JG based JP rifle

[diamond_SEA]

Ive been seeing a few of these around, and im thinking of building my own. but im curious as to what is the best base to start with.

So far its M4A1 vs HK 416. the 416 has the advantage of already being rear-wired to take a large battery, but i prefer the look of the classic m4.

What is everyone else using? Or is it difficult to rear wire the m4?

[m102404]

Don't use the 416...the body won't line up properly, it's "taller" than a regular flat top M4. The result is a little funky...but it definitely does not line up flat on the top rails.

I've built 2 so far (12" and 7") and have rear-wired them both.

If you can solder a wire, rear wiring the actual mechbox switch assembly is very straight forward (there's only two wires to solder). The trickey-ist part might be routing the wires properly to the stock/battery. It may or may not (usually does) require permanent modification to the stock tube stub, if you want to run the wires down the stock pipe (like a crane, 416, mod stock, etc...). If you've got terminals and some shrink wrap it's not the hardest thing to do, but take your time.

A JP kit will definitely not hold a battery, so battery box (which looks really bad on a JP) or rear wiring are your options. (Jugglez put a CO2 mechbox in his so he didn't have to mess with wiring)

Hope that helps.

[Shooting Chef]

Hey TY, I found it hard to wire it to the rear. The space btw the mechbox and the lower receiver was tight. I ended up having to make a groove in the lower receiver for the wires to sit in and passed the wire thru the stock tube. Like m102404 says...take your time wiring it...a tight area can cause chaffing and a short will qickly follow.

[m102404]

Phil,

Yeah, I found the same as well. I had to swap out the 16AWG wire that I originally used for different wire with thinner shielding. One of mine is running a deep-fire mosfet so there are 2 strands of 16AWG and one strand of 24AWG wire coming out the back. That's tight! My first attempt had the sheilding of one wire split.

I found that if you're wire casing is not too thick, you can get away with it. I use some heat shrink tubing, that will just barely fit over the 2 or 3 wires to give it a bit of protection. The shrink wrap will hold the wires flat an in position while you button everything up. Obviously sanding off any burrs for the cutting goes a long way. A burr in the stock pipe stub got one of my other wires on a previous build.

Personally I go for broke and cut out as much material as I need to, to get a Deans connector through the back of the lower receiver. Everything's covered up by the receiver plate and sling adapter plate, and I can still yank the whole mechbox without cutting the terminals off my wires. I haven't found that it compromises the strength of a metal body...don't think that I'd do it to a plastic body (i.e. I'd try to remove as little material as possible and take the hit of cutting the terminals off of the wire leads if I need to swap mechboxes).

You know I'm kind of pissed that our rifles look so much alike, right? So pissed that I had to buy a new front end for my other JP rifle... Just kidding, I was going to buy a new front end away.