Installing an Upgraded Spring

[]D[][]\/[][]D · January 22nd, 2009, 22:30

Which end of this spring would the spring guide go into, the left side or the right side?

I'm going to take guess and say the left side because it's less coiled and probably would spring out harder than the other side. But please correct me if I'm wrong.

coach · January 22nd, 2009, 22:31

I believe the irregular side goes on the spring guide.

[]D[][]\/[][]D · January 22nd, 2009, 22:32

So left side or right side on the pic? I don't know what you mean by irregular.

Jugglez · January 22nd, 2009, 22:34

Tighter coils to the spring guide.

[]D[][]\/[][]D · January 22nd, 2009, 22:36

Cool, thanks!

m102404 · January 22nd, 2009, 22:59

when you're closing it up...don't have the spring guide end of the mechbox pointed at anything that won't take a good shot (i.e. TV, your face, coffee cup...etc...) if you slip.

Just saying...

coach · January 22nd, 2009, 23:18

Quote:

Originally Posted by m102404

when you're closing it up...don't have the spring guide end of the mechbox pointed at anything that won't take a good shot (i.e. TV, your face, coffee cup...etc...) if you slip.

Just saying...

from experience?

m102404 · January 22nd, 2009, 23:30

Yeah...I shot a M120 powered bearing spring guide out once...knocked over my coffee all over my workbench and smacked into my workshop TV (about 2 feet away). Surprisingly it didn't break the tube...but I thought for sure it did by the sound of the impact.

Another darwin move is putting one together with the spring guide facing your chest if you're up close to the table...not that the spring guide hitting you in the chest hurts...but it'll shoot the half open mechbox away from you across the workbench and scatter all the pieces, definitely ruining your shimming...

I learn from failure....and it seems as though I learn something new everyday

[]D[][]\/[][]D · January 22nd, 2009, 23:44

Quote:

Originally Posted by m102404

I learn from failure....and it seems as though I learn something new everyday

So true!

So can I ask you something? Why is it everytime I when I try close the gearbox back up somehow the top right corner where the cylinder head and air seal nozzle is, it just won't close up completely? I always have a hard time closing up the gearbox because of that and I just can't figure out what it could be.

It just won't close up.

Styrak · January 22nd, 2009, 23:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by m102404

Yeah...I shot a M120 powered bearing spring guide out once...knocked over my coffee all over my workbench and smacked into my workshop TV (about 2 feet away). Surprisingly it didn't break the tube...but I thought for sure it did by the sound of the impact.

I've had experiences like that. Not so epic though...just that the wall took a beating once or twice.

[]D[][]\/[][]D · January 23rd, 2009, 00:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by []D[][]\/[][]D

So true!

So can I ask you something? Why is it everytime I when I try close the gearbox back up somehow the top right corner where the cylinder head and air seal nozzle is, it just won't close up completely? I always have a hard time closing up the gearbox because of that and I just can't figure out what it could be.

It just won't close up.

Nevermind, I just figured out what was causing it to be stuck open. It was the peg that's supposed to go into the hole on the side of the cylinder head. Stupid stock TM rubber cylinder heads! If I had an aluminum cylinder head I probably wouldn't have that issue.

m102404 · January 23rd, 2009, 00:32

I think that the nub on the inside of the right half of the mechbox shell isn't getting into the hole in the cylinder head.

The cylinder/cylinder head is being "lifted" at the back end by the spring tension (which is bowing the spring). That puts the head on an angle.

If you use a finger to push the cylinder down flat as you're closing it up...it might just pop into place (the satisfying "clunk" when the mechbox shell closes and everything is in place).

It could also be from the tappet plate edge, which rides in a track on both mechbox halves, not slipping into place.

You just end up getting a knack for doing it after a while...it's something I find very hard to describe in words...but easy to demonstrate in person.

That's a version 3 right? I've sometimes found that the switch assembly "housing" gets out of place. It's kind of loose/flimsy..but stays in place when the mechbox is closed. See how the wires are under the mechbox...as you're pushing down, the wiring is pushing the switch assembly up. Might not be the cause...but it ain't helping.

Best of luck...when you hit max frustration, take a break (release spring tension!) and come back to it later...

Tys

[]D[][]\/[][]D · January 23rd, 2009, 00:36

Naw, I got it, thanks! I just finished closing the gearbox back up with the new upgraded spring. I've never had a issue installing springs, it's when I try and close up the gearbox. But I finally figured it out and I'll know next time what to do when it happens again. Thanks!

