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September 3rd, 2008, 13:58 | #1 |
Inner barrel length question
Hey,
I was thinkning about installing a tightbore on my M4A1, now I looked at the technical reference post in here about cylinders and it lists in there that I can put a max inner barrel length of 430mm with the current cylinder, now would it work if I had a 450mm inner barrel and cut it down to 430mm because I also plan to install a silencer? or does anyone know where I could get a 430mm inner barrel? I looked at airsoftparts.ca but the only have the 450mm. Thanks
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"Forgiveness is between them and god, it's my job to arrange the meeting" |
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September 3rd, 2008, 16:08 | #2 |
aka coachster
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just have the inner barrel extend into the silencer.
I'm going to be putting in a mad bull 509mm TB in my TM M4 soon but I do have the Mad Bull JP Rifles 12" hand guard kit that comes with 4 barrel lengths to extend it since I do not want a silencer on it. |
September 3rd, 2008, 16:22 | #3 |
yes I know that I will extend it into the silencer, but I am wondering about barrel suck (I think that's what it's called). There was a good write up done in here about cylinder matching. I am wondering if I can just cut down the inner barrel. Will that hurt anything when using the gun?
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"Forgiveness is between them and god, it's my job to arrange the meeting" |
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September 3rd, 2008, 16:30 | #4 |
Tys
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If the barrel is brass you can simply cut the barrel back to the exact length that you need. Take care to ensure that the muzzle is perpendicular to the bore and that there aren't any burrs on the lip of the bore. Crowning is a popular method to remove burrs and clean up the muzzle. If you don't know what crowning is google it.
If the barrel is aluminum you can do the same as brass, but it's not advised to do that to barrels that have an bore lining treatment. If the barrel is stainless steel, you can do it as well, but it's a much harder material to cut accurately (without power tools) and tidying things up afterwards is tough too. I'd advise against cutting a barrel with a pipe cutter. They'll typically bulge the end of the barrel and leave a less than desirable end. A straight cut with a hacksaw (fine tooth metal blade) and some careful work with a mill file is all that's usually required. It comes down to how careful you are. Best of luck, Tys |
September 3rd, 2008, 16:46 | #5 |
Thanks
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"Forgiveness is between them and god, it's my job to arrange the meeting" |
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September 3rd, 2008, 21:30 | #6 |
honestly, I havent seen a teeny bit of difference in performance between 363mm and the AK type 455mm.
actually, my 363mm fired much more accurately. that was mainly because it had H-Hop and rubber |
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September 3rd, 2008, 22:52 | #7 |
Official ASC Bladesmith
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Poor man's lathe! A Dremel (with cut off disk), an electric drill , and a needle file! I use an RS deburring tool to debur and crown, then finish with the needle file while the barrel is spinning.
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September 3rd, 2008, 23:47 | #8 |
Buy a different cylinder
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September 3rd, 2008, 23:50 | #9 |
Official ASC Bladesmith
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Ported cylinder can be found in M4s with the 470mm length barrel, but that is pushing it. 450mm should be ok for you with the ported one. Only thing you'll lose is a couple 10s of fps, in which case a bit stronger srping or full cylinder will get you up by compensation.
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September 4th, 2008, 02:23 | #10 |
Great info guys, thanks a bunch :tup:
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"Forgiveness is between them and god, it's my job to arrange the meeting" |
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