Reliable G36c with systema turbo motor?

[StillAlive]

Hi all,

I'm upgrading my TMG36c into a squad gun and occasionally a light support smg.

My purpose is almost the same as one in a thread i've found on this forum http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthr...ht=turbo+motor

I want to have a bit more power for range + have a decent rate of fire + use it (occasionally) with a drum mag + have a reliable gun that i wont be needing to repair often.

What have i done so far:
1. Redwolfairsoft level 2 upgrade (370fps with pdi spring) => not working well, will check it upon opening the gearbox;
2. Systema BS Precision Barrel -> working just fine;
3. Systema short turbo motor -> just installed, have LOTS of misfeeds;
4. G&P 9.6 3300mah battery -> perfect ;
5. A new fuse, the original one was removed :banghead: by redwolf -> installed 20a one, gone after one game, will be replaced with the systema recommended 30a one.

What i'm planning to do:
1. Install Prometheus M130 spring (my friend has one spare) in order to slow the ROF a bit and get some more power and range.
2. Install a sector clip to control these crazy misfeeds.

Basically thats it.

What do you think? I've read about people making various piston mods etc, would i need one?

Thanks very much for your help!

[Skruface]

The Turbo motors are meant to be used with an M135 spring or less, so you should be OK. As far as misfeeds, whay kind of mags are you using? Guns with such a high ROF tend not to like anything but locaps and auto-winding drum mags....

Piston mod is not needed unless you are going for crazy high ROF. If that's what you want, I'd go with an Angel Choppaya piston, and then mod your gears. You'll lose 25% velocity but gain about 15% ROF.

[StillAlive]

Skruface, thank you for your quick reply. I'm using Hero Arms Auto-Winding MAG for G36 Series and planing to use TM hicaps (not tested yet).

I'm not going for these crazy ROF, just want to make it high enough to make other players hide

Basically i went for the turbo motor because it is able (at least theoretically) to move M130 spring while maintaining a decent ROF.

Almost forgot, I'm thinking of replacing my stock spring guide with a metal one (for durability).

[ThunderCactus]

its a G36c, it's specifically designed to use a mini battery. get systema gears, piston, and a silent cylinder set, and use a 9.6v large battery. You get a ridiculous rate of fire.
http://www.wgcshop.com/pcart/shopper...528_cat_Stocks

[StillAlive]

Originally Posted by ThunderCactus

its a G36c, it's specifically designed to use a mini battery. get systema gears, piston, and a silent cylinder set, and use a 9.6v large battery. You get a ridiculous rate of fire.
http://www.wgcshop.com/pcart/shopper...528_cat_Stocks

G&P stock with 9.6v 3300mah battery already installed. i have systema gears, decided (for now) wait for the stock ones to wear off and replace then. im trying to keep as much stock parts as possible for as long as i can before replacing (performance articles not included of course)). I understand why piston, but a silent cylinder set? I thought of piston head (already have a systema polycarbonate with bearing), metal spring guide and may be a metal hopup chamber for better seal... and wait for the stock piston to die and then replace )

[ThunderCactus]

Silent head set reduces the pressure on your cylinder head and gearbox shell.
I know a guy who made an MG36, systema gears, piston, cylinder set, 350fps spring, and a spring guide. Went through more than 60,000 rounds before he sold it, never had any problems. When he first hooked up the 9.6 large and tried it out with stock internals, it took 6 seconds for the piston to strip completely lol

[StillAlive]

6 seconds... wow, its a record ))) thanks for the info. silent head set for impact reduction, interesting... is it really that much better protection than systema polycarbonate piston head? (which i already have))

[Darklen]

I've got my TMG36c converted to an MG36V. Internally the only stock parts left are the gearbox shell and the trigger switch assembly (less wiring).

