G&G gc16 Carbine Rear Wiring

[JCue23]

I have a full metal gc16 carbine which is wired to the front handguard, I am switching that out for a floating keymod rail and am going to rewire to the rear. I was wondering if anybody has done this with this gun and is the stock buffer tube/sling mount setup to take the wiring or am I going to have to modify or change the buffer tube and mount to be able to wire to the back?

Thanks

[JCue23]

Ok so I broke everything down seems a weird setup the sling mount can only be taken off by unscrewing the silver buffer tube. The actual buffer tube definitely can't take any wires so I will have to replace that because it would require a ton of modification. I guess I also have to change the sling mount as well to something with a cut out.

The hole in the back of the mechbox seems pretty small for the wires so has anybody done this and did you have to modify the box for the wiring?

http://imgur.com/QXk6IWw

http://imgur.com/GEqwbNM

[dpvu]

It's not impossible and I haven't done it with your particular gun but I have done it with a couple others. Some modifications you may or may not need to make:

-Some front wired guns do not have a notch cut out of the washer that goes inside the buffer tube (that the long screw that holds the buffer tube on and screws into your spring guide goes through) to allow wires to pass through inside the buffer tube
-The stub that the buffer tube attaches to on the body needs to have a flat bottom or a gap (again, for the wires to go between the bottom of the stub and the buffer tube). On some bodies this is round on the bottom and has to be Dremel'ed or filed down.
-The sling mount or washer between the buffer tube and body may need a notch cut out the bottom

I never had issues with the actual mechbox itself, just the rear of the body as described above.

[JCue23]

Originally Posted by dpvu

It's not impossible and I haven't done it with your particular gun but I have done it with a couple others. Some modifications you may or may not need to make:

-Some front wired guns do not have a notch cut out of the washer that goes inside the buffer tube (that the long screw that holds the buffer tube on and screws into your spring guide goes through) to allow wires to pass through inside the buffer tube
-The stub that the buffer tube attaches to on the body needs to have a flat bottom or a gap (again, for the wires to go between the bottom of the stub and the buffer tube). On some bodies this is round on the bottom and has to be Dremel'ed or filed down.
-The sling mount or washer between the buffer tube and body may need a notch cut out the bottom

I never had issues with the actual mechbox itself, just the rear of the body as described above.

Ok great so pretty much all the problems I thought I might run in to! Thank you for the quick reply...

So the stub also needs to be flat? If I replace the buffer tube with a one with a cutout for wires that wouldn't be big enough for the wiring to go through?

[Styrak]

Are you sure what you have is a G&G? Looks more like a VFC. I've never seen that buffer tube setup in a G&G before.

[JCue23]

Originally Posted by Styrak

Are you sure what you have is a G&G? Looks more like a VFC. I've never seen that buffer tube setup in a G&G before.

I wish it was a VFC but alas it is definitely a G&G stamped right on the side

[dpvu]

Originally Posted by JCue23

Ok great so pretty much all the problems I thought I might run in to! Thank you for the quick reply...

So the stub also needs to be flat? If I replace the buffer tube with a one with a cutout for wires that wouldn't be big enough for the wiring to go through?

The bottom needs to be flat or have a channel in it. The picture below is of a Lonex style buffer tube that screws in instead of sliding off but it's the best picture I could find.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/georgensbear/12600025975

Sometimes the buffer tube can have enough clearance being more round but I've had to file down a couple bodies. If you get a specific buffer tube it may have the channel in the tube.

[JCue23]

Originally Posted by dpvu

The bottom needs to be flat or have a channel in it. The picture below is of a Lonex style buffer tube that screws in instead of sliding off but it's the best picture I could find.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/georgensbear/12600025975

Sometimes the buffer tube can have enough clearance being more round but I've had to file down a couple bodies. If you get a specific buffer tube it may have the channel in the tube.

I see what you're saying but the buffer tube doesn't screw in, that stub screws into the body...sorry that's confusing... I think if I file my buffer tube and sling plate I'll be able to feed the wires

[cetane]

If you file a notch in your sling plate and drill a hole in the receiver extension you can pretty easily feed the wiring in. I've got a g&g lower that has the same style of extension, except the extension is only about 3/4" or so long. With yours, it takes up precious buffer tube space for batteries that are buffer tube fit. I can snap pic of mine when I get home tonight if needed.

[JCue23]

Originally Posted by cetane

If you file a notch in your sling plate and drill a hole in the receiver extension you can pretty easily feed the wiring in. I've got a g&g lower that has the same style of extension, except the extension is only about 3/4" or so long. With yours, it takes up precious buffer tube space for batteries that are buffer tube fit. I can snap pic of mine when I get home tonight if needed.

Alright not a bad idea either... would love to see a pic, thanks!

[Darklen]

I've done rear wire conversions for these model types in my shop before and cetane is correct with the necessary mods. Spacer plate has to be notched or replaced with a notched type (sling mount or otherwise) and the tube mount also has to be notched. Shorten it as much as you need but remember you may have to shorten the retaining screw as well or it may be too long to fit in the spring guide properly. You'll also have to notch the screw retaining/tightening plate as it should be a full round type. I usually just cut most of the lower half off while leaving the threaded hole intact. It's all pretty easy if you have a Dremel and metal cutting bits. A vise to hold the parts while notching is highly recommended as well.

[JCue23]

Originally Posted by Darklen

I've done rear wire conversions for these model types in my shop before and cetane is correct with the necessary mods. Spacer plate has to be notched or replaced with a notched type (sling mount or otherwise) and the tube mount also has to be notched. Shorten it as much as you need but remember you may have to shorten the retaining screw as well or it may be too long to fit in the spring guide properly. You'll also have to notch the screw retaining/tightening plate as it should be a full round type. I usually just cut most of the lower half off while leaving the threaded hole intact. It's all pretty easy if you have a Dremel and metal cutting bits. A vise to hold the parts while notching is highly recommended as well.

Alright all sounds good...could I notch the buffer tube itself enough to get the wires in instead of the tube mount or do I have to flatten the tube mount?

and yes the retaining plate inside the buffer tube is the full round type and I already knew I would have to at least make a hole big enough to feed the wires through.

or would this be easier to just buy something like this:
would that just allow me to feed the wires down the channel cut into the buffer tube without having to notch the tube mount?

[Darklen]

That'll work as well but you have all the parts already, they just need some modification. You could check with your local player group and see if someone has some used parts that'll work for you as well.

[JCue23]

Originally Posted by Darklen

That'll work as well but you have all the parts already, they just need some modification. You could check with your local player group and see if someone has some used parts that'll work for you as well.

I know and I'm going back and forth over it because the modifications aren't too hard but I'd be spending money either way and buying a kit is just simple...unfortunately can't find it locally and not paying 100% of the price for shipping

[Darklen]

Check the classifieds. There's several there, at least one (G&P) in Toronto already