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ICS L85A2 mechbox review

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Old January 17th, 2009, 12:25   #1
LUTNIT
 
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ICS L85A2 mechbox review

Recently I picked up an ICS L85A2 and when searching for reviews about the internals I got a lot of mixed information. I could find loads of information and reviews about the external bits and features but little about the mechbox internals. I read everything from it having a proprietary spur gear like TM M14's, extra long cylinder, custom piston head, uses a custom motor type, etc. etc. but not everyone said the same things. So I am writting a review of the internals to make everything clear.

First up is the mechbox itself. I have already removed the variable spring guide and spring but information on this is everywhere as its a main feature so I wont go over it again.


As you can see it is a completely custom mechbox type so don't break it, currently there is no way to get replacements from ICS. On that note the mechbox is a brick and you would have a hard time breaking it anyway. As you can see there is reinforcement around the bushings to prevent cracking between the holes and the cylinder isn't as visible as in some mechbox types because of how much metal there is around it. The gun comes with an ICS Turbo 3000 motor which has a higher speed, higher torque, and produces less noise than a Turbo 2000.


Photo is out of focus but its still obvious that the gun uses a non-standard motor spring. The hole the pinion gear on the motor goes through is much larger than normal so the smaller standard spring (on the left) would just pass through and you would have no spring. The custom spring fit on the SystemA turbo motor (short type) I installed no problem. The motor cage comes off in a similar fashion to a ver.3 mechbox.


The cut off lever is made from solid steel and is external to the mechbox. It comes off easily enough but that little spring is a bitch to get back on compared to many other guns (TM M14 for example, since it also has an external cut off lever.)


Other than the one little screw that goes above the spring guide all the screws are the same size and threading. There are no worries about which screw goes where. On the note of screws if you tighten the little screw as much as you would a normal mechbox screw the spring guide wont go in, so tighten it after setting the spring guide to lock it even further in place.


The anti-reversal is a proprietary part, at least its different from the ver.2, 3, and 7 anti-reversals I have kicking around. The spring is also longer on the bit that sticks out than normal anti-reversal springs but a normal anti-reversal spring does fit and work.


7mm metal bushings so no worries there and they seem to be different from the standard ICS bushings. Normally ICS has slightly larger axles on their gears but these seem totally standard as my HurricanE highspeed gears fit without any wobble and spin free. As you can see there is lots of metal around the gears so no worries about anything cracking at Canadian fps limits.


The gun comes with a white nylon piston (thankfully not an ICS aluminum mechbox wrecker) and black I'm guessing polycarb piston head. The piston head is longer than standard and I have no idea why as it uses a standard cylinder and ver.2 cylinder head.


Quick shot of the front of the mechbox with components still inside. The nozzle appears to be a standard ver.2 and I don't have a side by side but it is a match to spare TM M4 nozzles I have.


The tappet plate is indeed custom but upon closer inspection it is the exact same dimensions as an armalite tappet over all. The bottom red one is a King Arms enhanced tappet. One thing to notice is the lug that holds the spring is further back on the L85 one but at the same time the tappet plate spring is longer. I didn't test it for function by firing it but the mechbox assembled and the nozzle moved properly with the King Arms one in it.


Standard ICS looking gears. They do fit in SystemA metal bushings without problem so unlike previous ICS gears they don't have enlarged axles.


Standard ver.2 M4/16 cylinder head. Used a caliper to make sure and its the same as a TM to 0.15mm at most.


As said earlier it has a standard cylinder, no extra long non-sense. Left is a stock TM cylinder from an M4, right is the L85 cylinder. It is a non-ported straight cylinder as it has a 509mm inner barrel, same as an M16 but this gun is as short as a CQBR.


Here I have installed a MASK piston head on a Guarder polycarb piston and installed a Sorbo pad on the cylinder head. I was originally worried about the piston head not working because the stock one is extra thick, but 2000rnds later and the piston has next to no wear on it so I guess standard ver.2/3 parts work fine.


One thing was the white o-ring that came with the MASK piston head provided zero airseal. I put the stock black o-ring that came with the L85 on the MASK piston head and it got airseal. The airseal is actually amazing considering it has a non-airseal nozzle and single o-ring cylinder head. The only gun that did as well (not any better) on a compression test was my ICS M4A1 upper mechbox with all stainless performance components with airseal nozzle.

I don't have any pictures of it but the inner barrel is actually aluminum, not brass. Much like JBU and Madbull barrels (but not coated like Madbull.) The hopup is a non-standard design and is made from plastic as far as I can tell (though a VERY hard plastic, almost made me think it was metal until I scratched it.) I'm not sure on the inner diameter of the barrel but both JBU and Madbull aluminum barrels are 6.03's so this may be as well.

