problem with V2 ???!!!

[majordoom]

Hi,

recently, someone told me what the V2 need a lot of ''entretien'' sorry for the french word but i don't know the english word. it's... work, you have to put silicon, oil, etc... but, with the V3 it's different.You can fire with it directly when you receive it and do not need work to the gearbox.. i saw the Dboy M4 sir S-system and, it's a V2 so, it necesserly need ''work'' but, the V3 are perfect and they never need work to them. is that real or not ???

[LUTNIT]

ver. 2 and ver.3 are the same for the amount of work (maintenance) they required. The thing with ver.2 is the design is flawed and when upgraded they are known to crack. These cracks can do anything from just cause an air leak to needing the mechbox shell to be replaced before you can use the gun again.

[majordoom]

that man told me what he need to, every 2000bb's, put silicone, ''recaliber'' gears, etc... so, V2 and V3 are same ??? no one need more maintenance than the other one ?

[ThunderCactus]

Both use some of the same parts, only real difference is in the shell itself. V3 is just less prone to breaking. That's not to say V2 won't last you a while either. But every mechbox should be regreased, shimmed and inspected before use in any gun, not just V2.

[CDN_Stalker]

Originally Posted by majordoom

that man told me what he need to, every 2000bb's, put silicone, ''recaliber'' gears, etc... so, V2 and V3 are same ??? no one need more maintenance than the other one ?

Should pick your "source" up, carrry him to the nearest garbage can and drop him head-first into it. Please, do us a favour.

As far as maintainance goes, EVERY version of AEG mechboxes, FAMAS to M-14 (and AEGs period) require the same amount of grease (once per year is fine), and oil (every few thosuand rounds, just a few drops of silicon oil into the loading tube where the BBs feed, dry fire a few times, prevents the hop up rubber from getting sticky and having BBs jam in your breech) maintainance to keep them running reliably.

[Omi-san]

The other major difference with the V2 is how the motor is not in a cage attached to the mechbox. It "floats" in the pistol grip. So It requires more adjustments and you can't test the mechbox without putting it back in the AEG.

[AngelusNex]

Originally Posted by Omi-san

and you can't test the mechbox without putting it back in the AEG.

yeah I found that too be a massive problem while working on my friends M4...

[Flatlander]

Originally Posted by m102404

I'm told...that if you're really lazy you can just hold the motor in the grip with your thumb....not that I'm that lazy

A teammate of mine was getting frusterated/impatient and did that to test his mechbox (without the grip). He wound up stripping his pinion gear on his brand new G&P 120 motor! It does work but I wouldn't recomend it.

[CDN_Stalker]

I actually do that all the time now to test cycle mechboxes, is no different than putting into the lower receiver except less steps. Came from frustration in troubleshooting stubborn mechboxes.

[Crunchmeister]

I cracked the mechbox in my C8. The only upgrades it's had was a Modify torque-up gear set and a Prometheus MS110SP spring - hardly an extreme upgrade. I got about 250 rounds out of it before I noticed it had feed problems and lost its power. Looking into the mag well, I saw the front end basically broken off my mechbox...

[Crunchmeister]

It was a TM mechbox that busted. It shouldn't have for such a mild upgrade. Then again, TM have been nothing buy headaches for me. Never buying another TM gun again.

[CDN_Stalker]

Originally Posted by m102404

I did say that you had to "hold" the motor up with your thumb...if you back off the pressure the best case is that you'll nip your pinion gear. Being fustrated and impatient while working on AEG problems is definitely a bad combo.

Or alternatively...you can put the heat sink on the grip and hold that if you're not so dexterous.

Chrunch: What make was the mechbox shell? Silver JG? Black JG? TM/CA/etc...?

Lol, I guess I should mention my lazy approach is to screw the grip on, put motor in, hook up wires, put baseplate on, test for semi and full auto. I guess Flatlander's bud took an even lazier approach.

[Sha Do]

Originally Posted by CDN_Stalker

Lol, I guess I should mention my lazy approach is to screw the grip on, put motor in, hook up wires, put baseplate on, test for semi and full auto. I guess Flatlander's bud took an even lazier approach.

This is the best way of checking performance of the mech box before complete reassembly. If you don't bother checking for performance before you completely reassemble your AEG, you're taking chances on having to tear it oall back down. There is a benifit of doing it how Stalker mentions.....if everything is cycling good with the hand grip screwed to the mech box, and then not so well when completely reassembled in your AEG, you know there is a body alignment problem.

SHA DO

[ProbeJax]

I've always been under the impression that V3s performed much better then V2s in cold weather. It true?

[CDN_Stalker]

Originally Posted by ProbeJax

I've always been under the impression that V3s performed much better then V2s in cold weather. It true?

Less prone to breaking the mechbox shell is really the only difference between the two. Aside from the motor cage, mechbox shell, tappet, spring guide and maybe cylinder head, (ok, trigger assembly and contacts) all parts are virtually the same between V2 and V3. So one won't out perform the other except for robustness.