|
|||||||||
|
Home | Forums | Register | Gallery | FAQ | Calendar |
Retailers | Community | News/Info | International Retailers | IRC | Today's Posts |
|
Thread Tools |
November 27th, 2007, 17:48 | #1 |
Diemaco C8 URX - Picture Heavy
After a couple of months and maybe a day's worth total of labor, what started as an attempt to build a concept Diemaco C8 has finally become reality. I originally based it upon an article by a member of the CF, an article that addressed what were some of the “shortcomings” of the C7/C8 series, as seen by this service member. From that, it became a pet project of mine, an experiment to answer questions that I couldn’t find here, on Arnie’s, or on the web in general. There were several leaps of faith taken, some minor, some a bit more expensive, but in the end, I think what I’ve built was well worth it. No modifications were needed at all, thankfully, and I hope what I have done proves to be a good reference and maybe an inspiration to others.
Parts Used and Prices- Base Gun: Tokyo Marui M4A1 ($235US*) Metal Body: Guarder New Generation C8 Body Kit ($150US*) Front End Conversion Kit: G&P SR-25 URX ($200US*) Inner barrel: Systema 363mm Tight Bore ($20US*) Magazines: MAG H&K M4 Medium Caps ($34.00US*) Sight: King Arms Aimpoint ($35.00US*) Light Assembly: Vltor G2 bracket and Surefire G2 (*60.00) Vertical Grip: (Came with URX) Planned Parts to be used- Iron Sights: King Arms Troy Iron Sights ($55.00*) Stock: G&P/Magpul CTR or M93b ($91.00) Pistol Grip: Magpul MIAD ($23.00*) QD Sling Mounts: King Arms (~$50.00US*) *Shipping not included Potential Pitfalls Encountered / Lessons Learned- 1. The C8 Body didn’t want to play nicely with the TM gearbox, but with the help of two jeweler’s screwdrivers, I managed to spring the upper receiver outwards enough to clear the tappet plate and a bushing on the opposite side. There weren’t any other issues as the upper and lower receivers mated together nearly perfectly. You will need most of the small metal bits from the M4A1 for the C8 MBK, such as the selector, both body pins, and the flora pin. 2. The front body pin is loose, but a bit of e-tape fixes that for games. 3. The M4A1’s buffer tube is 1.14” in diameter, which is the same as the Mil buffer tube. Civilian tubes are 1.17” in diameter. The buffer tube cap is slanted as the stock is the LE style, but the buffer tube has 6 positions equally spaced, in the Mil style. I intend to replace the LE stock with either a CTR or M93b. 4. The gas tube doesn’t line up with the pre-drilled hole, which the URX interferes with. I chose not to install this item as it’s not a big deal to me and the gas block will not hold the front sight. Pictures: Left Side of the C8: Right Side of the C8: Left Side of the Receiver: Right Side of the URX: Close-up of Left Side with Trademarks: If anybody has any suggestion or questions, I'll do my best to entertain them. Cheers, Vic. |
|
November 27th, 2007, 18:04 | #2 |
Looks great man, good job! I like that front end
|
|
November 27th, 2007, 18:36 | #3 |
Are you referring to KevinB's paper on the C7/8?
|
|
November 27th, 2007, 19:09 | #4 |
That would be the one. It proved to be a valuable outline to address some of the concerns I had. I just need a 16" barrel, and am debating whether or not to get the KA one.
Link below: http://nightoperations.com/C-7_A2.htm |
|
November 27th, 2007, 22:30 | #5 |
kos
|
Off-topic question..
Does anyone know if G&P URX rail kits fit on PTWs? |
|
Bookmarks |
|
|