Overall I am actually quite impressed with how far ICS has come. I have worked on some early generation ICS M4's and they have been no where near as nice a build as this one. There was just enough lube and the shimming was spot on. I will get some more fps results later but so far all I have is the following.

Modify M100 spring
minimum strength setting: 260fps with BB Bastard .20's
maximum strength setting: 330fps with BB Bastard .20's

I will be putting in a Modify M110 later and see what it does. I don't want to go above an M110 because I have highspeed gears and a turbo motor in there. Its currently shooting 29rps but I hope to bring that to 35rps with a custom 10.8V high drain battery I ordered that I am waiting for.

The only bits I have to say about the externals is that an ACOG will mount on the 19mm rail it comes with but is far too low for me, I need to practically break my cheek bone to look through it. I ordered a STAR standard weaver rail adapter for the top and it fits perfectly and rises the ACOG to the perfect height. The trigger pull is quite a bit harder than normal AEG's so quick semi-auto shots is far more tiring on your finger and hand. The gun DOES NOT have a threaded barrel. When you remove the flash hider you have a bare straight outer barrel that the allen screw in the flash hider digs into.

The trigger is actually an amazing design. It reminds me more of a Colt 1911 hammer/trigger setup than an AEG trigger. When you pull the trigger it pulls a sear back that releases, a for lack of a better term, a hammer that is spring loaded and snaps the contacts together far faster than a human finger can in a normal AEG. This greatly cuts down on the arcing and wear on the contacts as well gives a far more realistic trigger pull, much more realistic feeling than even a PTW (take note I have only ever fired hunting rifles and shotguns, I have never fired a real L85.) There was worry about the electrical works not having much metal in them and reducing maximum current flow but I took a measure of the volume of the copper bars in the lower receiver over 1cm and it is equal to 12awg wire in volume, far thicker than anything in a normal AEG. There is the issue of the contacts between lower and upper receivers and it could be a point of resistance. I am looking into rewiring the spring loaded contacts with a deans plug somewhere but haven't had much time to work on it.

That about sums up the internals review for the ICS L85A2. Any questions just post em up and I will try to answer to the best of my ability.

Last edited by LUTNIT; January 17th, 2009 at 12:37..
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Old January 17th, 2009, 13:23   #2
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Impressive mechbox and impressive review, thanks.

It looks like they rounded the cylinder window area to avoid fractures around 90 degree angles.
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Old January 18th, 2009, 20:57   #3
LUTNIT
 
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I find Madbull springs to be stronger than they are rated for. I have a Madbull M130 and it shoots a notch below a Prometheus Ms150 in my TM M14.
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Old January 21st, 2009, 17:29   #4
LUTNIT
 
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The ones you listed should work, they just need to be bent at 45' so they fit on the motor.

Also your cylinder broke a tooth? You mean your piston? I have never really used stock ICS nylon pistons for any length of time so I can't comment on their reliability.

As for the gun not firing on semi and blowing fuses on auto, sounds like what happened to me. It is actually similar to why PTW's blow fuses. The motor adjustment screw is loose and actually tightens as you fire, seizing the mechbox. You need to loctite it in place (medium strength so you can still adjust it later, I think its the blue one) so it doesn't move while firing. Also I always remove the fuses from my guns as they are more hassle than anything. As long as you know not to hold down the trigger when the mechbox isn't cycling, the fuse has no purpose.

On another note, one of the "never lost" pins fell out of my gun when I was swapping the spring. Its a crappy little clip that keeps the pin from falling out of the receiver, its nothing like the slick system in PTW's for the pins to not fall out. It doesn't really matter since its held in so tight, just make sure not to loose em when adjusting things.

Installed a Modify Ms110 spring at the minimum strength spring guide position and now mine is shooting 380-390fps with BB Bastard 0.20's.
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Old January 23rd, 2009, 14:32   #5
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must be a cutoff lever malfunction! or trigger contacts, there is a wicked set of contacts in this gun. remove your spring and cylinder assy then close the mechbox and spin the gears with your hands and look if the cutoff lever works properly!

hope this helps!
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Old January 23rd, 2009, 22:26   #6
LUTNIT
 
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Really weird....

The cut off lever is external to the mechbox, its the black steel armature I removed in one of the first pics. Firing one shot then locking up sounds like what my ICS M4A1 did at one point, the spring on the cut off lever was fubar.

As for the motor thats really weird. I didn't fiddle with the Turbo 3000 that was in it to start with but the SystemA turbo meshes with the gears properly when its backed almost all the way out.
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Old September 2nd, 2009, 12:28   #7
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Hello

I just read your post on the L85A2 Mechbox Awesome review indeed..

i have recently purchased an L85A2 (ICS) from another ASC member and got the gun last week...