Styrak · January 23rd, 2009, 00:39

When that happens, you probably just have to pull the top half of the gearbox forward while pushing down, and it'll snap into place.

milehigh · January 23rd, 2009, 00:52

What brand of gearbox is it? I recently went through the same issue while trying to assemble a King Arms version 3 7mm bearing gearbox. The cylinder head area of the gearbox was somehow defective, and the two halves would not close.

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January 22nd, 2009, 22:30	#1
[]D[][]\/[][]D $[]D[][]\/[][]D's Avatar$ Trader rating Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Scarborough, ON	Installing an Upgraded Spring Which end of this spring would the spring guide go into, the left side or the right side? I'm going to take guess and say the left side because it's less coiled and probably would spring out harder than the other side. But please correct me if I'm wrong.
$[]D[][]\/[][]D is offline$

January 22nd, 2009, 22:32	#3
[]D[][]\/[][]D $[]D[][]\/[][]D's Avatar$ Trader rating Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Scarborough, ON	So left side or right side on the pic? I don't know what you mean by irregular.
$[]D[][]\/[][]D is offline$

January 22nd, 2009, 22:34	#4
Jugglez Trader rating Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Swimming in a pool of Xpresspost receipts.... Toronto - 400/401	Tighter coils to the spring guide. __________________

January 22nd, 2009, 22:31	#2
coach aka coachster Trader rating Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: T dot	I believe the irregular side goes on the spring guide.

January 22nd, 2009, 22:36	#5
[]D[][]\/[][]D $[]D[][]\/[][]D's Avatar$ Trader rating Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Scarborough, ON	Cool, thanks!
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January 22nd, 2009, 22:59	#6
m102404 Tys Trader rating Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Toronto	when you're closing it up...don't have the spring guide end of the mechbox pointed at anything that won't take a good shot (i.e. TV, your face, coffee cup...etc...) if you slip. Just saying...

January 22nd, 2009, 23:30	#8
m102404 Tys Trader rating Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Toronto	Yeah...I shot a M120 powered bearing spring guide out once...knocked over my coffee all over my workbench and smacked into my workshop TV (about 2 feet away). Surprisingly it didn't break the tube...but I thought for sure it did by the sound of the impact. Another darwin move is putting one together with the spring guide facing your chest if you're up close to the table...not that the spring guide hitting you in the chest hurts...but it'll shoot the half open mechbox away from you across the workbench and scatter all the pieces, definitely ruining your shimming... I learn from failure....and it seems as though I learn something new everyday

January 23rd, 2009, 00:32	#12
m102404 Tys Trader rating Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Toronto	I think that the nub on the inside of the right half of the mechbox shell isn't getting into the hole in the cylinder head. The cylinder/cylinder head is being "lifted" at the back end by the spring tension (which is bowing the spring). That puts the head on an angle. If you use a finger to push the cylinder down flat as you're closing it up...it might just pop into place (the satisfying "clunk" when the mechbox shell closes and everything is in place). It could also be from the tappet plate edge, which rides in a track on both mechbox halves, not slipping into place. You just end up getting a knack for doing it after a while...it's something I find very hard to describe in words...but easy to demonstrate in person. That's a version 3 right? I've sometimes found that the switch assembly "housing" gets out of place. It's kind of loose/flimsy..but stays in place when the mechbox is closed. See how the wires are under the mechbox...as you're pushing down, the wiring is pushing the switch assembly up. Might not be the cause...but it ain't helping. Best of luck...when you hit max frustration, take a break (release spring tension!) and come back to it later... Tys

January 23rd, 2009, 00:36	#13
[]D[][]\/[][]D $[]D[][]\/[][]D's Avatar$ Trader rating Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Scarborough, ON	Naw, I got it, thanks! I just finished closing the gearbox back up with the new upgraded spring. I've never had a issue installing springs, it's when I try and close up the gearbox. But I finally figured it out and I'll know next time what to do when it happens again. Thanks!
$[]D[][]\/[][]D is offline$

January 23rd, 2009, 00:39	#14
Styrak Trader rating Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Saskatoon, SK	When that happens, you probably just have to pull the top half of the gearbox forward while pushing down, and it'll snap into place. __________________ Airsoft Sales and Repair/Upgrade Services

January 23rd, 2009, 00:52	#15
milehigh Trader rating Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Victoria	What brand of gearbox is it? I recently went through the same issue while trying to assemble a King Arms version 3 7mm bearing gearbox. The cylinder head area of the gearbox was somehow defective, and the two halves would not close.

Installing an Upgraded Spring

Upgrades & Modifications