Replacing Motor Gear

Hortons Heros · February 12th, 2007, 17:49

http://www.redwolfairsoft.com/redwol...l?prodID=10870
http://www.redwolfairsoft.com/redwol...l?prodID=10873

For those who have experience removing and replacing the motor gear what tools and technique do you use?

mcguyver · February 12th, 2007, 20:07

I bought a gear puller for R/C cars from my local hobby shop. It cost me $15 and I've used it about 10 times now or so.

To re-install the gear, I made a little jig with a pin protruding from it and I rest the motor shaft on it while I tap the gear on with a hammer. That way, you won't break the end bells of the motor as significant force is required to install the new gear.

But I'm all for using the correct tools, but just never got around to ordering them.

Hortons Heros · February 14th, 2007, 00:31

thanks McGuyver, if you are a really big Mcguyver fan
http://www.pistolwimp.com/media/56794/
http://www.pistolwimp.com/media/56793/
http://www.pistolwimp.com/media/56792/

MADDOG · February 14th, 2007, 12:18

ASC Link
http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthr...=pinion+puller

Darklen · February 14th, 2007, 19:53

Those are the tools I use, but I find the setting tool just a bit too short to do long shank motors. You have to use the plates to carefully press manually for a bit to set the gear in place, then thread in the screws, a turn or so on each side, until the gear bottoms out. Like Mac, I haven't got around to getting the porper tools as in longer screws.

brently0725 · March 2nd, 2007, 18:21

I put a vise grip around my old gear and used a small punch to punch out the shaft thru the gear.

To install the new gear all I did was lightly tapped it with a hammer.

For those who might say I was stupid to do this, save your breath because I had no access to a gear puller or a gun doctor at the time.

And it is still running great to this day.

It was on my TM MP5 SD5.

Trader rating · March 2nd, 2007, 18:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by brently0725

I put a vise grip around my old gear and used a small punch to punch out the shaft thru the gear.

To install the new gear all I did was lightly tapped it with a hammer.

For those who might say I was stupid to do this, save your breath because I had no access to a gear puller or a gun doctor at the time.

And it is still running great to this day.

It was on my TM MP5 SD5.

I did the same , only I heated the gear to make it easer. When it came time to put it back togeter I put the motor in the freezer for 30 minutes and heated the gear lightly, press fit! Works for me!

Kos-Mos · March 4th, 2007, 23:05

HAHAHAHHAHA

sorry... just that the "tool" from WGC.....almost 40$ US plus shipping.

Here is the best thing.... cost half the price... works like a charm.

http://www.gwsus.com/english/product/other/gp.htm

You can go to any hobbyshop and ask them for the standard version.

to put it back, the hammer trick is fine. the pinion won't go in wrong anyways. Just make sure you start it straight.... and that the other end of the motor shaft sits on something hard.

Darklen · March 4th, 2007, 23:16

Yeah, one of our local player bought one thinking that. It broke in half without budging the gear. It's no where near strong enough to pull an AEG gear off the shaft.

Kos-Mos · March 5th, 2007, 03:23

ah well...

not tried yet since I have not changed my motor.

I do know that it took out a steel pinion hot press fitted on the shaft when cold. There is a way to use it to prevent damage to the tool.... but still I agree that brass is not the best material to use for that kind of tool.

Gryphon · March 5th, 2007, 10:23

Or you could just go to a superior Classic Army replacement motor where the pinion gear is secured via a set screw.

Seriously, CA motors are in fact better than TM. The TM motors are built to be completely non-user servicable with those tabs bent in to keep the end bell in place. On the CA you can remove it with two screws. The CA motor also has bearings in it - FOUR on the long model - versus none for the TM. It's still not as good as a Systema or other high performance motor, but if you're interested in motor maintenance the CA is an excellent piece of equipment.

I can post some figures if you want about efficiency increases after lathing the commutator and soldering the brush braids.

Hortons Heros · March 5th, 2007, 12:07

they are compatible with TM gears?

Gryphon · March 5th, 2007, 15:58

Fully. Just make sure you get the correct length for your gun and they should be a drop-in replacement.

Trader rating · March 5th, 2007, 23:03

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gryphon

Or you could just go to a superior Classic Army replacement motor where the pinion gear is secured via a set screw.

Seriously, CA motors are in fact better than TM. The TM motors are built to be completely non-user servicable with those tabs bent in to keep the end bell in place. On the CA you can remove it with two screws. The CA motor also has bearings in it - FOUR on the long model - versus none for the TM. It's still not as good as a Systema or other high performance motor, but if you're interested in motor maintenance the CA is an excellent piece of equipment.

I can post some figures if you want about Efficiency increases after lathing the commutator and soldering the brush braids.

Efficiency increases? COOL, can you show us how? Do you have pictures showing how to do it?

Kos-Mos · March 6th, 2007, 03:28

unless you have a high quality com lathe, it is useless for you to know.

A commutator would need to be cut every 2 battery packs to stay efficient, and the brushes changed at the same time.

Then break-in the new brushes....will be good for an other 2 packs.
It is good for R/C cars racing, but for airsoft.....

Only thing is that bearings are always good, so you better go with the CA motor then....wich makes me think about it...

I might end-up having a TM motor to wind....just to make a kick ass powerfull motor.

*edit* soldering the brushes will defenitly help though. I will do it tomorrow while I am building my MOSFET switch bridge.... might get about 5 RPS just with that.