My mods include:

- Systema Bore up kit with silent piston and cylinder head assembly
- Systema V3 spring guide
- Systema G36 nozzle
- Systema torque up helical gears
- Systema oiless bushings
- Systema antireversal latch
- Systema Magnum motor
- Deep Fire titanium piston
- Guarder SP110 spring
- Mosfet trigger switch wiring
- Systema 6.04mm tightbore, M16 length
- Guarder clear hopup sleeve & bucking
- CA hopup chamber (original TM one broke)
- G&P Full size G36 forend conversion
- G&P "V" full stock with 9.6v battery

After a season and a half and 50,000 rounds, I tore it apart to assess the damage and found there was almost zero wear on anything. The part with the most wear was the gearbox shell itself, along the piston guide tracks and they were just polished smooth, not really worn to the point where I could say they had wear on them. The Guarder spring shot pretty hot at first, about 390fps with .25g bb's, but settled down fast and shoots a stable 360fps with 0.25's. It shoots pretty fast (rof) with the 9.6v, but the torque up gear tamed it down a bit.

I think the spring you're thinking of will be awfully hot and the turbo motor won't handle it. The turbo is more for high rof guns, the magnum is for high torque guns. I've never had any misfires with my set up. The only real issue I've had is the handgrip getting hot from sustained fire. Kind of a pain to have to cease fire for 5 minutes or so just to let the motor cool off.

[mateba]

You might be able to improve your feeding with a sector cam lobe or sector chip. It increases the amount of time the air nozzle stays rearward to increase time for a BB to load. If you haven't got a MOSFET yet should get get soon. It'll tame some of the turbo motor's hunger, improve your ROF and save your trigger contacts. If you short stroke your piston and sector gear you will increase your ROF but lose 10FPS per tooth but I'm not sure it would be the best way to improve feeding. You might want to remove the second to last tooth to improve piston catch though. It would make sure that you sector gear is grabbing your piston at the same place and extend your piston's life in a high ROF setup. If you swiss cheese your piston you gain a little ROF, not much, and decrease the weight/momentum hitting your cylinder head/MB. If you decide to swiss cheese your piston get a bearing spring guide and don't use a bearing piston to reduce more weight, beside two bearings is redundant.

mateba

[StillAlive]

Originally Posted by Darklen

I've got my TMG36c converted to an MG36V. Internally the only stock parts left are the gearbox shell and the trigger switch assembly (less wiring).

My mods include:

- Systema Bore up kit with silent piston and cylinder head assembly
- Systema V3 spring guide
- Systema G36 nozzle
- Systema torque up helical gears
- Systema oiless bushings
- Systema antireversal latch
- Systema Magnum motor
- Deep Fire titanium piston
- Guarder SP110 spring
- Mosfet trigger switch wiring
- Systema 6.04mm tightbore, M16 length
- Guarder clear hopup sleeve & bucking
- CA hopup chamber (original TM one broke)
- G&P Full size G36 forend conversion
- G&P "V" full stock with 9.6v battery

After a season and a half and 50,000 rounds, I tore it apart to assess the damage and found there was almost zero wear on anything. The part with the most wear was the gearbox shell itself, along the piston guide tracks and they were just polished smooth, not really worn to the point where I could say they had wear on them. The Guarder spring shot pretty hot at first, about 390fps with .25g bb's, but settled down fast and shoots a stable 360fps with 0.25's. It shoots pretty fast (rof) with the 9.6v, but the torque up gear tamed it down a bit.

I think the spring you're thinking of will be awfully hot and the turbo motor won't handle it. The turbo is more for high rof guns, the magnum is for high torque guns. I've never had any misfires with my set up. The only real issue I've had is the handgrip getting hot from sustained fire. Kind of a pain to have to cease fire for 5 minutes or so just to let the motor cool off.

wow, what an impressive set, a long way down the road for me

hmm, haven't thought about the heat issue, although im not planning to make mg36, most of the time i use semi, so it won't happen often. so the only question whether the turbo motor will be able to move m130 spring without destroying the internals / burning itself (both in semi and auto). it should be ok (at least on paper).
btw, thanks to ALL for the silent piston tip - will order asap

[StillAlive]

