High Speed Gearbox Upgrade

[Rotting]

I've been looking around at information regarding a High Speed Gearbox upgrade and was wondering if I have all this done right. I know that no one company makes the best of every part out there, which is why I'm asking here. I usually hear a lot of good things about Modify, but I'm sure they're not the best for everything. Anyway here's what I've come up with:

* 1ea.- Modify Enhanced Cylinder (300mm-450mm)
* 1ea.- Modify Polycarbonate Piston - Full Teeth
* 1ea.- Modify Enhanced Cylinder Head - V3 (Except AUG)
* 1ea.- Modify V2/V3/V6 High Speed Gearset
* 1ea.- Modify Bearing Spring Guide - V3
* 1ea.- Modify S100 AEG Upgrade Spring
* 1ea.- Modify Stainless Steel Shims
* 1ea.- King Arms 8mm Bearing Bushings
* 1ea.- Modify Air Seal Nozzle - SIG Series
* 1ea.- Modify Enhanced Tappet - V3

The most basic thing I know about a full high-speed upgrade is that everything needs to be made of some kind of metal. No plastic is allowed. I haven't got it included in that list above, but I also know I'm going to need a 7mm or 8mm reinforced gearbox, and alsoa 9.6v battery, but I have no clue what would be recommended for those.

This is all going into a SiG552, just so readers know what I'm dealing with.

If anything is up there that shouldn't be, due to bad reception, or if I'm completely missing something that I need for a high-speed gearbox revamp, please let me know

Thanks.

[LUTNIT]

* 1ea.- Modify Enhanced Cylinder (300mm-450mm) - very good
* 1ea.- Modify Polycarbonate Piston - Full Teeth - good in any gun but an ICS armalite
* 1ea.- Modify Enhanced Cylinder Head - V3 (Except AUG) - yuppers, double o-ring for the win
* 1ea.- Modify V2/V3/V6 High Speed Gearset - I have had HORRIBLE results with Modify gears. I use SystemA, Prometheus, HurricanE, or Guarder. SystemA all helical type highspeed gears are the best I have found so far, don't use them anymore as I stripped them trying to run an Ms130 spring at 30 rounds/second
* 1ea.- Modify Bearing Spring Guide - V3 - good
* 1ea.- Modify S100 AEG Upgrade Spring - if you are using a spring this weak, you will need to remove the second last tooth from the piston, I recommend an Ms110 or Ms120 as it returns the piston faster
* 1ea.- Modify Stainless Steel Shims - stainless is good
* 1ea.- King Arms 8mm Bearing Bushings - every set of bearing bushings I have used has had a blow out, even two sets of SystemA bearings (not cheap area 1000 stuff either.) Stick with solid bushings, King Arms are great
* 1ea.- Modify Air Seal Nozzle - SIG Series - Modify or Prometheus, two best in my experience
* 1ea.- Modify Enhanced Tappet - V3 - don't know of anything wrong with them but have never used them. I have had good experiences with Guarder and King Arms first hand

I would probably go with a 7mm solid bushing mechbox shell as there are no 8mm solid bushings available, larger area means less likely to crack between holes but its not that much of a risk in a gun under 450fps anyway. Remember that shimming needs to be PERFECT if its a really fast setup, triple check those shims. For really high speed you can toss in a SystemA Magnum motor and a large 9.6V battery or maybe even an 11.1V LiPo though then your ROF is getting dangerously high, as in cataclysmic failure high.

I also recommend rewiring the mechbox with 14awg wire to get the maximum amperage through put.

[Rotting]

Regarding the part where you say to remove the second tooth, I'm advised to put a tappet delay plate (Believe that's what it was called?) In to cause more of a, well, delay. If that is put in there, is that going to effect the performance of the spring? Since what I know right now, a stronger spring is going to screw something up harcore :\

Also, all I can find are Modify 7mm Tempered Steel Bushings. Pretty sure those are solid ones. Can't find anything by King Arms that is directly accessible for the time being. I don't plan on upgrading tot he 11.1V LiPo battery, though, since I hear it does reverse-miracles to the inners . I already have a SystemA M-M-HS Motor ready and waiting to get installed, since the magnum was just way too pricey for me.

Also, the 300mm-450mm cylinder is meant for a barrel of that length. My problem is that I'm using a 247mm barrel, as a cylinder of appropriate length isn't accessible. how much am I risking by going for the 300mm-450mm? If I'm better off waiting for an oversea order on it, then I guess I'd better wait.

[bruce]

The Modify S100 spring is perfectly good for High Speed gears. You shouldn't go to anything stronger. HS gears are not designed for stronger springs.

It is not the speed of the returning piston that causes stripped pistons but the mis-match of springs and gear sets.

Removing the second tooth on the piston is a preventative measure to avoid the sector gear from catching the piston at the wrong tooth.

If you are refering to a sector gear clip, this helps with the bb feeding by delaying the closure of the nozzle. More time that the nozzle stays open, better chance that the bb will go into the chamber.

I would go for a cylinder to match my inner barrel especially if you're running HS gears. You can't go wrong with Systema or Prometheus.

[LUTNIT]

In my highspeed setups I can't run below an Ms110 or the piston strips, right in the middle then it starts half stroking because of it, excess teeth eat the back half of the piston over the next few shots. Most highspeed gear sets are rated for up to Ms110, I have run them for thousands of rounds with Ms120's with no visible wear but stripped a set trying to run an Ms130.

I have actually had terrible experience with SystemA cylinders and cylinder heads, I find they leak like crazy. I have never had Guarder or Modify fail me (both double o-ring cylinder heads) but have never tried Prometheus.

Bruce, you mention the mismatch of pistons and springs that causes stripped pistons but then you mention removing the second last tooth to prevent the sector gear from catching the wrong tooth. It catches the second or third last tooth because the piston has not returned to the forward position yet, thus not returning fast enough.

I totally forgot about sector gear clips. I use them in all my guns, and they let me run midcaps with up to ~35 rounds/second, without it you can only run lows and highs.

[Rotting]

Already upgraded with an inner barrel. Using a Python Tightbore 6.03mm by MadBull. Hopefully that doesn't cause a huge problem with the cylinder head, since I knwo mixing up your equipment with other manufacturers can sometimes cause minor, inheretly big pain in the ass, kinds of situations

:\

[bruce]

What I said was a mismatch of springs and gears. As an example, if you take a normal ratio gearset and pair it with a strong spring, the build up of energy on the motor is huge because you're forcing the gears to pull the piston back. As the piston is release, all that energy is transfered to the sector gear which makes it spin faster. This causes the sector gear to catch the wrong gear before the piston is back to the starting position. Using a stronger spring to move the piston faster only causes greater pressure to turn the gear which leads back to more build up of energy on the motor.

This explaination is from the Systema manual of selecting proper parts for your upgrades.

Removing the second tooth can help also to prevent damage to the pistons but I think the main reason to trim the tooth was the interferance between tooth and sector gear from the start.

Everybody will have a different results depending on what other factors are involved. Manufacturering tolerances, battery setups, cylinders used.....

[LUTNIT]

This reminds me of comments from the guy that CNC's those insane gear sets down in the US, like the dual sector gears with short stroke teeth on both sides. He says the initial start up with a highspeed setup actually requires more torque than speed because you are trying to wind the spring back so much faster.

As for battery setups...dual parallel 9.6V packs with 14awg wire is awesome