Marui 1911 Upgrades

[HelloKitty]

I have a Marui 1911 that worked perfectly fine.

After the following upgrades,

Guarder full metal body kit
Guarder recoil spring guide
Guarder steel barrel bushing
Nine Ball outer barrel + chamber
Shooter’s Design Recoil Spring
PDI 6.01mm tightbore barrel
PDI piston head
Guarder nozzle
Firefly super soft bucking
KM RH45 bucking

none of the shots would hopup even if I had the dial anywhere between no hop and full hop and made sure there was not any excess lube.

The hopup nub looks fine, as it does protrude into the barrel and the dial is not backing away from the setting so I'm not sure why it's not getting any hopup.

Could it be the Guarder nozzle causing issues?

[The Saint]

Are you using the Firefly bucking or the KM bucking?

[Colin_S]

I noticed the same thing with my TM 1911 and after half a year's worth of use the range was really poor even though velocity was still relatively high (320fps and range was like 30'. )

My issue turned out to be the arm that pushes the hopup rubber. The arm is suppose to be at a right angle but I noticed that after a bit of use it was bent upwards and the angle was closer to 110 degrees. After bending back, my gun regained its ability to give the BB hop.

Setup wise, my gun is very similar to yours so perhaps that's the problem you're experiencing.

[Scooby Steve]

Originally Posted by Colin_S

My issue turned out to be the arm that pushes the hopup rubber.

There are 2 slots on the back of the hop-up wheel of my TM G17. Which slot does that arm fit into?

[Colin_S]

Originally Posted by Scooby Steve

There are 2 slots on the back of the hop-up wheel of my TM G17. Which slot does that arm fit into?

Sorry dude I have not worked on a TM Glock 17 yet so I can't tell you if the hopup mech is the same as the Hi Capa 4.3/5.1 or 1911 series. Can you take a pic of your hopup?

[The Saint]

Whichever slot that has one end that's narrower than the other, so depending which way you turn the dial, the hopup arm is dragged closer to the center of the dial and depresses the bucking. If both slots are identical, then it doesn't matter which slot you use.

[HelloKitty]

How do I take apart the hopup? Right now the inner barrel and hopup unit are stuck inside the outer barrel.

Are there any guides or pics that I can see as a reference?

I also loc tited the outer barrel.

Thanks

[HelloKitty]

I tried both hopup buckings and they exhibit the same no hopup effect because something's not right, I'm going to try to open the hopup unit.

[Scooby Steve]

Originally Posted by HelloKitty

I tried both hopup buckings and they exhibit the same no hopup effect because something's not right, I'm going to try to open the hopup unit.

I've not seen the internals of a TM 1911 but wouldn't you have had to open the hop-up unit to install the bucking and inner barrel? I put a 6.01 in my Glock and the bucking (rubber sleeve) goes on the end of the inner barrel and then the hop-up unit is reassembled and that goes into the outer barrel. Did you put the bucking on the end of the nozzle? What do you mean when you say you loc-tited the outer barrel?

[HelloKitty]

The outer barrel is actually two piece, so I loctited it to make it a solid one piece.

I had a tech install the parts so I'm not sure how to take it apart =(

[Scooby Steve]

Remove the inner barrel and attached hop-up unit and lay it on it's side so that the hop-up wheel is facing up. Remove the screws and put them where they can't roll away on you. Gently pry the unit apart and note the positioning of the metal arm. Remove the wheel and turn it over and see if the slot is on the top. The little bent part should go into the slot so that when you move the wheel it raises or lowers the flat, metal part on top of the rubber sleeve. That's how it is on my TM 5.1.

[HelloKitty]

Okay, I confirmed that the arm is in fact moving as the dial is moving. But for some reason it still doesn't give enough hop, it still drops off after 40-50ft as if there is no hopup at all.

Is there a way to put something in between there to make it push the rubber down harder?

I noticed that after I removed the pieces and rinsed them off under water, the dial is now very easy to move, it just has almost no resistance anymore and can't keep the hopup setting in place. What should I do?

[Scooby Steve]

That's the same setup as my Hi-Capa. My guess would be that the lack of hop-up is because of that super-soft bucking, if that's the one we're looking at. I'm using a Nine Ball bucking I got from ILLusion. Try reinstalling the stock sleeve and see if that makes a difference.

Edit: I just checked mine again. There's a cutaway on the inner barrel. That should be facing up. Inside the bucking is a little dimple that should be up against the cutaway part.

[HelloKitty]

I have the nineball one too, and I hated the way it hopped, it felt too stiff. The KM rh45 is the one pictured there.

Hmmm yea I made sure the dimple bump is inside the cutout and it is protruding downwards, I just wonder why it's not giving good hop.

Could the guarder nozzle be pushing the bb too far in or not far in enough?

Everything in the hopup department seems fine, this is puzzling.

[Scooby Steve]

Had to go get groceries.

Originally Posted by HelloKitty

Everything in the hopup department seems fine, this is puzzling.

So it would seem. All the TM's I've owned have been quite accurate out of the box and I only got the Nine Ball for the better air seal so...what are your groupings like? Does the BB drop or go up? The problem could be in the nozzle. Is it the enhanced one? Maybe a different rocket valve is the way to go.