Review Request: G&P AEG

david3558 · February 27th, 2006, 20:42

I would like a review on any G&P Armalite AEG. I would really appreciate it.

Thanks

GMTII · February 27th, 2006, 20:47

1

mcguyver · February 27th, 2006, 21:09

I've worked on lots Of G&P Armalites, but they've all been either the M4A1 or the SPR/A. They are great on the parts and build quality. Nobody does it as well as G&P, except for Systema.

But....

They do have issues of their own. Here are some:

1) Some of the G&P guns in Canada have been upgraded to shoot 450-475 FPS at either the manufacturing or distribution level. This has lead to premature failure on some components like gears and piston/piston head. The piston is a polycarb and that is IMHO one of the weakest parts of a 450 FPS system.

2) Tappet and selector plate failure. This is a problem as G&P uses a clone of a Prometheus hard selector and tappet, which is a poly-amide composite. They are lightweight and strong, but do not allow for any flex. If the tappet flexes, it will break.

3) Nozzle. They use a metal air-seal nozzle with an o-ring inside to give it a very good seal. Keeps air losses from the cylinder system to a minimum. However, this nozzle is too tight for the cylinder head and this has caused many a tappet to fail. Removing the o-ring will solve that potential problem, but at the cost of a flawless air-seal.

4) Motor position. They motor must sit in a very specific position. The wiring must be routed in a precise fashion with bends at exactly the righ spots or the motor will be slightly shifted and bind up. You can not rely on the motor endplate to seat the motor precisely enough. Consequently, a large sudden jarring to the gun can cause the motor to be thrown out of alignment, requiring re-alignment which is not really field-freindly.

Now the good points:

1) 7mm reinforced bearing gear box. Can't go wrong there.

2) Reinforced stanard ratio gears.

3) Beefy metal bearing spring guide.

4) Tapered full capacity cylinder.

5) Steel cylinder head.

6) Low-resistance switch assembly.

7) Metal hop-up chamber.

8) Very good fit and finsh of body components and very solid construction.

Once you get past a few minor issues, they tend to run very well and are very accurate and potentially powerful guns. They only recommendations I have for changes to this gun are:

1) Remove the air-seal o-ring.

2) Replace the tappet with something else, perhaps even a stock Marui.

3) Replace the cylinder head set with a Systema silent head set. If you do this you can keep the o-ring in the nozzle and it is not too tight.

The magic FPS for longevity, range and accuracy seems to be around 390 FPS. Less does not take the gun to it's potential and more just causes stress on some components and may lead to failure.

Eddie · February 27th, 2006, 21:18

I've seen tappet plates break after a few thousand rounds and even less then a thousand. Constiant fire will cause the tappet plate to break. Not good if you have a heavy trigger finger. TM Tappet plates would hold up better. :duke:

david3558 · February 28th, 2006, 01:32

To be honest, even though I am an american, I really like this forum

Thanks guys, any other help you can offer the old-timer? (except no experience with G&P AEGs

)

david3558 · February 28th, 2006, 01:35

Also are those cheap fixes though?

Skruface · February 28th, 2006, 01:54

The tappet plate will run you around $10 US. The cylinder set is around $45. A new spring (to replace the one the gun was shipped with if you have a gun shooting 450 out of the box) will run you another $15.

mcguyver · February 28th, 2006, 01:56

If you can do the work yourself, you'd probably spend less than $30 U.S. if you replaced the piston and tappet. Removing the nozzle o-ring costs nothing. If you have to pay a tech to do it, well, that's up to him!

I think only Peter Kang had them juiced up like that. The ones on WGC seem to all be around 380ish FPS.

david3558 · February 28th, 2006, 02:22

So basically they are worth it...only if i switch those parts correct? Otherwise they are TOP NOTCH guns?

stokes · February 28th, 2006, 02:27

Thats what MC has been pointing out... if you change those parts the gun will work flawlessly. Im thinking of getting a G&P m4a1 RIS myself after I get that damn striker.

david3558 · February 28th, 2006, 02:32

Thanks guys for the help, is there anyway on this forum, to give positive reputation, or "thanks" ?

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February 27th, 2006, 20:42	#1
david3558 Trader rating Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: California	Review Request: G&P AEG I would like a review on any G&P Armalite AEG. I would really appreciate it. Thanks

February 27th, 2006, 20:47	#2
GMTII WW2 Airsofter Trader rating Join Date: Jun 2004	1 __________________ I can't measure my sig so I got this stupid tag line instead. Last edited by GMTII; May 20th, 2012 at 16:36..

