AEG stops completely on full auto?

[Dumblins]

Hi everyone,

I did my research on this forum to find a similar thread but I couldn't find anything with the same problem as mine but please refer me to a similar thread if anything...

I went to a game not long ago and my G&G GC16 MPW12 was doing fine for a while and then it stopped. Just completely, no sounds at all, nothing.

The indoor field I was at was not heated and it was a cold day so it was quite cold (around 10-12 degrees celcius). My gun is full metal so no need to say it was frozen cold. When my gun stopped doing anything, I ask questions to nearby players and someone said Mosfets tend to stop working in too cold conditions. So I left my gun in its case and continued playing with what I could get.

It's been two weeks now and it's still giving me problems. I tried it out this morning and I could shoot some BBs on semi-auto but when I went on full auto then it stopped working again. Putting it on semi doesn't work either neither does putting it on safe and back to semi or full auto... My battery is fully charged also.

It most definitely is an electrical issue but I checked the connection on my battery and the tamiya connections look okay.

Does anyone of you have any idea what it might be ? I read it could be the motor wires or the fuze or even the mosfet itself ?

Do I need to rip the gun down in order to check these wires ?

Thanks a lot !

[ThunderCactus]

Originally Posted by Dumblins

I ask questions to nearby players and someone said Mosfets tend to stop working in too cold conditions.

They don't "tend to stop working" they just break. But we're talking like -15 to -30.
If it still shot once or twice afterwards, then most likely one of your motor connectors fell off.

[Dumblins]

Thanks a lot, I'll go check these out.

EDIT : I checked the motor connections and they were well fixed. I disconnected and reconnected them just to make sure they were properly installed. I checked my mostfet connection and fuze and they all seem to be in perfect conditions. I went and try the gun out and it worked correctly. Can't say for how long it will work but at least it seems to do so right now.

[Crowin]

What kind of battery do you have?
My guess you might have a bad Cell, especially if you have a NiMH. Although I have experienced that will a 11.1v Lipo as well.
Try a new battery.

[lurkingknight]

have you tried a different battery?

what mosfet do you have?

[beta678]

Alright, here's a bit of a run down the G&G's with their mosfets and ETU's. Internally the MPW's are exactly the same as the G&G SRS/SRL/SRXL, Predator, etc...

That said, as everyone asked, what kind of battery are you running? They're somewhat designed to run off 11.1 lipo's and honestly will have issues with anything lower voltage wise. I've confirmed this with G&G directly as well.

The cold will not affect those particular mosfets, we've had guys running them through the winter down to -10 at some point and they'll function fine, 10-15C is nothing. Batteries on the other hand are another matter entirely and will be affected by the cold, that's probably what the random guy meant I'd expect.

If you're not running a 11.1 lipo, go borrow a 11.1v lipo from a friend and test it in your MPW that should resolve the issue. That's generally the number one issue guys have with any of the G&G rifles that have their mosfet and etu, they don't like 7.4v lipos, nimh or nicd batteries, I suspect they have a bit of a low voltage cut off of sorts. If that's not the problem, their mosfets will occasionally fry randomly or get damaged if you're not careful with extending the stock. But try the battery first, very worse scenario and if its a mosfet related issue, technically G&G's have 3 months of warranty from purchase date and they're fairly good with customer service.

[Dumblins]

I have a LiPo 11.1v as suggested by the guy at the shop. He told me 7.4v tend to give G&G guns problems so I had to go with an 11.1v. My mosfet is the stock one.

I don't have another battery right now but I was thinking about buying another one anyway (by the way, my battery is a Valken and I think it was Ricochet who once said to stay away from Valken products in general. Should I go with another brand ? Also mine is 1200 mAh but is it worth it to get one with a bigger amount ?).

Could it be the charger as well ? (Also Valken charger). How can I check the mosfet for a proper diagnostic &

Thanks !

[lurkingknight]

borrow one first to try.

Trigger circuit on the mosfets are usually very low amperage and voltage to get to operate the main switch. It shouldn't matter what your output is unless the mosfets g&g used are very poorly specced for the intent they're trying to use them for. AFAIK fets don't care about the main circuit, once the gate circuit connects it just opens up the main switch and whatever power is there will go through with no resistance. It's up to the system draw at that point to pull what it needs. Throwing more volts and amps through it is a bandaid fix. If they hardwired the things to have low voltage cutoffs that would cut off anything lower volts than what would be minimal 3 cell lipo packs, that would be the dumbest thing ever to design, but I wouldn't be surprised if they did the hardware to do it. I'm no EE so that part of it is beyond me. It just seems stupid to design something that blocks out the usage of anything that isn't a 3 cell lipo.

