Winter worries?

[shadow_matter]

Good afternoon,

I have a CA G36c that has a simple metal bushing and spring upgrade and shoots 335-345fps with .20's. Is this winter-skirmishable? or is the fps getting up into the hazzardous range?

I know that stock fps is best for m4's in the winter to minimize stress to the gearbox, but this is a ver.3 style box and I am not sure if that same rule carries over.

This will be my first winter where I am playing outdoors, so I do not have alot of experience with cold weather AEG operation, although I know any GBB is out.

Also, are there any tips/ tidbits of advice on how to stay warm and dry? I have issued Marpat BDU's now but I suspect that they will soak through in no time.

Thank you all.

- Ryan

[Alphaj1]

i have the same question except my gun is a cyb/jg sig 552, stock

[The Saint]

All mechboxes are subject to the same constraints in winter: internal stress versus metal being more brittle in the cold. Some version of mechboxes are tougher than other. V3 is tougher than v2. Barring manufacturing defect and all else being equal, a v3 will survive longer than v2 at the same temperature.

Based on my own experience, I'd say 340ish isn't a problem for a v3.

[Brian McIlmoyle]

Worst that can happen is it prangs.. and you will need to fix it

Buy the best gear you can afford.

GORTEX Shell ( Ok I wear mine under my Smock ) and layered up under.
Start with a thin dryfit shirt.. layer a wool sweater then a polypro fleece over it then the shell .. then the smock.. and you are good to go to -15

I have a pair of old CF issue windpants .. very thick windproof fabric and rubber reinforced knees and seat .. they are gold for winter or wet cold wear.
Polypro long johns under..

Gortex boots.. Merano Wool socks

A scarf... Thin anti contact gloves.. medium weight insulated gloves .. a pair of neopene gloves .. and a pair of high loft hunters mittens..

all surplus... you should be kitted for $300-400 .. If you go new $600 to $800

buy a stainless steel Thermos minimum 500 ml -- 1 l is better

[Nervikaire]

At that strenght, there should be no issue for your V.3. However, don't over use full auto. It will greatly help reduce the stress on the gearbox. As for staying warm and dry, water resistant/proof outer layer, multiple layers underneath, having a layer of fleece is always a good bet. Using a close to body layer is also a good idea (undershirt/long johns etc)

[Alphaj1]

Originally Posted by The Saint

All mechboxes are subject to the same constraints in winter: internal stress versus metal being more brittle in the cold. Some version of mechboxes are tougher than other. V3 is tougher than v2. Barring manufacturing defect and all else being equal, a v3 will survive longer than v2 at the same temperature.

Based on my own experience, I'd say 340ish isn't a problem for a v3.

So my sig, which runs at 380 will be problematic? Not even sure of the mechbox, i think it is v2

[The Saint]

SIGs use v3. I'd be a little concerned at 380fps, but honestly, how cold does it ever get in Richmond?

[Alphaj1]

ahhh well, there are no fields in Richmond, so i play in Surrey-not much difference but it gets pretty cold (for the lower mainland that is)

[Styrak]

Originally Posted by Alphaj1

ahhh well, there are no fields in Richmond, so i play in Surrey-not much difference but it gets pretty cold (for the lower mainland that is)

Cold in BC close to the coast? Psh. (I've lived there)
I wouldn't worry.
And if you DO happen break a mechbox shell somehow? Then buy a new shell, they're fairly cheap.

[Alphaj1]

well, no it doest get sakatoon cold (been there 3 times)
But it gets cold enough-cold enough for an asian man that is haha

[shadow_matter]

Thanks alot for your views. It seems as though there is a concensus that my mechbox is within acceptable limits without asking for major trouble.

Does having a metal body actually affect the fragility (spelling?) of the mechbox? I know that the metal will cool down alot faster than plastic, has anyone had a problem excellerated by this? I have a FMU m733 but I am a little skeptical since it clocks in at 360fps.

[Styrak]

Mechboxes and bodies don't have any parts that move together(besides the selector), and bodies don't have a mechbox piston bashing against them or anything, so no problems with that.

[Cpl T. Syndrome]

I'd suggest using a Ni-Cad battery over a Nim-Mah..They tend to last longer in colder temperatures..Just remember to charge a Ni-Cad you need to first "discharge" it..Also forget bout usin your GBB if you have one..Gas does not "flow" to well when cold. As well, you might want to open the mech box and re-lube the internals making sure there's not excessive "butter" in there that could gel up on ya...Hope this helps, and enjoy your first hit on bare skin at -20!!!!

[shadow_matter]

haha, at -20 I doubt I'll be toting any bare skin.

[Gunny_McSmith]

I wouldnt play with expensive guns during winter....like a CA .... And you could have a extension for your bateery so you could but the battery in you pocket and that should keep it was a bit....

And i have another question.... Would a spring powered gun be affected by the cold... I know the spring will be stiffer but would it be damaged? Or could it possibly break?