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July 17th, 2008, 12:05 | #1 |
Custom Length Inner Barrel
I'm contemplating putting a mock silencer on my MP5, and using a longer tight bore barrel. Should I find somewhere that sells them to custom lengths? Or should I buy one longer than I need and cut it down myself? I was thinking a dremel tool would be able to do the job without damaging it.
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July 17th, 2008, 12:35 | #2 |
You can use a dremel if you're careful but you'll also need to debur the cut end after. I have no idea what tools would be best for that.
Quick Google search gave me this: http://www.airsoftohio.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=18649
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JG HK416 KWA USP |
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July 17th, 2008, 12:40 | #3 |
I found it easier just to find a longer inner barrel that are already cut by the manufacturer, then cut the fake DIY silencer to match using plumbers pipe cutter and putting a metal washer on the front end. Held on using spare flash hider or your current one on back end.
I like to leave a 1/2" from the end of the inner barrel to the end of the fake silencer so that you can't see the inner barrel. Kid of makes it more real looking imo rather than having the inner barrel go right to the front end of the silencer.
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July 17th, 2008, 12:42 | #4 |
I've cut down 2 barrels now. I used a pipe cutter to completely cut through the barrel, and the filed down the inside edge since the pipe cutter pushes metal inwards making BB's not able to pass through. Once the inside edge is filed down enough to let BB's pass through unobstructed, my barrel was as accurate as any other barrel.
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July 17th, 2008, 12:53 | #5 |
if you are looking for accuracy, get the tanio koba twist.
it will probably give you as much accuracy as double the length of what it is. |
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July 17th, 2008, 13:41 | #6 |
aka SNK or Shaniqua
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Isn't that FPS limited though?
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SHÖCK |
July 17th, 2008, 13:44 | #7 |
You can cut it with a Dremel cut off wheel, but be careful. The thin cutoff wheels snap easily, they make ones that are fiber reinforced. I use those all the time.
Cut it to the exact length you want, then debure / "crown" the inside of the fresh cut, so that there's no burrs inside the tip. Don't take off too much material, just enough so that there's no burrs / obstruction at the tip. You can use a fine "pointy grinding tip" on the Dremel to do this. Try not to score the inside of the barrel. |
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July 17th, 2008, 17:52 | #8 |
Not Eye Safe, Pretty Boy Maximus on the field take his picture!
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Hacksaw and a rat tail file, I'm amazed the gun was still just as accurate afterwards lol
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July 17th, 2008, 22:55 | #9 |
Tys
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I don't use a pipe cutter...the last one I saw that was done with a pipe cutter had a bulge at the end where the brass was deformed by the cutter wheel.
Hack saw...90deg sanding grinder to true up the end...hand file (mill file) to finish the end/bevel the outer edge. I use a very large drill bit to deburr and cut the crown (EDIT: turned by hand, not power tool). I then finish the crown with a very light touch with 800-1200 grit wet dry wrapped around the tapered section of a large punch (not to remove any material, just to make sure there aren't any tiny burrs). Check for irregularities and you're done. Make sure you measure twice... Last edited by m102404; July 17th, 2008 at 23:31.. |
July 17th, 2008, 23:09 | #10 |
Official ASC Bladesmith
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Hacksaw here, then use the poorman's 90deg lathe................ barrel in drill, Dremel with cut off wheel in other hand, straighten out the cut, then I use a reloader's deburring tool to crown the inside edge and outside, then needle files and fine Dremel bits to clean the edges after. Perfection and easy.
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