Mechbox parts don't fit.

[Gigaknight]

I recently got my King Arms V3 mechbox (7mm) along with a King Arms stopper rail...

I'm putting everything in when I notice that the screws don't fit in their respective places; then the bushings are a bitch to get in with tools (I used a modify bushing tool). I'm thinking it's going to be okay until I try to put the stopper rail, which as I mentioned earlier is made by the same company; turns out that the rail doesn't fit properly and now I have to do some modifications to the mechbox and I don't have a freaking Dremel tool!

Has anyone else ever had a similar experience or possible solutions to my dilemma?

[Nova316]

U can also take a drill and find a bit thats smaller then the hole and spin it around to hole to remove just a tad of material. I usually do this since dremel cuts to much off and the drill just shaves a little, all u need is to remove a little bit of metal to get the bushings in.

[Amos]

... See... I would advise against removing material to fit bushings...

At most wrap some fine-grit sandpaper around a pen and remove a TINY bit at a time (check every 2 strokes)

[CDN_Stalker]

Can opener on a real Swiss Army knife will work at shaving off enough material as well. Even better since you can shave a bit, try for fit, then take off a bit more.

[Gigaknight]

Originally Posted by CDN_Stalker

Can opener on a real Swiss Army knife will work at shaving off enough material as well. Even better since you can shave a bit, try for fit, then take off a bit more.

Excelsior! Luckily I have a genuine Swiss Army knife! But now with that solved; what to do about the screw holes and the stopper rail?

[deep in the bush]

I sanded mine out by hand. It took a week but has worked like a charm since. I sanded everything inside the box. I took all paint off inside. I also had to mod the tapet plate.

[Gigaknight]

Originally Posted by deep in the bush

I sanded mine out by hand. It took a week but has worked like a charm since. I sanded everything inside the box. I took all paint off inside. I also had to mod the tapet plate.

Care to explain the sanding process in detail, along with the tappet plate mod? How about the stopper rail and the screw holes? That's my biggest problem right now; but thanks for everyone's input!!

Also, I need to get screws for the motor mount and one to attach my pro-win hop up to the mechbox, yes, a Pro-win g36 hop up.

[Kos-Mos]

How the screws are not going in?

The top rail is supposed to be VERY HARD to slide in place.

Mine requires a lot of hammering with a plastic piece and a hammer, or flat screw driver (in the littel notch) and hammer.

[Gigaknight]

The screws are either too big for the hole or the holes are too small for the screws. :P

I'm not talk about the screws that hold the two halves together; I'm talking about the screw that keeps the cut-off lever and switch assembly in place.

[deep in the bush]

I used a very fine sandpaper (yellow). i took about a week to sand it out. I sanded out entire insides. I then shaved a small bit off the from of the tapet plate...made the edges less pronounced at the front more rounded...it stopped the tapet plate from getting stuck in position. . I never had screw for the inner switch assembly. It just sat in place and stayed, I sure hope we are talking about same inside part. what part number to be exact. I sanded down the outer area where the selector plate sits too. it helped with the selector plate moving better.

my top rail requires a hammer and a screwdriver to put in place. it is very tight..it will loosen with age...like all of us

for screws just go to any good industrial suppier of fasteners. it will save you a mint. take the box with you. they will have what you need at a fraction of cost.

[Kos-Mos]

The holes should be treaded. If not, check if you have metal or machine screws. You might have to use self-tapping instead.

[Gigaknight]

The holes are threaded and now my stopper rail is cracked, lots of fun here. :P
I guess I'll look into self-tapping screws.

Although I sanded the tappet and selector plates along with the switch assembly, it runs pretty smooth now.
Does anyone know the proper size screws needed to attach the motor mount AND a pro-win hop up?

[deep in the bush]

Originally Posted by Gigaknight

The holes are threaded and now my stopper rail is cracked, lots of fun here. :P
I guess I'll look into self-tapping screws.

Although I sanded the tappet and selector plates along with the switch assembly, it runs pretty smooth now.
Does anyone know the proper size screws needed to attach the motor mount AND a pro-win hop up?

I think I used m3 screws....try this site

http://www.brafasco.com/site/Products_Services.html

[deep in the bush]

Originally Posted by Gigaknight

The screws are either too big for the hole or the holes are too small for the screws. :P

I'm not talk about the screws that hold the two halves together; I'm talking about the screw that keeps the cut-off lever and switch assembly in place.

ok I just checked mine. I used a screw from an old AK hop up to get the proper fit. the small screw in the hopup fits perfect.

[Gigaknight]

Heh, screw it; I think I'll just sand and polish my mechbox, strip the screw threads (Switch assembly and cut off lever) and just glue them in; they don't move much so the glue will keep them in place with minimal stress. Now I just need to get a new friggin stopper rail!