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February 2nd, 2008, 00:56 | #1 |
metal body problem.
Okay soo tryin to install a G&P zombie killer metal body...all goes smooth (almost) until i try to put the front end onto the upper... its too tight and only threads like once. I tried my RAS and another front end RIS adaptor and no luck =\ ...actually the RAS seemed to go a lil further. Is the threading too thick and just needs to be run in/sanded down?
Ideas??? |
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February 2nd, 2008, 00:58 | #2 |
Red Wine & Adderall
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I believe there is a tool that is used to shave down threads, Unfortunetly I do not know what it is called.
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"Its only a little bit on fire" |
February 2nd, 2008, 01:00 | #3 |
Some RAS are made with metric threads (for what guns exactly I can only recall as old Classic Army and ICS), while G&P, Systema and most others use an Imperial thread. In the past, I've used a metric thread file to re-work the threads enough to use those RAS with a gun that has Imperial threads. FWIW, real guns use an Imperial thread, and obviously real RAS will use Imperial threads also.
The thread pitch on the metric threads is 1.50mm/thread, so if you get a thread file at pretty much any place that sells tools, you'll be fine with that and about an hour of filing.
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Age verifier Northern Alberta Democracy is two wolves and a sheep discussing what's for dinner. Freedom is the wolves limping away while the sheep reloads. Never confuse freedom with democracy. |
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February 2nd, 2008, 01:20 | #4 |
Thanks for the help
the thing is...my RAS + front end piece fit fine on my Spec Forces G&P body. Thats what doesnt make sense |
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February 2nd, 2008, 01:23 | #5 |
The finish on the body is done after it's machined, so it could well be that there's too much gunk in the threads. A thread file will also take care of that, just make sure to use an Imperial where warranted and a metric where warranted. If you can borrow a thread guage from someone, you'll know what the RAS is and the gun, and then know how to proceed.
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Age verifier Northern Alberta Democracy is two wolves and a sheep discussing what's for dinner. Freedom is the wolves limping away while the sheep reloads. Never confuse freedom with democracy. |
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February 2nd, 2008, 01:41 | #6 |
aitey thank you very much! super helpful
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February 2nd, 2008, 10:06 | #7 |
Tys
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Madbull makes a thread cutter/toucher-upper (thread chaser), ask Jugglez.
On the last build with tight threads, I used an extra delta ring and just kept carefully working it on and off, and on further...until the "good" one would fit. Got to be careful of messing up the threads though. I think it basically ended up scraping out paint/finish crap out of the threads. Providing that it's not some freak body with a different threading pattern... |
February 2nd, 2008, 10:40 | #8 |
E-01
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The G&P bodies are really tight when new. Unless you're trying to use a real steal -threaded front end (or barrel nut/delta ring), don't use Madbull thread cutter on it.
Most likely it's just really snug; I've encountered this as well with two different G&P bodies. Find someone with an armorer's wrench and use that to tighten the barrel nut. With the wrench it should be relatively effortless to screw on; if you have to force it, then stop cuz something's up.
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May 4th, 2009, 03:22 | #9 |
My 2 cents worth: Mcguyver is right about the thread file...
I have a G&P M4 metal body and had bought a no-name RIS floating hand guard from a friend... the threads on the floating barrel's nut wouldnt match the body exactly, getting stuck a mm in... so I bought a tap and die set, measured the original Delta ring's threads and then did the same with the floating barrel nut. They both fit a metric 1.5....?? So I figured the no-name was just low quality and so started running a 1.5 tap into the threads on the floating barrel nut. After some effort (about an hour and a bit) it worked no problem! So there ya go. ; ) |
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May 4th, 2009, 13:21 | #10 |
Good on you for wanting to help but...this thread has been idle for a year and a half...necro post.
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May 4th, 2009, 17:21 | #11 |
yeah yeah...Im aware ; P
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