[Crowin]

I run BOL, Intellect and Tenergy batteries in my rigs and haven't really had any issues yet. The More mAh's it has the more shots you will get out of a charge (capacity)
The problem is, what will fit? The more mAh the bigger the battery.
You can test your Battery with a voltage reader; http://www.airsoftparts.ca/store2/in...oducts_id=1677
or just use a multi meter.
If the voltage drop off dramatically and the gun stops functioning you can tell if the battery is no good, once you put it under load. (fire gun)

http://www.airsoftparts.ca/store2/in...oducts_id=2888

https://mach1airsoft.com/product/hig...11-1v-1000mah/

[beta678]

Originally Posted by Dumblins

I have a LiPo 11.1v as suggested by the guy at the shop. He told me 7.4v tend to give G&G guns problems so I had to go with an 11.1v. My mosfet is the stock one.

I don't have another battery right now but I was thinking about buying another one anyway (by the way, my battery is a Valken and I think it was Ricochet who once said to stay away from Valken products in general. Should I go with another brand ? Also mine is 1200 mAh but is it worth it to get one with a bigger amount ?).

Could it be the charger as well ? (Also Valken charger). How can I check the mosfet for a proper diagnostic &

Thanks !

Actually, I know which battery you have. They're honestly fine since they're just rebranded batteries and not something oem'd by valken. Charger on the other hand, I have no idea. Generally is recommended you get a Imax B6 for lipo's as its a one stop shop for basically all airsoft batts.

I'd say get a second batt to test first and if you're having additional problems, I suspect it'll be the mosfet. Unfortunately, with G&G mosfets there's not much you can do if there's anything wrong with it. No troubleshooting codes I know of. You can try programming it for burst and going back to full auto to see if that'll resolve your issue (bit of a stretch). I've seen them fry randomly from time to time, or if they get damaged from accidentally extending the stock, that sorta thing.

But as everyone's said, try borrowing another battery, or bringing it into the shop you got it from for a quick test. Worse case scenario, if you're within your 3 month warranty period, contact G&G. Absolutely worse case scenario, you can buy a replacement mosfet and ETU for ~$50USD and have that installed.

[Dumblins]

I'll check my battery with a multimeter to see if there's anything wrong with it.

If there is, I'll go and buy another battery (a second one is always needed anyway...). If the problem persist, I'll bring it back to the store. If they can't do anything, I'll contact G&G directly.

[Dumblins]

So I checked my battery and here are the results (Valken 11.1v nunchuck 1200mAh) :

- First cell (Black and Red cable) shows ~12.45v
- Second cell (Black and Blue cable close to red cable) shows ~7.5v
- Third cell (Black and Blue cable close to black cable) shows ~4.15v

No drastic drops at all when shooting (we're talking like ~0.2v or so of drop).
Full auto worked for this short test (shot only twice in full auto)

Are these results normal? To me the battery seems to work just fine. I'm really starting to put the blame on the MOSFET...

Also, I noticed a tiny cut on the Black cable's rubber showing off just a tiny bit of the cable underneath. Since my gun is full metal could it have an impact on misleading the current or something?

I'll try and shoot some BBs tomorrow outside to see if the gun stops working again.

[Hectic]

cover the exposed wire with heat shrink or electrical tape. it could be causing a short that could cause a fire, could also cause your issue i would imagine.

Im not an electrical guy so im not sure about your test results.

[Dumblins]

I just tested the gun and, I don't want to call victory yet, but everything seems to be back to normal. I shot over 200 BBs outside (-7 degrees here) semi and full auto and everything went perfectly fine.

Maybe it was the motor connections or maybe it was simply my small cut on the battery connector that caused this I can't tell. At least it seems to work now !

[RainyEyes]

Originally Posted by Dumblins

I just tested the gun and, I don't want to call victory yet, but everything seems to be back to normal. I shot over 200 BBs outside (-7 degrees here) semi and full auto and everything went perfectly fine.

Just wanna say I'm glad you're problem is solved but don't shoot your gun outside if it's below freezing. It makes the gearbox brittle and can break on high fps setup. If you're running above 330 fps I would be cautious