I decided to do a little modification. I looked around the net and found no info on running a switch to the battery to cut power while leaving the battery connected at all times, but I decided to give it a try. I found it to work great!
I put a small on/off switch on the positive wire between the battery and mosfet. I then mounted the switch on the bottom outside of the keymod for fast switching. Sliding the keymod over the barrel was snug but everything looks great and I can still pull out the the charging cable through any grove on the keymod. I have some rubber rail cover/grips on order which will completely hide the battery and wires. Last edited by Too-many-hobbies; October 10th, 2016 at 16:28.. |
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October 10th, 2016, 17:25 | #2 |
Not Eye Safe, Pretty Boy Maximus on the field take his picture!
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Soooooo why not rear wire it?
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October 10th, 2016, 18:01 | #3 |
Because he wanted to keep it front wired silly.
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October 10th, 2016, 19:08 | #4 |
Playing a long game and having to change batteries will certainly be an interesting experience.
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Guardians of Asgaard - KF43 - VFC KAC SR16 Geissele SBR VFC DD MK18 TM/RWA Agency Arms Cerakoted G17 |
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October 10th, 2016, 19:45 | #5 |
If you're going to be running a big vertical grip anyways, why not get a PTS enhanced polymer foregrip? It's made to fit a stick lipo in it, and you'll always have access to your battery with a hatch on the bottom of it. It's also a really nice foregrip on its own.
Last edited by Rydock; October 10th, 2016 at 19:47.. |
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October 10th, 2016, 20:31 | #6 |
No quick swaps in the field, that's for damn sure.
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October 10th, 2016, 21:57 | #7 | |
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October 11th, 2016, 17:16 | #8 |
Might have to be careful with which battery you choose. I think only a 1000mAh battery would fit the PTS Vertical
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"Know, first, who you are; and then adorn yourself accordingly." |
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October 12th, 2016, 11:19 | #9 |
Traveling Man
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honestly I like this, good mod.
Yes battery life might be an issue, but running a LiPo sure makes this make sense versus the old days of NiCad/MH. I've run full 10 hour game days on a single LiPo in my P90 and put a shit ton of rounds through it and still had power left at the end of the day. Did you happen to take any progress photos as you went? |
October 12th, 2016, 12:48 | #10 |
Not Eye Safe, Pretty Boy Maximus on the field take his picture!
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srsly though, why not just rear wire it?
7.4v 1400mah will fit in that buffer tube, or an 11.1 1200, maybe even 11.1 1400. And you can swap batteries easily. And most importantly, the gun is way easier to take apart if you ever need to fix or upgrade anything. I could understand if you were going to a skeleton stock or something that can't take a battery. The innovation is neat, but ultimately I have to ask; why would someone want to do this when they still have a buffer tube? |
October 12th, 2016, 23:18 | #11 |
Whiny Attention Whore
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CHAZ... I NEED a BATTERY.... And Allen Keys..... And cover.... AND a level to reset my rets.....
REAR WIRE. If its something you cant handly get a local shop or Tech from ASC to do for you.
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B.A. Level 3 Cert. |
October 13th, 2016, 11:18 | #12 | |
Traveling Man
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October 13th, 2016, 15:40 | #13 | |
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I'm running an 11.1 1100mah triple battery with the nanohard MOSFET. This gun is my backyard plinker so I like having the on-demand toggle switch for super fast on/off. I wanted to keep the wiring up front because a) I wasn't sure if I liked the keymod (now love it!) and wanted the option of switching back to the stock hand guard and b) I tried to stuff the battery and MOSFET in the buffer tube but it was realllllll tight and the stock couldn't be adjusted smoothly or to the #1 position. I've opened the gearbox about 25 times in the 9 years i've owned this thing, so the rear-wire option is not an issue if I go that route in the future. |
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