One issue i am having with it (and my gun tech here has no idea as he has never had an L85 is the following

when Power is connected and the gun set to Semi Auto... I pull the trigger and the gun fires one shot (As expected) then the trigger stays in the pulled position does not spring back

I can push the trigger back with my finger and pull again and another shot so it works just stays put when pulled

now on full auto all is fine trigger springs back all good

now strange thing is disconnect the battery and do the same on Semi and the trigger snaps back into forward position like it should...

so only on semi auto and with power connected does the trigger stay in the pulled position...

any thoughts.....

also on yours when you fire a few shots on Full and then stop does the mechbox have an after sound like it is pulling back the piston... it only happens some times not all the time... I just thought that weird but perhaps it is normal

thanks for your help
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Old January 12th, 2010, 03:01   #8
sidekick022
 
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Hi
My first airsoft gun is the ICS L85a2, been playing with it for over two months. Just got the G&G Susat Kite for it and works perfectly. But with my foolish move, I remove the Flash hider and was unable to put it back together because the screws got all mess up during the removable. Is there any type of silencers I can put on the barrels?
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Old January 13th, 2010, 18:04   #9
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Never have seen an L85 gearbox before, but seeing as it uses the same stuff every other gearbox has...
If you're firing on full auto and sometimes when you stop firing it makes a gear noise. Than it is most likely your anti-reversal latch that is failing. The sound your hearing is your gears being driven backwards by your half pulled back piston. Just a suggestion on that part.
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Old January 13th, 2010, 18:50   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonoats View Post
Never have seen an L85 gearbox before, but seeing as it uses the same stuff every other gearbox has...
If you're firing on full auto and sometimes when you stop firing it makes a gear noise. Than it is most likely your anti-reversal latch that is failing. The sound your hearing is your gears being driven backwards by your half pulled back piston. Just a suggestion on that part.
the l85 trigger is completly diffrent then any AEG theres a seperate box and housing in the front for it.
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Old January 13th, 2010, 23:56   #11
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Originally Posted by KoolAidMan View Post
the l85 trigger is completly diffrent then any AEG theres a seperate box and housing in the front for it.
I wasn't referring to the trigger problem. I was trying to give T-hell an explaination to the last portion of his post:

...also on yours when you fire a few shots on Full and then stop does the mechbox have an after sound like it is pulling back the piston... it only happens some times not all the time... I just thought that weird but perhaps it is normal ...
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Old January 14th, 2010, 02:06   #12
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My issue was resolved when I got some missing parts (anti Reversal) from the ASC Seller (he forgot it) and also there was a broken Pin inside the trigger mech that was broken when I got it...

there were a lot of issues such as Bad shimming (really bad) Missing Mechbox parts Cracked motor housing freyed wires, a broken pin in the trigger housing a stripped piston, a piston head that looked like it was attacked with a dremmel just to name a few this gun is very hard to find parts for and when you do they cost $$$ to ship in

anywho I bought the gun end of summer Sap some time I guess in 09 and have yet to game it as our team tech has been cursing the seller trying to make this puppy work...

I think it is about 98% ready just greasing and good to go.. it has been a long haul. so much so that I would not purchase from this member again.. if he is a gun tech I am the pope..
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Old February 27th, 2010, 10:58   #13
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Just got myself one of these, and there's an issue with repetition fire. The trigger doesn't return to battery, it stays pulled. If I manually push it back and pull it again it will fire off a single shot (like it's suppose to) but again, stays pulled. Full auto works fine.

I'm completely unfamiliar with this trigger design. Any ideas where I might look?
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Old February 27th, 2010, 17:19   #14
T-Hell
 
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same issue I had..

Toast resolved this issue for me by replacing a broken pin in the lower mechanism

if you can't do that get in touch with Mach 1 airsoft they had some parts for the L85A2 (ICS) they can sell you....

as far as I know they are the only ones with parts for the ICS L85A2


it is in the lower mechanism all together. there is a plastic pin in there that is probably broken... mine was replaced by metal and is now fine..

on single fire it used to lock after shooting
on full auto all was fine...
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Old February 27th, 2010, 23:42   #15
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Originally Posted by T-Hell View Post
same issue I had..

Toast resolved this issue for me by replacing a broken pin in the lower mechanism

if you can't do that get in touch with Mach 1 airsoft they had some parts for the L85A2 (ICS) they can sell you....

as far as I know they are the only ones with parts for the ICS L85A2


it is in the lower mechanism all together. there is a plastic pin in there that is probably broken... mine was replaced by metal and is now fine..

on single fire it used to lock after shooting
on full auto all was fine...
if it's possible could you take pictures of the exact pin for reference? and repairing it for future and past owners
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