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February 12th, 2007, 17:49	#1
Hortons Heros Trader rating Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Prince George BC	Replacing Motor Gear http://www.redwolfairsoft.com/redwol...l?prodID=10870 http://www.redwolfairsoft.com/redwol...l?prodID=10873 For those who have experience removing and replacing the motor gear what tools and technique do you use? __________________ age verifier for Prince George, Mackenzie, Quesnel, Fort st James and northren BC http://pgairsoft.goodforum.net/index.forum

February 12th, 2007, 20:07	#2
mcguyver Trader rating Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Northern Alberta	I bought a gear puller for R/C cars from my local hobby shop. It cost me $15 and I've used it about 10 times now or so. To re-install the gear, I made a little jig with a pin protruding from it and I rest the motor shaft on it while I tap the gear on with a hammer. That way, you won't break the end bells of the motor as significant force is required to install the new gear. But I'm all for using the correct tools, but just never got around to ordering them. __________________ Age verifier Northern Alberta Democracy is two wolves and a sheep discussing what's for dinner. Freedom is the wolves limping away while the sheep reloads. Never confuse freedom with democracy.

February 14th, 2007, 00:31	#3
Hortons Heros Trader rating Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Prince George BC	thanks McGuyver, if you are a really big Mcguyver fan http://www.pistolwimp.com/media/56794/ http://www.pistolwimp.com/media/56793/ http://www.pistolwimp.com/media/56792/ __________________ age verifier for Prince George, Mackenzie, Quesnel, Fort st James and northren BC http://pgairsoft.goodforum.net/index.forum

February 14th, 2007, 12:18	#4
MADDOG Trader rating Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Aurora/Ontario	Here is what I did ASC Link http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthr...=pinion+puller __________________ WOLFPACK U-96 Cry Havoc, Let slip the Dogs of War! "Opportunities multiply as they are seized." - Sun Tzu, The Art of War

February 14th, 2007, 19:53	#5
Darklen Administrator Trader rating Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Red Deer, AB	Those are the tools I use, but I find the setting tool just a bit too short to do long shank motors. You have to use the plates to carefully press manually for a bit to set the gear in place, then thread in the screws, a turn or so on each side, until the gear bottoms out. Like Mac, I haven't got around to getting the porper tools as in longer screws. __________________ *ASC Age Verifier for Red Deer & Area Alberta*

March 2nd, 2007, 18:21	#6
brently0725 Trader rating Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Mission, BC	I put a vise grip around my old gear and used a small punch to punch out the shaft thru the gear. To install the new gear all I did was lightly tapped it with a hammer. For those who might say I was stupid to do this, save your breath because I had no access to a gear puller or a gun doctor at the time. And it is still running great to this day. It was on my TM MP5 SD5. __________________ -TM AK Beta Spetz -TM MP5 SD5 -TSD VSR10 -Ares G39C -A&K Tan Magpul Masad -We Tech M9 Tac Masterling -1Tornado Impacts V2/3 Gun Doc and BA experience

March 4th, 2007, 23:05	#8
Kos-Mos Trader rating Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Lévis (QC)	HAHAHAHHAHA sorry... just that the "tool" from WGC.....almost 40$ US plus shipping. Here is the best thing.... cost half the price... works like a charm. http://www.gwsus.com/english/product/other/gp.htm You can go to any hobbyshop and ask them for the standard version. to put it back, the hammer trick is fine. the pinion won't go in wrong anyways. Just make sure you start it straight.... and that the other end of the motor shaft sits on something hard.

March 4th, 2007, 23:16	#9
Darklen Administrator Trader rating Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Red Deer, AB	Yeah, one of our local player bought one thinking that. It broke in half without budging the gear. It's no where near strong enough to pull an AEG gear off the shaft. __________________ *ASC Age Verifier for Red Deer & Area Alberta*

March 5th, 2007, 03:23	#10
Kos-Mos Trader rating Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Lévis (QC)	ah well... not tried yet since I have not changed my motor. I do know that it took out a steel pinion hot press fitted on the shaft when cold. There is a way to use it to prevent damage to the tool.... but still I agree that brass is not the best material to use for that kind of tool.

March 5th, 2007, 10:23	#11
Gryphon Trader rating Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: MB	Or you could just go to a superior Classic Army replacement motor where the pinion gear is secured via a set screw. Seriously, CA motors are in fact better than TM. The TM motors are built to be completely non-user servicable with those tabs bent in to keep the end bell in place. On the CA you can remove it with two screws. The CA motor also has bearings in it - FOUR on the long model - versus none for the TM. It's still not as good as a Systema or other high performance motor, but if you're interested in motor maintenance the CA is an excellent piece of equipment. I can post some figures if you want about efficiency increases after lathing the commutator and soldering the brush braids.

March 5th, 2007, 12:07	#12
Hortons Heros Trader rating Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Prince George BC	they are compatible with TM gears? __________________ age verifier for Prince George, Mackenzie, Quesnel, Fort st James and northren BC http://pgairsoft.goodforum.net/index.forum

March 5th, 2007, 15:58	#13
Gryphon Trader rating Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: MB	Fully. Just make sure you get the correct length for your gun and they should be a drop-in replacement.

March 6th, 2007, 03:28	#15
Kos-Mos Trader rating Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Lévis (QC)	unless you have a high quality com lathe, it is useless for you to know. A commutator would need to be cut every 2 battery packs to stay efficient, and the brushes changed at the same time. Then break-in the new brushes....will be good for an other 2 packs. It is good for R/C cars racing, but for airsoft..... Only thing is that bearings are always good, so you better go with the CA motor then....wich makes me think about it... I might end-up having a TM motor to wind....just to make a kick ass powerfull motor. edit soldering the brushes will defenitly help though. I will do it tomorrow while I am building my MOSFET switch bridge.... might get about 5 RPS just with that.

Replacing Motor Gear

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