February 27th, 2006, 21:09	#3
mcguyver Trader rating Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Northern Alberta	I've worked on lots Of G&P Armalites, but they've all been either the M4A1 or the SPR/A. They are great on the parts and build quality. Nobody does it as well as G&P, except for Systema. But.... They do have issues of their own. Here are some: 1) Some of the G&P guns in Canada have been upgraded to shoot 450-475 FPS at either the manufacturing or distribution level. This has lead to premature failure on some components like gears and piston/piston head. The piston is a polycarb and that is IMHO one of the weakest parts of a 450 FPS system. 2) Tappet and selector plate failure. This is a problem as G&P uses a clone of a Prometheus hard selector and tappet, which is a poly-amide composite. They are lightweight and strong, but do not allow for any flex. If the tappet flexes, it will break. 3) Nozzle. They use a metal air-seal nozzle with an o-ring inside to give it a very good seal. Keeps air losses from the cylinder system to a minimum. However, this nozzle is too tight for the cylinder head and this has caused many a tappet to fail. Removing the o-ring will solve that potential problem, but at the cost of a flawless air-seal. 4) Motor position. They motor must sit in a very specific position. The wiring must be routed in a precise fashion with bends at exactly the righ spots or the motor will be slightly shifted and bind up. You can not rely on the motor endplate to seat the motor precisely enough. Consequently, a large sudden jarring to the gun can cause the motor to be thrown out of alignment, requiring re-alignment which is not really field-freindly. Now the good points: 1) 7mm reinforced bearing gear box. Can't go wrong there. 2) Reinforced stanard ratio gears. 3) Beefy metal bearing spring guide. 4) Tapered full capacity cylinder. 5) Steel cylinder head. 6) Low-resistance switch assembly. 7) Metal hop-up chamber. 8) Very good fit and finsh of body components and very solid construction. Once you get past a few minor issues, they tend to run very well and are very accurate and potentially powerful guns. They only recommendations I have for changes to this gun are: 1) Remove the air-seal o-ring. 2) Replace the tappet with something else, perhaps even a stock Marui. 3) Replace the cylinder head set with a Systema silent head set. If you do this you can keep the o-ring in the nozzle and it is not too tight. The magic FPS for longevity, range and accuracy seems to be around 390 FPS. Less does not take the gun to it's potential and more just causes stress on some components and may lead to failure. __________________ Age verifier Northern Alberta Democracy is two wolves and a sheep discussing what's for dinner. Freedom is the wolves limping away while the sheep reloads. Never confuse freedom with democracy.

February 27th, 2006, 21:18	#4
Eddie Trader rating Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Surrey, BC	I've seen tappet plates break after a few thousand rounds and even less then a thousand. Constiant fire will cause the tappet plate to break. Not good if you have a heavy trigger finger. TM Tappet plates would hold up better. :duke:

February 28th, 2006, 01:32	#5
david3558 Trader rating Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: California	To be honest, even though I am an american, I really like this forum Thanks guys, any other help you can offer the old-timer? (except no experience with G&P AEGs )

February 28th, 2006, 01:35	#6
david3558 Trader rating Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: California	Also are those cheap fixes though?

February 28th, 2006, 01:56	#8
mcguyver Trader rating Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Northern Alberta	If you can do the work yourself, you'd probably spend less than $30 U.S. if you replaced the piston and tappet. Removing the nozzle o-ring costs nothing. If you have to pay a tech to do it, well, that's up to him! I think only Peter Kang had them juiced up like that. The ones on WGC seem to all be around 380ish FPS. __________________ Age verifier Northern Alberta Democracy is two wolves and a sheep discussing what's for dinner. Freedom is the wolves limping away while the sheep reloads. Never confuse freedom with democracy.

February 28th, 2006, 02:22	#9
david3558 Trader rating Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: California	So basically they are worth it...only if i switch those parts correct? Otherwise they are TOP NOTCH guns?

February 28th, 2006, 02:27	#10
stokes Trader rating Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Toronto	Thats what MC has been pointing out... if you change those parts the gun will work flawlessly. Im thinking of getting a G&P m4a1 RIS myself after I get that damn striker.

February 28th, 2006, 02:32	#11
david3558 Trader rating Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: California	Thanks guys for the help, is there anyway on this forum, to give positive reputation, or "thanks" ?

Review Request: G&P AEG

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