Originally Posted by mateba

You might be able to improve your feeding with a sector cam lobe or sector chip. It increases the amount of time the air nozzle stays rearward to increase time for a BB to load. If you haven't got a MOSFET yet should get get soon. It'll tame some of the turbo motor's hunger, improve your ROF and save your trigger contacts. If you short stroke your piston and sector gear you will increase your ROF but lose 10FPS per tooth but I'm not sure it would be the best way to improve feeding. You might want to remove the second to last tooth to improve piston catch though. It would make sure that you sector gear is grabbing your piston at the same place and extend your piston's life in a high ROF setup. If you swiss cheese your piston you gain a little ROF, not much, and decrease the weight/momentum hitting your cylinder head/MB. If you decide to swiss cheese your piston get a bearing spring guide and don't use a bearing piston to reduce more weight, beside two bearings is redundant.

mateba

mateba, thanks very much, very useful info. ill try a sector clip first to improve feeding. Thought about MOSFET, will order and install. Im not planning to increase my ROF, it is high enough as is. My priorities now (with the current set) are feeding, durability and power.

[mateba]

the turbo will turn the 130 but its meant for less powered springs. What kind of gears are you using? Stock with a m130? please, no? What FPS do you want 440FPS?

If you get your mosfet it should be easy for you to get a low resistance resettable fuse and active braking. Active braking stops your gears from moving when they shouldn't which in your case I believe you could use but in most cases its still nice to have. You have a hell'ova motor which should throw around some extra momentum. But to keep it short it will cause your gears and piston to last longer. check out airsoft mechanics for mosfet sales and questions, they should be able to answer any question. Although some of the guys here know their mosfets too.

mateba

[StillAlive]

Prometheus M135 spring from our experience is actually 120 so i believe it will be OK. I'm aiming for 440-440FPS range. I have systema metal gear set, will be installing it later this week.

I'm thinking about getting PsyphyerVII's MOSFET switch unit, Active braking unit, Resettable fuse http://forums.airsoftmechanics.com/i...hp?topic=439.0
What do you think?

[Syn]

Originally Posted by StillAlive

Prometheus M135 spring from our experience is actually 120 so i believe it will be OK. I'm aiming for 440-440FPS range. I have systema metal gear set, will be installing it later this week.

I'm thinking about getting PsyphyerVII's MOSFET switch unit, Active braking unit, Resettable fuse http://forums.airsoftmechanics.com/i...hp?topic=439.0
What do you think?

Hi PsyphyerVII,


I am interested in buying an anti-dryfire unit w/ "intelligent" hopup chamber unit for an Echo1 G36c from this thread:
http://forums.airsoftmechanics.com/index.php?topic=654.0

The feature I am most interested in is the Burst fire mode, so if the anti-dryfire part of the unit is not finished for the G36c and has nothing to do with the burst fire operation I would still be interested in a purchase.

The other features I would still would like in the unit are:

• MOSFET relay switch
• Active braking
• Burst fire mode (can turn on/off)
• Low voltage cutoff

thanks for your time,
Stephen

RESPONSE from Frank


Hi Stephen,

Sorry for the delay, been busy preparing to release my upcoming AEG hi-realism circuit.
Unfortunately, the G36 series has been confirmed to be NOT COMPATIBLE with the hi-realism unit (it's no longer just an anti-dryfire unit)
Compatibility confirmed for only the AK, AR, and FAMAS series so far.
Although I haven't updated that thread regarding the anti-dryfire for awhile now, there has been major developments on the hi-realism unit.
It now includes:

MOSFET relay
Active braking
Burst fire toggle
Handle cocking toggle
Anti-dryfire
Full cycle completion
Low voltage cutoff
Resettable Fuse
Price: $120

So if you happen to have an AR, just install this mod and you'll have an AEG even more advanced than the $1500 Systema PTW

Regards,
Frank

[StillAlive]

2Syn, OK so our g36s are not compatible with the hi-realism unit still, MOSFET switch unit, Active braking unit and Resettable fuse should work... am i right?