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October 11th, 2016, 13:54 | #1 |
R-Hop Silicone tube?
Any idea where I can find this stuff? http://www.mcmaster.com/#51135K171
I found something similar but its only rated to -5 degrees so i don't know if its suitable for R-hop patches. Thanks, Jordan. |
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October 11th, 2016, 14:07 | #2 |
From the link you posted??????? I mean just a crazy suggestion but, yeah.
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October 11th, 2016, 15:57 | #3 |
Squid Porn Superstar, I love the tentacles!
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You are going to have a very hard time cutting that tubing, I use the soft but it requires very good cutting technique using the correct blades. I would recommend using the regular hardness. Better to have it harder but cut properly than soft and improperly cut, unless you trust your cutting skills.
I also don't see why you would get the imperial stuff when you can get metric 6mm ID 8mm OD. The OD will be 0.4mm small but with no affect on performance as long as the inside is flush. |
October 11th, 2016, 16:40 | #4 |
Ok I was going off of this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gQYiibOFiYs. So I can go off of regular hardness will that have an affect in colder weather ? Also is vinyl tubing a no no?
Last edited by jordan.santos1515; October 11th, 2016 at 17:00.. |
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October 11th, 2016, 17:54 | #5 |
Squid Porn Superstar, I love the tentacles!
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That is an utterly horrible patch cutting method. All you should ever need to cut a patch is a razor blade, 6mm mandrel, and a cutting surface. Shitty imprecise methods like that and those 3D printed cutting "guides" are made by and for people inept in small scale precision work and give half assed patch fitment. They will also only half work for rectangular barrel cuts, and will never work for barrels like PDI.
I tried vinyl once, it worked okay. I ripped it off and put a silicone patch on anyway. |
October 11th, 2016, 18:09 | #6 |
I would highly encourage you to either:
1) Cut 100+ patches and test each iteration; or 2) Get Z to do it, because he's done #1. He knows what he's doing. How do I know? I've seen him cut them first-hand.
__________________
The Steve has spoken. |
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October 11th, 2016, 18:23 | #7 |
"bb bukakke" KING!
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dude fixes high end woodwind instruments, I trust his cutting skills. lol
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I futz with V2s, V3s and V6s. I could be wrong... but probably, most likely not, as far as I know. |
October 11th, 2016, 19:10 | #8 |
Squid Porn Superstar, I love the tentacles!
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I also make oboe reeds. The tips of oboe reeds need to be thinner than 0.05mm, my hair is 0.06mm thick lol. Let me tell you, silicone is much easier to manipulate than the overgrown French swamp grass that reeds are made of.
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October 11th, 2016, 19:14 | #9 |
lol, how much of a difference do you think I would see from my current flat hop to r-hop ?
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October 11th, 2016, 20:30 | #10 |
Not Eye Safe, Pretty Boy Maximus on the field take his picture!
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Like probably none if your flat hop was done properly with the right rubber
You might get better wear resistance though |
October 11th, 2016, 20:57 | #11 |
Gotcha I just did the basic Modify flat hop grey bucking and nub
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October 11th, 2016, 21:14 | #12 |
October 11th, 2016, 21:54 | #13 |
The Modify flat hop is crap.
__________________
The Steve has spoken. |
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October 12th, 2016, 00:15 | #14 |
Squid Porn Superstar, I love the tentacles!
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R Hop is more stable because there is less shift in the hop up material per shot, as it is actually attached to the barrel and not stretched over it. One of the main benefits of R Hop over any other hop up is that it does not shift back and forth along the bore of the barrel the way a standard hop mound would.
Rubber shifting, stretching, and variation aside, the main flaw of a drop in bridge nub or flat nub being used in a non R Hopped setting is that the nub is able to shift back and forth as it is just sitting in a cup and not actually attached to the arm. |
October 12th, 2016, 06:46 | #15 |
Hence why the m nubs stick on or why people make sorbo nubs etc.. I understand. Thanks to everyone on explaining this to me.
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